Whew, you're going to buy a used car on-line. That's a big step to take, but if done right, it can bring big rewards. However, if it's done wrong, it can bring trouble like most have never known. So, let's look at some steps that just might save you some problems in your search for the perfect used car...

First, does the seller have the right to sell the vehicle? I know that sounds strange, but you would be amazed how many vehicles are placed for sale by people who do not own them. Some are scams or cons and they want your deposit money and you will never see a vehicle. Not all are outright scams, either. Some are selling them for other people, for family members or relatives. The problems start when the owner decides they don't want to relinquish the vehicle or title to you after you have paid the "seller." So, check whether the seller actually owns the vehicle.

Check whether the title is free and clear. If the bank or finance company is owed money, you need to determine how it will be paid off. Never give the total amount to a person who says they will pay the vehicle off! If you're financing the vehicle, your lender will handle the details for you, but if you're paying cash, the smart thing is to determine the exact payoff, and have a check made out to the bank that holds the title and one for the residual to the seller. In that manner you are assured the vehicle is truly paid off. Even some car dealers have been playing the non-payoff game recently, taking vehicles in trade and never paying them off, while selling them to other people. The original owners now have two loans to pay for but only one car, if any!

Is it really what you want? Or is it red and shiny and just beautiful or the engine makes a great sound of power so it's a "gotta have it" moment? Resist the temptation to impulse buy without doing your research. And remember when you buy a newer vehicle with warranty remaining, any modifications that have been made that are not factory authorized can void the warranty. Then you are stuck with the repair bills. And, no, Moss-Magnuson doesn't apply if you override the speed limiter or change gears or tranny pressure valving, etc.

If someone says they bought it brand new, have them provide you with a copy of the original title showing the Vehicle Identification Number. (VIN) The title should show them as the first titled owner and the word NEW on the title. Some cars are damaged in transit by the vehicle manufacturer, repaired and sold with virtually no mileage. However, they are sold as used cars and not new. Just a tip for the wary.

You should also be aware of State Laws in the locality where you are going to purchase a vehicle, or where the vehicle is coming from. In Oregon, for example, a total loss equates to "a vehicle that has sustained damage that is not covered by insurance and the estimated cost to repair the vehicle is equal to at least 80% of the retail market value prior to the damage." So a car that was damaged to 75% would not be considered a total for all practical purposes.

For your peace of mind, subscribe to CarFax when you're looking at vehicles and get the unlimited subscription. That way you get to check the entire history of numerous vehicles you might be interested in, and see the mileage at state inspections or smog checks, any accidents reported.

(If you are considering a used police or government vehicle, please read my guides on Used Police Cars and Used Government & Police Vehicles before you buy. A short read could save you tons of headaches later and it's all free right here on eBay! Be aware that most accidents with police and municipal vehicles are NOT reported outside the governmental entity, as very few agencies run vehicle collisions resulting in vehicle damage only through any insurance company. This means you won't find the accident damage in CarFax or anywhere else.).

Look at the title to assure it's not a salvage title. See who the owner was and how many times it's been sold. Also, look carefully for rust on any interior parts of the vehicle, especially for vehicles in "rust-free' markets, such as the southwest. Rust can be a sign of a flood damage vehicle, or one that has been in climates other than the one you are buying it from. Rust also can be a sign of a repaired vehicle that sat in weather conditions waiting to be repaired. You'd be surprised how fast exposed metal rusts. Look at body side molding strip placement; strange body side molding configurations almost always means a repaint following an accident. Or, it can mean that Crown Victoria you're looking at was a police car in its' former life. Or both!  Again, read my guides and find out more. 

Now, let's look at the mileage. A car with over 100,000 miles might not be a bad car, but it all depends on the age of the car and how the mileage was put on. A city car that spends most of its' life in slow speed traffic to rack up that mileage in a few years has probably had a pretty hard life. Also consider all the time sitting in traffic and idling that is NOT on the odometer. A car that has mostly highway miles can have less wear, depending on how it was driven. Pedal to the floor starts, frequent hard braking and lots of abuse equate to a vehicle that has not had an easy life. Mileage is just one part of the equation in factoring a cars life.

The fact that the vehicle sees "regular" maintenance may or may not have a bearing on the quality of the car. Regular maintenance may be oil changes and lubes on a set schedule, and replacement of items as they wear out. Nothing great about that! It all depends on whether parts are replaced due to a set schedule, such as belts at a particular mileage, or simply waiting for the part to fail. That doesn't mean it has to be a hard driven vehicle to have lots go wrong, either. I had one brand new car years ago that was in the shop weekly, and it was a real junk. Everything that could go wrong did, and parts including flywheels, starters, transmissions, rear ends, valves, brakes, master cylinders, power steering pumps, etc. were replaced one after the other. Did the buyer get a good car after we replaced all those parts and then were through with it? I'd guess not, since it was what I would consider a "lemon" from the start. Yet if you had a list of replacement parts and services, you could believe the vehicle was almost "renewed" and a good deal. It's still a case of "caveat emptor" which means Buyer Beware! I do have to say that was one of a kind, and with the exception of one other vehicle with many transmission problems, all have been relatively good vehicles.

Did the former owner have pets in the car?  Is that something you can handle? Also, was it a smoking vehicle? Unless you're willing to have it professionally deodorized, a vehicle that has been smoked in will smell like stale smoke forever. All the Fabreze and Glade air freshener won't get rid of the odor completely; it will come back again and again.

If you decide on an extended warranty, be a wise buyer and look at what's available. Aftermarket warranties range from good to awful, so choose carefully and see what's being covered. Some exclude a lot of items and others exclude little. Do your research and remember you usually get what you pay for.

Beware of vehicles that are sold as having damage that is "easily" fixed. If it's easily fixed, then why isn't the seller fixing it, and then selling the repaired car?

Finally, I can't stress the "no accident" issue enough. Do your homework, have the car inspected throughly by a knowledgeable mechanic and/or body shop before you finalize the deal if you even suspect there could have been an accident in the history. I've looked at a number of vehicles, that show as clean through the registries, that I know have been in wrecks, some severe. They just do not show up because they do not get reported to the insurance companies, so they won't be reported to CarFax or anyone else. Also, remember that records on repairs by a dealer on a "damaged in transit" vehicle may or may not be available. It depends on who did the repairs. Ask the dealer for a print-out on the repair, since if it was paid by Ford, there will be a record of the exact damage, parts used in the repair, the time charged for the repair, if not a dollar cost, and the date the repair was done as well as the name of the dealer or dealer authorized facility doing the repair. I've personally seen a number of these repair orders and know they should be available.

Some cars are listed on eBay, and then reappear again some months later with an entirely different story and frequently by an entirely new seller. I've checked the VIN on several and find they are indeed the same cars, and that the story does not fit the original story or vice-versa.  Again, it's buyer beware.

Be safe and enjoy your search for the perfect used car!