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If you buy a lift kit of any kind be prepared to start spending lots of
money on axles and or cv joints. I have been in the cv axle business
for over 20 years and the problem is when you lift the bike several
things can happen:
1. You increase the distance between the differential and the wheel hub: The inner cv joint in most cases is made to move in and out only about 3/4" as the suspension goes up and down. When you increase the distance you bring the ball, cage & race further out in the inner cv joint housing. This will cause them to hit against the "c" clip that is there to keep the joint from coming apart during shipping or while installation or removal. THIS WILL CAUSE SOMETHING TO GIVE!
2. You increase the angle of operation:
a)This will cause the shaft to rub against the rim of the inner cv joint. You'll know this has happened when you hear the clicking as it passes each of the six ball tracks. Or if you remove the joint you'll see that the shaft will have scaring where the joint had been rubbing. This will also show signs on the rim of the inner joint and in most cases will literally crimp the clip into the grove that it rest in and you'll have to chisel it out to remove the inner joint from the shaft. (this is why we ask that you send the inner cv joint back when making a warranty claim)
b) When the a-arm drops down (i.e. while the bike leaves the ground). The inner cage is cocked at a very steep angle. Then when you land back on the ground with a hard force the ball, cage and race need to slide back into the inner cv joint cup. However, with the cage (the part that has 6 windows that the balls ride in) is at this extreme angle it will cause the joint to bind. Then when the shaft comes in it's equivalent to breaking a twig over your knee. I'd recommend not lifting the vehicle and spend your time and money riding instead of fixing your ride.
If you have any questions or concerns you can email me at danny@thecvman.com or call 1-800-338-2326 M-F 8-6 or Sat. 9-3 e.s.t.. I look forward to hearing from you.
Thank you,
Danny Walburn
President
CV Restoration, LLC
Jessup, MD
1. You increase the distance between the differential and the wheel hub: The inner cv joint in most cases is made to move in and out only about 3/4" as the suspension goes up and down. When you increase the distance you bring the ball, cage & race further out in the inner cv joint housing. This will cause them to hit against the "c" clip that is there to keep the joint from coming apart during shipping or while installation or removal. THIS WILL CAUSE SOMETHING TO GIVE!
2. You increase the angle of operation:
a)This will cause the shaft to rub against the rim of the inner cv joint. You'll know this has happened when you hear the clicking as it passes each of the six ball tracks. Or if you remove the joint you'll see that the shaft will have scaring where the joint had been rubbing. This will also show signs on the rim of the inner joint and in most cases will literally crimp the clip into the grove that it rest in and you'll have to chisel it out to remove the inner joint from the shaft. (this is why we ask that you send the inner cv joint back when making a warranty claim)
b) When the a-arm drops down (i.e. while the bike leaves the ground). The inner cage is cocked at a very steep angle. Then when you land back on the ground with a hard force the ball, cage and race need to slide back into the inner cv joint cup. However, with the cage (the part that has 6 windows that the balls ride in) is at this extreme angle it will cause the joint to bind. Then when the shaft comes in it's equivalent to breaking a twig over your knee. I'd recommend not lifting the vehicle and spend your time and money riding instead of fixing your ride.
If you have any questions or concerns you can email me at danny@thecvman.com or call 1-800-338-2326 M-F 8-6 or Sat. 9-3 e.s.t.. I look forward to hearing from you.
Thank you,
Danny Walburn
President
CV Restoration, LLC
Jessup, MD
Guide created: 09/02/09 (updated 11/12/09)
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