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So you've decided to buy an Audi, well this can be quite confusing as figuring out, what the best Harddrive or Video card upgrade is. I myself have owned 2 Audi A4's, both of which were slightly modified by me but came with alot of headaches. When choosing the older B5 Chassis Audi A4 1.8t's you need to be aware of some serious potential problems if they haven't been corrected or already repaired.
1: Most important if your are looking at a High mileage 1.8t Quattro or FWD car. Make sure the timingbelt tensioner / pulley and timing belt have been changed to the updated version. Audi/VW has had numerous lawsuits due to the timing belt tensioner and timing belt giving out at 69k miles to 95k miles (recommended change interval is 90k, but Audi has revised this to 75k miles). The problem lies in the design of the tensioner put on 96-99 AEB engine code Audi and Volkswagens. The tensioner has a bolt that is tightened but over time can become loose and basically throwing the timing off causing your pistons and valves (there are 20 of them) to come in contact. This can be a really expensive repair if you are not comfortable working on your own car and need a mechanic. The costs can range from $1500-5000 dollars depending on the garage or dealership you take it too (I ended up buying a remanufactured head). With my first 1998 Audi I had the tensioner go right at 86k miles, the car didn't explode but it did feel like I ran over tiny speedbumps and my engine was dead. Damage assessment was 19 bent valves and thankfully no damage to the pistons.
2:Be sure that the wheel bearings are in good shape and that the CV Boots are not torn as this can lead to wheel bearing problems and noises.
3: Make sure the past owner kept up with maintenance records, this usually shows someone has taken great car of the vehicle.
4:Be very wary of cars that have already been modified (This is also a big selling point with sellers). Sure, alot of Audiphiles will tell you the stock internals (pistons, conrods) are safe upto 300bhp(Usually 290 is safe), but with A4 1.8t's that have a chip are greatly reducing the stock turbo reliability by pushing more boost pressure , causing higher turbo/engine temperatures and possibly causing your ECU to shoot out a CEL or two. And if they don't change the oil or cycle the cars engine to normal operating temperature, they risk clogging the oil inlet line and "coking" the turbo.
5:Aftermarket radios are almost a must but becareful, the Audi alarm is tied into the radio and can easily be disabled if the radio is not installed correctly or by someone who doesn't know what they are doing. Leave installation to professionals.
6:Engine Coilpacks on some later and newer models have been known to just go out. These are mostly on the 2001-2003 1.8T engines. When you inspect the engine make sure you don't have H,J,G revision coilpacks as these are known to go out. These can be anywhere from $22-60 per unit
7:1997-1999.5 Ignition Amplifier/Power Output Stage control units are known to go out causing a rough idle. (mine went out at 63k miles). $150-$300 for the unit
8: Diverter/Bypass valves also fail with normal occurance and can be purchased from the dealer at a reasonable cost or you can upgrade to a Forge, Bailey or APR type aftermarket valve. $75-180
9: The turbo wastegate is also known to go out and has a ranging costs to replace since the are generally not sold seperate from the K03/K04 turbochargers.
Now on to the B6 chassis A4 1.8t.
With new body panels but basically the same chassis as the B5, there are known problems with this newer body style also.
1: For some reason these cars tend to have electrical problems ranging from the Dash to the window and sunroof switches. Ranging expensive costs for dealer to track down if they can.
2: The turbo oil inlet line has been known to become clogged and causing turbo failures (on 02-03 models) mainly due to irregular service intervals and or using non Synthetic based oils.
3: CoilPacks - Make sure you upgrade if you have H,J,G revision coilpacks. Same as above as these can be range from $22-60 per unit
I hope this hasn't deterred you from buying a great entry level Audi or VW. This Guide is meant only to warn you of potential problems, headaches and monetary costs involved. Its alot easier to have this knowledge knowing what your getting into. The price of these cars has dropped now since there are 2 newer body styles and I suggest not paying anymore than $5000-6800 since most cars at dealer auctions go for no more than $2-4000 if not less. Most private sellers will ask KBB/NADA which honestly has not caught up with the market and you can still see Audis priced $2-3000 more than what in my opinion should/will be fair market value.
