There are many forms of pyrography or woodburning art.

Some use stencils, tracing, projectors or patterns. While anyone can do pyrography, not everyone can do freehand original work. Original freehand pyrography is a technique where no forms of aid are used in creating the base design and a true work of art.

Using a photograph or other image to look at and get ideas from or using it to get that added contrast or depth that you need for your realistic look is one thing. Tracing it is another.

In my opinion tracing your pattern from another source is not original freehand pyrography art. And can be seen as misleading. If you choose to use this form then you should NOT use the wording "original freehand" in your title or description.

Though it does take talent to woodburn, no matter how you do your basic design. Only freehand work should be concidered "original". Freehand work is much more difficult and is concidered "one of a kind" art. 

Using colored pencils, pastel chalk or oil crayons can be useful to cover or mask any mistakes made by burning too deep or to much. These are also useful for enhancing the project. A little spalsh of color when the burning is finished to add that little bit of pizzaz or depth to the finish project. A touch of green added to the tree leaves. or a dusting of brick red added to the old barn and gray to the roof  just to give it a hint of color, Can make a beautiful finish to a work of art.

An exacto knife is another useful tool for aiding in that "oops" I burned just a little too far or too deep. You can use the tip of the blade to chip or flake the charred area back to raw wood. Just take care not to slice or gouge your wood with the blade.

Sanding with fine or extra fine sand paper is another fix, take care to always sand in the direction of the grain in your wood. If you cross sand you will have tiny lines that show when you put your finish on your project. I always use exterior Polyeurothane to finish and protect my projects. Keep in mind that this will darken your work somewhat. But the outcome is well worth it.

Though it is recommended by many "not" to use hard woods or grainy, sappy woods, I prefer them.

I use cedar, oak, maple, cherry or other hard woods for my burning. All freehand penciling to get my base image. Then I start the burning process. No paints, chalks or colored pencils are used unless it is stated. All original designs, though I may look at other images to get depth or contrasting ideas.

Get a good pair of magnifying glasses, a nice bright non glaring lamp, comfortable chair at a resonably comfortable table or work bench area. Get a variety of burning tips to play with and some smooth scrap wood to start with. fine sand paper, a pencil with an eraser, carbon paper if you wish to trace your image, any coloring book can offer a wide array of praticing ideas, a pair of flat needle nose pliers for removing hot tips and a metal saucer to place hot tips for cooling. an exacto knife with sharp blade.

Make sure when you purchase your pyrography pen it has a cool touch handle. Always take care not to touch the tip while it is hot, it will burn you to a crisp upon contact.  Never place your hot pen tips on paper or other flamable material, keep all flamable materials clear of your work space and DO NOT try to cool your tips in water or any other liquid, let them air cool naturally.

Pyrography can be an enjoyable experience if caution is used.

Here are some examples of my work. The two bar stolls were done with a classic pen type woodburner,

the others were done with an optima pyrographic tool. These were done on various wood types. Mostly Maple and Oak, the larger chickadee was done on Birch.