The most misunderstood aspect of cap pistols for newcomers is the material from which the toy was fabricated. Cast iron is just that, iron. It is magnetic. A refrigerator or other magnet will be attracted to it. Since it is iron, it is subject to rust. All caps were corrosive, so rust is more of a problem when the gun has been cap fired. Instructions were to oil the toy after use. Most had an oil hole in the side which was labeled.    

     Cast iron is quite heavy when compared to other materials. Iron guns were usually nickel plated, giving a shiney silvery color. A few were made with brown or black finish, sometimes like paint but occasionally a chemical created rust which results in a brown uniform finish which may resemble an actual firearm.

     A second problem with cast iron is that it is brittle. Toys dropped on concrete frequently broke. Hammers were very prone to breaking from an accidental drop. Replacement hammers are being made for the most popular styles, but some collectors are not aware of replacements. It is a matter of preference whether one should buy a toy with a broken hammer which is original or a cosmetic replacement.

     Cast iron is the classic material. Some collectors collect only cast iron. If a seller has a gun which may be cast iron, the prospective buyer should ask for the magnet test.

     One cautionary word, light toys were made from pressed sheet metal because they were cheaper than cast iron. Sheet iron is also magnetic, but it is much lighter than cast iron. See the guide for SHEET METAL cap guns.

     The use of cast iron was being phased out by the late 1940's. Very few guns of the fifties were cast iron. Some series continued through the cast iron age into the die cast age with cap guns which were the same basic design and had identical names.  Hubley, for example produced Texan, Army 45, Champ and other guns in both materials. See the guide for DIE CAST.