1: Most important if your are looking at a High mileage 1.8t Quattro or FWD car. Make sure the timingbelt tensioner / pulley and timing belt have been changed to the updated version. Audi/VW has had numerous lawsuits due to the timing belt tensioner and timing belt giving out at 69k miles to 95k miles (recommended change interval is 90k, but Audi has revised this to 75k miles). The problem lies in the design of the tensioner put on 96-99 AEB engine code Audi and Volkswagens. The tensioner has a bolt that is tightened but over time can become loose and basically throwing the timing off causing your pistons and valves (there are 20 of them) to come in contact. This can be a really expensive repair if you are not comfortable working on your own car and need a mechanic. The costs can range from $1500-5000 dollars depending on the garage or dealership you take it too (I ended up buying a remanufactured head). With my first 1998 Audi I had the tensioner go right at 86k miles, the car didn't explode but it did feel like I ran over tiny speedbumps and my engine was dead. Damage assessment was 19 bent valves and thankfully no damage to the pistons.
2:Be sure that the wheel bearings are in good shape and that the CV Boots are not torn as this can lead to wheel bearing problems and noises.
3: Make sure the past owner kept up with maintenance records, this usually shows someone has taken great car of the vehicle.
4:Be very wary of cars that have already been modified (This is also a big selling point with sellers). Sure, alot of Audiphiles will tell you the stock internals (pistons, conrods) are safe upto 300bhp(Usually 290 is safe), but with A4 1.8t's that have a chip are greatly reducing the stock turbo reliability by pushing more boost pressure , causing higher turbo/engine temperatures and possibly causing your ECU to shoot out a CEL or two. And if they don't change the oil or cycle the cars engine to normal operating temperature, they risk clogging the oil inlet line and "coking" the turbo.
5:Aftermarket radios are almost a must but becareful, the Audi alarm is tied into the radio and can easily be disabled if the radio is not installed correctly or by someone who doesn't know what they are doing. Leave installation to professionals.
6:Engine Coilpacks on some later and newer models have been known to just go out. These are mostly on the 2001-2003 1.8T engines. When you inspect the engine make sure you don't have H,J,G revision coilpacks as these are known to go out. These can be anywhere from $22-60 per unit
7:1997-1999.5 Ignition Amplifier/Power Output Stage control units are known to go out causing a rough idle. (mine went out at 63k miles). $150-$300 for the unit
8: Diverter/Bypass valves also fail with normal occurance and can be purchased from the dealer at a reasonable cost or you can upgrade to a Forge, Bailey or APR type aftermarket valve. $75-180
9: The turbo wastegate is also known to go out and has a ranging costs to replace since the are generally not sold seperate from the K03/K04 turbochargers.
Now on to the B6 chassis A4 1.8t.
With new body panels but basically the same chassis as the B5, there are known problems with this newer body style also.
1: For some reason these cars tend to have electrical problems ranging from the Dash to the window and sunroof switches. Ranging expensive costs for dealer to track down if they can.
2: The turbo oil inlet line has been known to become clogged and causing turbo failures (on 02-03 models) mainly due to irregular service intervals and or using non Synthetic based oils.
3: CoilPacks - Make sure you upgrade if you have H,J,G revision coilpacks. Same as above as these can be range from $22-60 per unit
I hope this hasn't deterred you from buying a great entry level Audi or VW. This Guide is meant only to warn you of potential problems, headaches and monetary costs involved. Its alot easier to have this knowledge knowing what your getting into. The price of these cars has dropped now since there are 2 newer body styles and I suggest not paying anymore than $5000-6800 since most cars at dealer auctions go for no more than $2-4000 if not less. Most private sellers will ask KBB/NADA which honestly has not caught up with the market and you can still see Audis priced $2-3000 more than what in my opinion should/will be fair market value.
Guide created: 08/14/07 (updated 10/10/08)
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