Buying a vintage watch

Bidding on an old mechanically delicate device like a vintage watch can be a shot in the dark. Don't trust the photos. Though they're a good starting place, they don't tell the story accurately. By asking some straightforward, common sense questions, you can avoid committing to buy an inferior piece. These notes apply mainly to wind up watches, but most of the same rules apply to quartz watches as well.

1. How's the face, how's the case? Ask the seller. A mint dial can be masked by a scratched crystal, a simple thing to have replaced. A great dial and accurately running movement housed within a worn, bent, beat up case may not be worth your time, even though the watch is mechanically sound.

2.Non-running watches can be a good deal if you have some idea of what you're getting. Ask these questions: Does the watch run at all? Does the watch run, even for a few seconds, when the watch is gently shaken from side to side? Is the watch wound tight? Are there signs of rust or excessive dirt inside the movement or dial? Are there signs of damage from the case having been repeatedly opened?

A watch that ticks even for a few seconds is a good sign that everything's in place and intact, though not totally conclusive. A watch wound up tight is a good sign in that it means the mainspring is probably intact. However, unless the watch ticks a little bit, it could mean that the balance shaft or balance spring is damaged, an expensive specialty repair. A watch marked "shock protected" or "Incabloc" or "KIF" is desirable - it means the balance wheel is designed with shock protection, and is statistically much less likely to have sustained balance shaft damage than a non-protected movement.

Typical prices to clean, time and oil a basic watch, including crystal replacement, run to about $100 and up. Keep that in mind when bidding. Even a watch in good cosmetic, running condition should get a basic clean/time/oil every couple years to avoid problems and wear, so be aware of this ongoing cost to owning and wearing a vintage watch.

I restore and service vintage watches for my own collection, as well as a limited number of customers. If you have an inquiry or question, please contact me. I love to talk about old watches.