The title for this guide actually came from a friend of mine. . .she and I both make jewelry, and I'd been working on a necklace that I told her probably needed Miyuki beads because it wasn't draping the way I wanted, and she asked me, "What's a Miyuki?"

So, this is a basic primer on various types of seed beads for those new to beading.  First, as with many things, when it comes to beads, you get what you pay for. . .to a certain extent.  When I first started beading, I found an ebay seller for beads that was very cheap, so I bought quite a few beads from them.  It turned out that these were their "own brand", and because the beads were so irregular, I ended up giving them away (my apologies to the recipient!)  This photo illustrates the kind of irregularity that you can run into.  (Please note all photos are enlarged to show detail.)

For basic purposes, I've decided on four categories of beads to describe: 1) Basic "cheap" beads; 2) standard beads; 3) top-class beads; and 4) other. 

1.  'Cheap' beads, like those shown above, may do just fine added to a single strand for color, or as spacers(eyeglass holders, name tag holders).  But, they won't do well in any beadweaving or regular stitching application because the size isn't consistent, and will cause irregularities in the finished piece.  The following photo is a bead 'collar' on a vase; these beads would probably not cause a problem in this type of application, as long as you select the beads you use carefully - which actually adds another consideration.  You WILL spend more time picking through these beads, and discarding those that are too thin, holes too small, very lop-sided - which can make the cost difference for a higher-quality bead well worth the price!. 

2)  Czech seed beads are probably the 'standard' for Standard Seed Beads, and a quick scan of Czech seed beads will provide listings in an extraordinary array of colors, sizes, quantities, and prices.  They are fairly consistent in shape and size, and work well for many beading applications, including weaving and embroidery.  They are also excellent as spacers, or for fringe work.  They are relatively inexpensive, particularly if purchased in "hanks" - a hank of 11/0 Czech seed beads has 12 strands, each 12" long, for an approximate total of 4,000 beads.  The bead embroidery shown below uses Czech silver-lined topaz seed beads.  The embroidery has more to do with how the beads line up, or don't, than any irregularity in the beads themselves..

3) Miyuki and Matsuno Japanese seed beads are probably the top quality seed beads, and Miyuki Delicas are typically the highest quality overall.  Because of their consistent size, large hole (good for multiple passes of the thread) and style of design, there are more Delicas in a gram of 11/0 seed beads than there are of other types of beads.  Also, because they are about equal in length and width, they can be used with cross-stitch designs without causing distortion. 

A discussion of Japanese seed beads would not be complete without including Toho    If you've picked up seed beads at your local craft store, you may have purchased various 'brand' names such as Mill Hill - most of these are Toho beads repackaged.

All of these beads work well for bead-weaving, stitching and netting applications.  The photo below shows a 'net' that was started with Miyuki beads.  When I ran out of beads, I began to use another seed bead - the difference was quickly apparent in the last vertical strand on the right!

4) Other - Seed beads are offered in an incredible variation.  The typical bead is round or slightly flattened like a donut, but they can also be found in hex (flat cut sides which accentuate reflections), cube beads, flats (a flattened cube), bugle beads, which are long, slender cylinders, fringe beads (slightly egg-shaped with the hole at the small end of the 'egg'), triangles (a 3-sided bead), and twists (most common with bugle beads, occasionally available in hex beads).  To add to your choices, there is also a wide selection of sizes - 15/0, also known as Rocailles, 13/0, 12/0, 11/0 (which is the most common for beadweaving, beadwork and embroidery), and various others (10/0, 9/0, 8/0, 6/0).  The higher the number, the smaller the size (15/0 is VERY tiny, 6/0 is about like a 'pony bead', around 4mm).  Many vintage and antique seed beads are in smaller sizes, such as 15/0 (or smaller) to 12/0.  The photo below illustrates some of the varieties described.

L to R - a twisted bugle bead, a Miyuki pearl fringe bead (sorry, the hole is hard to see); then, strung above and unstrung below to show the holes are Miyuki Delicas, Miyuki 11/0, Czech 11/0 in green, cheap beads in cobalt, Czech 8/0 beads in pearl and silver-lined light topaz, Czech 'cube' bead in a green aurora-borealis, and a Miyuki purple-lined crystal triangle bead.  The pink bead by itself is a pink alabaster Czech 'flat' - a flat, rectangular bead that is about 4mm x 5mm x 2mm, with the hole running the long way of the bead.

At one time I thought, "A seed bead is a seed bead" - well, no more!  I've learned to distinguish between beads, and to select the beads that are appropriate for the application.  I've also learned to "shop ebay" - and not only compare prices, but compare shipping costs, and the quantity of beads I'm buying.  After all, if I can get 5 grams for $5.00 with free shipping, it's cheaper than getting 4 grams for $2.50 with $2.50 shipping.  And so. . .may you enjoy your bead shopping!