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What type of frame or mat should I buy for my picture?

by: framations( 280Feedback score is 100 to 499) Top 10000 Reviewer
34 out of 41 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 6414 times Tags: frame | mat | picture frame | poster frame | art


     Custom Framing can be a very overwhelming process for many people!You have a print and want a mat & frame... It seems so simple...that is until you get to the counter at the framing and matting store!  This guide will help you decide what type of framing and/or matting you will need for your picture, poster, art print, or canvas.

There are really only three types of framing:

  • Decorative Grade Framing & Matting
  • Conservation Grade Framing & Matting
  • Museum Grade Framing & Matting

Decorative Grade Framing & Matting consists of materials that contain some acid & iron content and either acrylic or glass that is not UV protectent.  In general, you will probably spend under $150.00 for decorative grade framing. 

Conservation Grade Framing & Matting consists of no acidic component touching the print. But there are components of the frame that do not touch the print that have acid & iron content. UV reducing acrylic is also used but it is a reduction in UV rays, not a 99.99% filter. Conservation framing will not stop the aging process, but it will slow it down dramatically. Depending on where you have the conservation framing done, your pricing will fall between $175.00 and $1,000.00. 

Museum Grade Framing & Matting consists of materials that contain zero acid content, zero iron content , and acrylic that is 99.99% UV filtering. In general, you will probably spend easily over $1,000.00 for museum grade framing.  

You may ask, then, how do I choose which grade of framing is right for my image?

This is a very personal decision, but here are a few questions to ask yourself. They may help you come to a decision.

  1. Is this an item that I want to look great on my walls for the next 5-15 years before I really begin to see the changes that light, humidity & acid content bring? If the answer is yes, you probably want decorative framing.
  2.  Is this an item I want to pass down to the next generation? If it is, do I want to spend 3-4 times more on framing it? If your answer is yes, you probably want to go with conservation grade framing and matting.
  3. Is this an item I want to appreciate in value? If it is, do I want to spend 3-4 times more on framing it? If the answer is yes, you probably want either conservation or museum grade framing. (Of course museum grade will keep it pristene for a longer time!)
  4. Is this an item I would want to pass down MANY generations? If it is, do I want to spend 10 times more on framing it? If your answer is yes, you probably want to go with Museum grade framing.

The best way actually to preserve a paper item is NOT to frame it, but to store it in a dark, non acidic, stable, temperate environment. Light, humidity, & environment will eventually take it's toll. The process can be slowed down, though.

Now that you have decided what type of framing you want, here are some other things to consider.

  • Mounting: When you take your print into a frame shop for matting &/or framing, your print will probably be mounted. Mounting is basically a nice fancy term for how your print is attached to the backing. In the decorative process, generally your print or poster is glued to the backing board and pressed. This is often a permanent process.So if you ever want to take the image out of the frame, be sure to ask the framer NOT to wet mount your print.Wet mounting, though, looks the best. It will greatly reduce the dimples, dings,  & creases and the print will generally lie perfectly smooth.    In the conservation process, generally your print is hinge mounted. Basically, the print is attached using small amounts of acid free framer's tape. This is generally removable. Any imperfections though, will still be seen and the print my wave over time from gravity.   In the Museum Process, your image is generally mounted without the use of any adhesives. Acid free corners are the most commonly used items in this process. 
  • Acrylic or Glass: There are pros and cons to both. Both glass & acrylic can be found in both decorative and conservation grade. But you will normally never see glass used in the museum process. Glass shatters on impact, damaging the artwork and possibly harming anyone in the impact path. But it is easy to care for (just windex & a paper towel). It is also weighs more, so be careful when hanging and use the appropriate hardware for hanging. Acrylic does not shatter. (With a hard enough impact, It will crack, but damage to the artwork is minimal) That is why it is prefered for safety reasons. It is great to hang above a bed, sofa or other high traffic areas. We recommend acrylic for homes with pets and children. It is also much lighter and easier to hang. You normally will not need special hanging hardware. Acrylic does scratch though. Be careful when handling and cleaning. Never use cleaners with alcohol or ammonia ingredients (this means NO WINDEX OR GLASS CLEANER!). Use a soft cotton cloth and an acrylic cleaner such as Novus One.
  • Hanging Hardware: Should you use a wire or double hooks to hang your framed art? Most people find it easiest to hang their art from a wire, but you will spend more time straightening your art on the wall everytime someone walks heavily nearby! But the true downside to using a wire for hanging is that it can cause your frame to warp. You see, hung on a wire, the frame is really hanging on one pressure point. The sides are being pulled inward and over time the frame may bow outward from the wall. This is especially true with larger sizes or polystyrene (composite plastic) frames. Woods and metals generally are not affected much by hanging from a wire. Double hooks take a few minutes longer to hang...but it is a lifetime of not having to straighten your frame on the wall and it is much better for the overall lifespan of the frame. Hung on double hooks, the pressure is alleviated & you should not experience any warping or bowing (even on the polystyrenes). The trick to hanging on double hooks is to find the center of each hook, dab with a little bit of toothpaste & press the frame against the wall. When you remove the frame the toothpaste will leave a spot where you can drive your nails!   
  • Frame Material : You will usually have a choice between wood, metal or polystyrene. Woods generally are the heaviest & most expensive, then metals, then polystyrenes which are very light and inexpensive. If you are on a budget, Polystryrenes can provide the look of a wood or metal without the hefty pricetag.Most people cannot tell the difference until they pick it up (because they are lighter)!

Tips When Shopping:

  • Ask the clerk about the types of materials being used in your framing and whether the quote you are receiving is for decorative, conservation, or museum quality framing.
  • Ask about how the print is mounted!
  • If your clerk doesn't seem very knowledgeable....ask for someone else to help you!
  • If you feel pressured....leave and come back later! Or find a store that does not pressure you to buy. Framing and matting is an extension of the art. Make it your own expression.....not someone elses. You are the one viewing your art the most often...therefor, it should look great to you!

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Guide ID: 10000000000028413Guide created: 10/15/05 (updated 01/03/09)

 
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