So you wanna buy a Kawasaki KZ650? Smart choice. In my opinion the best middle weight sportbike of the era; but I may be a little biased...

The 650 offers 750cc performance while offering the size and handling of a 500.  Plus its derived from the legendary Z1.  Powerful, sporty, comfortable, reliable and extremely good looking, so what's not to like?  Ok, braking could be better but that's easily remedied with pad, fluid and better tires. There's aftermarket solutions as well...

Manufactured from 1976-1981 there were some CHANGES ALONG THE WAY...

1976-1977 B1: offered in red or emerald green with a wire wheels and single front disc brake with the caliper mounted fore of the fork leg. Twin front discs optional.

1978 B2: Rubber mounted front pegs. Front caliper moved back of the fork leg; master cylinder changed from round to triangular. the charging system went from 2 phase to 3 phase. Regulator & rectifier combined as a single unit. Twin front discs optional.

1978 Custom (C2): Offered in metallic silver. Alloy wheels replace wire wheels, triple disc brakes standard.

1980 F1: If the KZ650 C had a baby with a KZ650 B; the F1 would be the result. Twin front discs but a step back with drums in the rear. Offered in blue, red or green.

1981 F2: The biggest changes are found here. Electronic ignition, black engine cases; new gauges; no kick start :(

FUN FACTS:

-Twin discs are not interchangeable with single disc models.

-KZ650 B1-B3 have same gauges as the KZ900 and have the same problem with rot.

-750 engines swap right in, or the 650 can easily be bored out to accept 750 slugs.

-On B1 models, don't fire up the motor while the bike is resting on the side stand. The Carbs will flood.

-Camshafts from F models won't work in B-C models cuz the cam chain is different.

-Service items (brake rebuild kits, oil/air filters, etc.) are readily available

-Honda CB750 owners will cry when you fly by them and out handle them in the twisties.

WATCH OUT FOR:

-Bad chrome. Almost impossible to find and extremely expensive when you do.

-Cam chain clatter. Some rattle at start up is normal however.

-Beating on the bike when not warmed up can lead to wear on the primary chain.

-The rear fenders tend to rot and they are impossible to find new.

-Clutch abuse leads to rivets holding the clutch basket to wear out. You'll need to replace the entire clutch basket.

-Starter motor clutch is weak.

SOME TIPS:

-Change oil at recomended service intervals unless you want bottom end problems.

-Top end is robust and lasts long once valves are properly shimmed.

-Buy vintage clothing. It won't do anything for the bike, but I sell vintage clothing so it helps me alot.