By Hannah Sivak, PhD
Biochemist,
Skin Actives Scientific LLC

The Food and Drug Administration regulates cosmetics. The ingredient list has to follow certain rules so that the consumer will know exactly what is in the product. So I was intrigued when I read that the Jan Marini product to make eyelashes grow contained "eyelash growth factor", something that does not exist. I had to assume that the people at Jan Marini were ignorant of FDA rules and of biochemistry and really meant to say "keratinocyte growth factor", a small protein that by attaching itself to a receptor in keratinocytes initiates a series of biochemical events that results in increasing hair growth. As eyelashes are hairs, it should work for eyelashes too.

It seems that I was wrong. Not about Jan Marini's people not knowing FDA rules and/or biochemistry but about how far out they were: rumors persisted until Jan Marini accepted that her product contained a chemical whose structure is similar to prostaglandins, molecules that are very powerful.  The chemical is now listed on the product. Although the name is truncated in the list, i.e. 7-(3, 5 Dihydroxy-2-(3-hydroxy-4-(3-(triflormethyl)phenoxy)-1-butenyl)cyclopentyl)-N-ethyl, (1R-(alpha(z), 2beta(1E,3R)3alpha, 5alpha)5-Heptenoic acid,  it is complete enough to see that it is a prostaglandin analog.

Prostaglandin analogs (more precisely, Prostaglandin F receptor agonists) are powerful chemicals and they can help people with glaucoma, an illness that increases the pressure inside the eye. Because these chemicals are powerful and their side effects significant, thorough testing has to be done before their use by people is allowed. Moreover, a doctor has to supervise their use and this is why the chemicals that are on the market are prescription medications. Names of some prostaglandin analogs that are prescription medicines for glaucoma include Travatan, Latanoprost and Rescula.  Side effects include change in eye color, hyperpigmentation of the eye lid skin, stomach cramps, etc.

Why does it matter whether a skin care products manufacturer knows chemistry and biochemistry?  Because you need to know a lot of science to make the right decisions, or you may end up making very wrong ones. Apparently, Jan Marini (not a chemist!!!) thought that by changing slightly the chemical structure of the glaucoma medication she would be O.K.. But she isn't. Why?  A similar chemical is likely to have similar side effects plus other, unknown ones.

That some women desperately want their eyelashes to be longer is demonstrated by the fact that when the secret was revealed, instead of avoiding a chemical that would change pressure inside the eye plus who knows what else, the sales went through the roof.

But another problem with people not knowing biochemistry is that there was never a need to use a dangerous chemical in the first place! People get even better results on eyelashes (and eye brows) by using ingredients that work without side effects! Why use a prescription medicine disguised as an eyelash growth factor when a true growth factor, KGF, exists, (identical to that we have in our bodies but declines with age)????!!!!

That is the price of ignorance. I am sure Jan Marini made lots of profit out of a product sold at more than $100, but what if eye color of her clients start to change?

The take home message is: pay attention to the ingredient lists. And demand that the people deciding what you put on your face know some science.

Update 11/18/07
The FDA has finally recalled the Jan Marini product. 

"At the request of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, U.S. Marshals seized today 12,682 applicator tubes of Age Intervention Eyelash, a product that may, in some users, lead to decreased vision. Authorities said the sales value of the seized tubes is approximately $2 million.

Age Intervention Eyelash is sold and distributed by Jan Marini Skin Research, Inc., of San Jose, Calif.

The FDA considers Age Intervention Eyelash to be an unapproved and misbranded drug because Jan Marini Skin Research has promoted the product to increase eyelash growth. Before a new drug product may be legally marketed, it must be shown to be safe and effective, and approved by FDA. The agency takes seriously its responsibility to protect Americans from unapproved drugs.

FDA also considers the seized Age Intervention Eyelash to be an adulterated cosmetic. The product contains bimatoprost, an active ingredient in an FDA-approved drug to treat elevated intraocular pressure (elevated pressure inside the eye).

For patients using the prescription drug, using the Age Intervention Eyelash in addition to the drug may increase the risk of optic nerve damage because the extra dose of bimatoprost may decrease the prescription drug's effectiveness. Damage to the optic nerve may lead to decreased vision and possibly blindness.

In addition, use of Age Intervention Eyelash may cause other adverse effects in certain people due to the bimatoprost, including macular edema (swelling of the retina) and uveitis (inflammation in the eye), which may lead to decreased vision.

The U.S. Attorney's Office for the Northern District of California filed the complaint requesting the seizure, and coordinated with the FDA. The California Department of Public Health‘s Food and Drug Branch had previously embargoed the seized products at the San Jose facility. Jan Marini Skin Research has notified FDA that the company ceased manufacturing and shipping any Age Intervention Eyelash product containing bimatoprost last year.

The FDA recommends that consumers, dermatologists, and estheticians who may still have Age Intervention Eyelash discontinue using it and discard any remaining product. FDA also recommends that consumers consult their health care provider if they have experienced any adverse events that they suspect are related to the product's use."

NOTE added 9/20/08
Other companies are adding prostaglandin analogs to their eyelash products and some are NOT including it in the ingredient list! This is the case for neuLash. This is even worse than the Jan Marini situation because the consumer has no idea that she is using a prescription medicine with serious side effects.