This is a basic guide on some of the changes you can make at the track to try and dial in your chassis. All of these changes should be used only

after you have your basic set-up which includes setting toe end, stagger, camber and weight percentages. These basic set-up adjustments should

be done at home during the week. Your chassis manufacturer should provide you with a set-up starting point. In time this starting point may change

according to what works best for your driving style, different tracks and different track conditions.

If Loose on Entry

1. Reduce air in RR
2. Change to a smaller LF
3. Change to a harder RF
4. Decrease LF camber
5. Add cross weight
6. Decrease front weight
7. Decrease rear stagger

If Loose on Exit

1. Increase RF camber
2. Change to a softer tire on LR
3. Move LR in
4. Increase cross weight
5. Decrease rear stagger

If Chassis Pushes on Entry

1. Change to a softer RF tire
2. Change to a larger LF
3. Increase rear stagger
4. Lower RF air pressure
5. Increase LF camber
6. Move LR out

If Chassis Pushes on Exit

1. Decrease RF camber
2. Reduce cross weight
3. Move LR out
4. Chage to a harder tire on LR
5. Increase rear stagger
6. Reduce front stagger
7. Increase front weight

If Chassis is Binding

1. Increase front and rear stagger
2. Change to harder tires.
3. Raise air pressure
4. Decrease cross weight
5. Increase rear weight
6. Move RR out

4 Wheel Drift

1. Lower air pressures
2. Move RR in
3. Change to softer tires
4. Decrease left weight
5. Raise VCG (raise seat)

There are many handy tools and gauges made to help racers with set-up of their racing go kart chassis. Most of these, such as Longacre Caster/Camber Gauges,

Longacre Computerscales, Scale Stand, Accutoe Pro Toe Gauge, Longacre Air Gauges, Longacre Durometer and Tire Sizer are available at most kart

shops, including my racing go kart shop, Smokin Joe Racing