First and formost allow me to briefly mention credentials. I could (and may) write a book about building a "parts" guitar.I often (allmost allways) build guitars made from ebay acquired parts.I never knew how much I didn't know till I built my first parts guitar-nearly 50 yrs. ago. This guide will be about finding a body.

Browsing thru ebay you will quickly note a vast differance in what people are willing to pay for a body. Some of this has to do with brand name. You've gotta believe what you're seeing inasmuch as what people will pay for Brand A. Here's why.Brand A is known for acceptable quality off the rack. That simple. To a certain extent a specific body style is played by Lone Wolfgnaw, ya know the lead player from "Atomic Lotus" and that will drive what some are willing to pay. Sometimes really good marketing ,vague descriptions, or outright lies will raise the price.

Because I understood what was going on with building I probably bought 6 bodies and 12 necks before I put 1 guitar together. Not that it couldn't have come sooner but I wanted it absolutely RIGHT. First, refering to chapter 2  I had no issues with Brand A and figured that since the seller usually can't or won't say how many pieces is in the Brand A knock off I figured since it would be locally sellable anyway I got the knockoff.Results were magnificent. Just remember a 1 pc. is better than a 2 pc. A 2 pc. is better than a 3pc. etc, etc.. Despite the fact  some guitar manufacturers sell what is optomistically called "laminate" bodys most are simply thrasch. In many manufacturing situations laminate does mean gluing  many  pieces of similar or dissimilar materials together. That dosen't cut it in gunstock building.In the home building industry this is called ply-wood.In the guitar industry I would say ply-wood is for beginners, whether budding musicians or builders.Unless you know you can't make an adequate attempt-steer clear of ply-wood. Ply-wood will because of its very manufacturing process show stress cracks at the neck pocket after time.It'll happen sooner given wide temperature or humidity variations.It has other issues too but I'm not writing the book here.

Now simply understand that a neck will have to be matched with the body. Is this body meant to be used with a trem. bridge? The match will have to be exact whatever the body. Estimating scale can be tricky.Simply stating a body takes a 25.5" scale isnt enough.Brand R Photon Blast Supreme body takes 25.5" scale with 24 frets but the heel stops at the 23rd fret. Brand A Warbler takes 25.5" 22 fret and the heel stpos on fret 22, But Brand A Agressive Warrior takes 25.5" 21 fret. Heel stops at 21 fret. Remember a 21 fret with a hangover fret will often work- depending on pickups and proper scale.,on a 21 fret body.Now a quik statement about bridges. Just because Hinkiey Manuf. says its bridge will work on the Warbler dosent mean it'll work on all variations of the Warbler . You know the Warbler Amer., the Warbler Mex., the Warbler Chinese. the Warbler Rt. 95, Etc.

I imagine I've muddied the waters some, but, if I let you know there is more to be considered than what Lone Wolfgnaw suggests; great. If you buy a book to get a better handle on the entire situation EXCELLANT! You'll then have less chance of the posting-I was cleaning out the closet... Good Luck.