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You have mastered the use of your "regular", multi stitch, button holing, zigzagging, straight stitching sewing machine and are ready for your next BIG step. But just what is this strange contraption that uses loopers instead of bobbins and has more threads than you can possibly need? First let's understand the lingo... The words overlock and serger are generally used to describe the same machine. The word overlock is the stitch type that the serger produces. The overlock stitch is also referred to as a "merrow" in professional circles, named for Joseph Merrow, the inventor of the first machine of its kind. The two terms though are commonly interchanged to mean the same thing, which is.... a machine that trims the edge of a piece of fabric before encasing it in thread. This can be used to keep a single ply from frazzling or to actually make a seam. The overlock machines come with 2,3,4 or 5 threads. The general rule of thumb is that the more threads the tighter the stitch. The two and three thread versions are made to overcast the edge of a single ply of fabric. You would use this type of stitching before folding the edge back to sew a traditional hem. If you are familiar with baby onesies - this is also the type of stitch you find on the sleeve. Generally the two and three thread stitches are for clothing that is not going to get pulled apart or stressed and is the best for crafts. The four and five thread machines, on the other hand, make seams. This is the common stitching found on most ready to wear garments. If you look at the side seam of the shirt you are wearing right now you will probably find a four thread overlock stitch. The five thread overlock makes the traditional overlock stitch but also makes a simultaneous straight line of stitching, called the safety stitch that runs parallel to the overlock stitch. This is commonly found on clothing that will get stressed and pulled a lot like the back side of pants. If you ever noticed a seam that appeared to have split but when you look closer you can see that something did come apart but there is still stitching holding it together you have witnessed a safetystitch at work. It acts like the first line of defense against a tear. So there you have it - overlocks in a nutshell. If you want to take a closer look at these machines I invite you to visit my ebay store Happy-Boxes and browse. Happy Sewing!
Guide created: 10/24/07 (updated 08/11/08)
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