What Gauge Wire Do I Need?

An often asked question for new wire workers is, "What size gauge do I need?" Wire is sized in gauges. The smaller the gauge (number) the bigger the wire. Below I've listed some of the most commonly used gauges and their uses.

• 16 gauge: .051 inches, 1.29 millimeters. Very heavy and thick wire. Use with heavy duty tools.
• Project uses: Wire sculpture, bracelet bases, unsupported shapes, neckwires.

 

• 18 gauge: .040" 1.02 millimeters. Medium thick wire. Use with regular jewelry tools.
• Project uses: Wine charms, clasps, gift wrapping, decorations, wire wrapping beads with large holes, chainmaking.

• 20 gauge: .032" .81 millimeters. Medium wire. Use with regular jewelry tools. Most base metal headpins and earwires are made from 20-gauge wire.
• Project uses: A good general-purpose wire for making earwires, headpins, and small wire clasps. Good for wire wrapping most glass beads, colied beads, and eye pins.

 

• 22 gauge: .025" .64 millimeters. Medium thin wire. Use with regular jewelry tools. This gauge is ideal to use when 20-gauge is just a bit too thick.
• Project uses: Wire wrapping beads like Austrian Crystals or transparent semi-precious beads, scrapbooking and paper crafts.
  

• 24 gauge: .020" .51 millimeters. Thin wire. Use with regular jewelry tools. The nylon wire straightening plier is recommended for use with this wire when it gets kinks, which it has a tendency to do.
• Project uses: Wire wrapping smaller crystals, semi-precious beads, and freshwater pearls to chain, rubber stamping and delicate embelishments.
  

 

• 26 gauge: .016" .41 millimeters. Very thin wire. In order for this wire to maintain a loop, loops must be wire wrapped closed. Tools with very fine tips should be used with this wire. Because this wire kinks, a  nylon wire straightening plier is recommended.
• Project uses: Wire wrapping beads to tiaras and in wire projects where 24-gauge wire
  is just a bit too heavy for the beads. Wire stiching, embroidery, and seed bead projects.

• 28-34 gauge: .013-.006" .32-.16 millimeters. Very, very fine wire. Tools with very fine tips should be used with this wire. This wire kinks quite a bit and a nylon wire-straightening plier is essential for use with this size wire.
• Project uses: This wire is perfect for wire weaving, crocheting and free form wire wrapping using small beads.

Since I first posted this guide, I've had several questions about the meaning of the terms Dead Soft, Half Hard, and Full Hard so I've decided to add those to the guide. These terms are usually associated with wire made of precious metals. Precious metal wires are made in two metals, gold filled and sterling silver, though some have begun to add copper to this list due to its current high market value, and in 4 shapes: round, half round, square and twisted. The shape of wire to use is purely an aesthetic decision. Precious metal wires also come in three hardness's:

• Dead Soft wire is extremely malleable and can be bent easily into a multitude of shapes. However, it does not hold its shape well in situations where a great deal of weight or pressure may be applied, such as with clasps.
  
• Half Hard wire is malleable and does maintain its shape under moderate weight and pressure.
  
• Full Hard wire is holds its shape very well and is excellent for clasps. It may be very difficult to use for intricate designs that require more malleability.
  

Remeber to practice your designs first on the more economical wires such as brass or copper based, and to save your precious metal scraps for meltdown and recycling. Often times the seller will buy your scraps or can direct you to someone that does.

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