White Gold Turning Yellow

     Have you ever purchased a white gold ring only to wear it for a few months and then notice it has a yellow hue?  Why does white gold turn yellow?  Why is it most of the older white gold rings do not change color?  These are common questions in recent years pertaining to white gold.

     To understand white gold is to first understand how it is created.  Gold does not come out of the ground white, rather, it is yellow.  To create white gold (or any other color for that matter) it MUST be mixed with other color metals, also called 'alloys'.  Using higher quality lighter metals produces white gold that will not change color.  For example:  platinum and palladium alloys will produce a white gold that will not turn yellow...it will turn grayish however.  Take a good look at one of your grandmother's white gold rings and I'll bet it is still as white as the day she purchased it. 

     The older white golds and more expensive white golds in today's market are alloyed with platinum and/or palladium.. then finished with rhodium.  A typical 18k white gold formula with palladium alloy might be, in parts per thousand: Gold 750, Silver 40, Copper 40, Palladium 170.  Due to the fact platinum and palladium are more expensive than cheaper typical alloy metals white gold is more expensive then yellow gold in some cases.  When the gold content lowers, such as 14K, the alloy content rises. 

Here are some basic gold formulas:

Color of Gold             Alloy Composition

Yellow Gold (22k)              Gold 75%, Silver 5%, Copper 2%, Zinc 1.33% 

Yellow Gold (18K)             Gold 75%, Silver 10-20%, Copper 5-15%

Red Gold (18K)                 Gold 75%, Copper 25%

Rose Gold (18K)               Gold 75%, Copper 22.25%, Silver 2.75%

Pink Gold (18K)                Gold 75%, Copper 20%, Silver 5%

White Gold (18K)              Gold 75%, Platinum or Palladium 25%

White Gold (18K)              Gold 75%, Palladium 10%, Nickel 10%, Zinc 5%

Gray-White Gold (18K)      Gold 75%, Iron 17%, Copper 8%

Soft Green Gold (18K)       Gold 75%, Silver 25%

Light Green Gold (18K)      Gold 75%, Copper 23%, Cadmium 2%

Green Gold (18K)              Gold 75%, Silver 20% Copper 5%

Deep Green Gold (18K)     Gold 75%, Silver 15%, Copper 6%, Cad 4%

Blue/White or Blue (18K)   Gold 75%, Iron 25%

Purple Gold (18K)             Gold 80%, Aluminum 20%              

     A typical 18K white gold containing nickle alloy might be, in parts per thousand: Gold 750, Copper 55, Nickel 145, Zinc 50.  The result is a white gold ring that turns yellowish over time (and a risk of dermatitis due to the nickel...and again if the gold content is lower (10K or 14K) and alloy is higher, this is a larger risk).  To avoid this during the initial sale of the jewelry the piece is usually 'dipped' in rhodium.  The rhodium dipping is for all intents and purposes actually 'plating'.

     The problem with this practice is the everyday consumer does not realize that this rhodium plating will, in time, wear off and leave behind white gold that is not so white anymore.  Many retailers have started to offer 'maintainence' programs (for an extra cost of course) which includes yearly rhodium dipping, as well as, prong checking/tightening.  If you have a piece of white gold jewelry that you would like to be brought back to 'new' white, most good jewelers will offer this service for a very reasonable price ($40-$75).

     The obvious loophole to this problem is to purchase either high quality jewelry or estate antique jewelry.  Your other option is to have your jewelry maintainenced by a reputable jeweler.  Of course, purchasing platinum is another alternative.  There are several 'finishing' sites on the internet that have discussion forums regarding this topic.  If this helped please check "YES"...thank you.... Tami