Hey we all want to look cool and we all (mostly) want to ride safe, your gear is a vital part of a safe riding experience. I know and I am sure many of you know someone who gets away year after year with wearing sub-standard equipment. There is a saying that God protects fools and children and the way I've seen some ride I'd tend to agree. I am not the lucky guy, I need all the protection I can get because stuff happens; having said that here are some things to keep in mind :

Gloves:   Very important! when you fall to the ground after a slip or trip what is you first reaction...yes stick out your HANDS. At walking speed this leaves a minor scrape or two, at freeway speeds this removes the meat from your palm or knuckle. When choosing your gloves look for features in this order (1.) Fit  (2.) Function  (3.) Style  If gloves do not fit correctly they will not function correctly and looking cool is the last thing you need at 40mph flying through the air.

A useful glove should be layered with 2 or more layers of protection (extra leather, Kevlar, Aramid, Kangaroo. etc.) on the palm the stiching should be reinforced or of a friction resistant material such as Kevlar. There are usually tags on the inside and out telling you the construction of the shell and the lining if any. Do not worry about what everybody else is buying for the sake of brand but look at popular brands for the features and fit unique to the brand. This may provide you with the reasons these are so popular to some types of riders. There will also be cheaper brands with many, if not all of the same features but check construction and fit. A glove should fit well in the closed fist position since this is how your hand will relate to the controls of the bike. If you cannot make a fist without smashing your knuckles the glove is too tight. If on the other hand, it bunches up in the palm it is too loose. Leather gloves in particular should fit snug but not bind. Leather will stretch with normal use and hand oils will help the glove better form to your hand ( if the gloves are lined make sure the lining is what fits) . Gloves made of nylon or polyester must have hard armour (plastic caps) or be lined with Kevlar to properly protect against sliding on pavement. Fabric gloves also do not tend to stretch as much as leather but what little stretching they do they will do faster. Most leather gloves are not good for rain unless they are treated and specifically made for wet weather.

Ordering online is great however if at all possible try the glove you want on in person at a cycle store or dealership. I have spent much in shipping sending back "my size" because it did not fit, it is not even a "good deal" if it does not fit. Buy a glove to use for it's intended purpose; dirtbike gloves for dirt, street gloves for street, and mechanics gloves for working on your car. Get the idea? You wouldn't use a thick paper sack as a bullet proof vest would you? Sure it might be better than nothing , not much better. Price;  you can pay $120 and get a cool glove with minimal protection, you can spend $10 and get a cool glove. Most quality gloves come in around $60 but can be found on sale for as cheap as $30. If you pay $250 rest asured you have the best money can buy if you spend $10 expect at least that much protection out of them. Look around and shop wisely and don't be too cheap, you will gain a couple of trusted friends that will most likely get you out of a rough situation ok.

Jackets

There are many types of jackets some are just a body covering and others are purpose built. If you are giong to invest in something to protect your chest (and shoulders and spine and elbows) then look for the same types of things as mentioned in the gloves section above; Fit, Function, then Flair. Leather is by far the best protection for your skin GET IT WITH ARMOR in the shoulders elbows and spine areas. Leather is however hot in the summer. There is a type of leather that is perforated and this offers better air flow to cool you but is still hot setting still. Textile jackets come in two main types: woven fabric and mesh. The fabric is much the same as an expensive back-pack (rip-stop nylon or Cordura) only a little thicker. The mesh is a sort of net type material, kind of a cross between fishnet stockings and chainmail. Once again make sure it has armor and that there is some friction mitigation factor (i.e. Aramid or Kevlar) Jackets also come in many styles: touring, racing, casual street, endurance, off road, TT or motard, even rain suits.

FIT

Remember you are buying the jacket to protect you while riding. In most cases (ALL that I can think of) you are reaching forward toward the controls. Use this forward reach to judge the fit , act like you are sitting on your bike. When you are just wearing it in the "normal" position with arms down it should be long in the arms sort of starting to cover your thumb. A reach forward should bring the cuffs back to just behind your hand kind of resting on the wrist bones. When you reach forward the jacket should not raise up much at the waist (just a little bit) and the back musn't be tight and restrictive. Check to make sure it is not too big or loose and baloonish as this will catch the wind and push against you at freeway speeds wearing you out. Leather jackets do stretch but it takes years so the closer the fit now the better. Textile suprisingly does stretch a bit and within a few rides but once again do not hope for miracles.

PRICE

Well this ought to be quick. Leather is by far the most expensive but bargains are out there just check the quality, sales are a good thing watch for them. LEATHER $180-$700. TEXTILE is the next at about $100-$250 and last but not the least (especially in august) MESH $100-$180.

If this was helpful or enjoyable please vote.-THANK YOU