Western Cowboy Boots Buying & Care Guide : eBay Guides

Western boots are becoming increasingly popular these days!  This article will examine the Styles, the Materials, the Care, and the Fit that is right for you! Lets start off by talking about style.

There are typically 7 different styles of western boots to choose from:

1) Ropers - By far the most popular and oldest pull-on style which features a fairly flat arch, shorter shaft, rounded toe and low, straight heel. They are a perfect work boot.

2) Wellingtons - Also a very old style of pull-on boot, they feature a very plain style with a low heel, or one piece sole and heel, and a semi-rounded toe for ultimate comfort. They are the perfect casual and work boot.

3) Packers - These more resemble military boots with their lace-up style, high arch and a tapered heel that has a wider toebox, making them perfect for a job with lots of walking involved.

4) Loggers (Lineman) - These boots are very similar to the Packer style but they feature a treaded outsole for great traction control.

5) Lacers - These boots have a traditional cowboy boots style, but are laced up for a custom fit.

6) Harness - These are basically what are known as motorcycle boots.  They feature a O-ring harness on the side that has connecting straps.  They also can have a buckle in place of the O-ring.

7) Fashion - These are the boots that are so very popular right now with a more pointed toe, 1 1/2" - 2" heel, and medium arch. They usually feature handsome stitched designs, inlays or wingtips. These boots are not made for working, but for looking sharp! They are usually made with exotic leathers like lizard or ostrich.

Which brings us to our next topic - Materials! Boots can be made with almost any type of skin/leather. From the very plain to the most exotic. 

1) Full-Grain Leather - The most popular and easy to find material, which means that the leather is from the first-cut taken from the hair side of the hide. This leather is very durable and long-lasting.

2) Cowhide - This leather is one of the toughest/durable leathers yet smooth to the touch.

3) Bullhide (bullhide shoulder) - This leather is taken from the best leather of the cow/bull located around the shoulder area. Bullhide is a bit thicker and has a veiny grain.

4) Roughout (suede)- This leather is a very soft to the touch, yet quite durable because it is taken from the flesh/meat side of the skin.

5) Brush-Off - This is more of a style than a material, as it is where the tannery adds a bit of color to the leather surface changing the colors tone (ex: black cherry).

6) Suede (rough-out)- This is where the leather fibers are seperated creating a roughed-up finish or a nap.

7) Nubuck (nubuc or Bull Dog) - This is a very tightly sueded finish that is sanded smooth.

8) Exotics - Skins of exotic animals that have a more distinct characteristic than the above leathers. The types of exotic leathers may include:

- Anteater - a depressed scaley diamond pattern that is acceptable for casual or formal wear

- Eel - lightweight skin sewn in stripes across the boot and is for dress or casual wear.

- Elephant - very thick, heavy hides having a wrinkled look which is nice for casual wear.

- Lizard - (Iguana, Teju or Nocona) divided & hardened scales for formal to casual wear.

- Cayman (alligator) - distinctive square & raised pattern with a slightly glossy finish for formal or casual.

- Kangaroo - the strongest leather that is smooth & lightweight with a very slight grain finish (resembles Patent).

- Ostrich (full-quill or leg cut) - shows distinctive raised quill pores & is extremely comfortable.

- Python (snakeskin) - unique pattern from the back or belly cut which can be dyed.

- Rattlesnake - distinct diamond patterned snakeskin that usually comes in light colors.

- Shark - a very scratch resistant, grainy leather that wears well for casual or formal wear.

- Stingray - scratch resistant skin with a distinct star on the vamp with pebbly texture.

Now that we understand the style and material of boots that can be purchased, how do you take care of them once you have them? There are a few general rules in which to care for your boots:

1) Clean - Do this step first! To do this, you can wipe down the boot with a damp (never wet) cloth to remove any dust or dirt. Let the boots dry naturally. Do not set them out in the sun or near a heat source to prevent them over-drying.

2) Condition - After the leather is dry, use a lanolin-based conditioner (never petroleum based) to penetrate the skin and make it soft. But be careful, as too much oil/wax can break down the leather and make it dry out-defeating the purpose.

3) Polish - After you have conditioned you can polish your boots with a boot cream in the same or similar color as your leather. This helps to remove any scratch marks and create a nice gloss.

4) Protect - This step should probably not be done everytime you clean your boots, but two or three times a year. Apply a non-silicone water and stain proof protector over the entire boot, paying close attention to the areas that get the most beating.

A few other tips to help maintain the look of your boots are to use a cedar boot tree when they are not in use to help maintain their shape; do not store in plastic bags so they can adequately breathe; and scuff marks can usually be removed with a soft pencil eraser between cleanings!

So now that you are an expert in boots, how do you know you are getting a good fit? There are three basic features that you should look for when getting fitted for your boots:

1) When you put the boot on and stand, your heel should be at the boots heel and the arch of the boot should fit nicely with the arch of your own foot. If this is fine, then check out that the ball of your foot is at the widest part of the boots sole. If it is father forward, then go a 1/2 or full size up; if is is father back, go 1/2 size down.

2) The second and one of the most important factors in determining having a boot you can be comfortable in, is the toe-box. There are many different toe styles from pointy to round. But the real measure is how your toes feel in the toe-box. If your big toe makes a bump or is touching the tip of the boot, then move up a 1/2 size. Are your toes crowded? Then move up a 1/2 size. Stamp your foot as far forward in the boot to see if after a long walk, your toes will be crowded. Also keep in mind the type of sock you plan on wearing with the boots. Are they thick or thin?  Adjust the size accordingly.

3) The instep must fit correctly or it will make walking in the boots a major pain! A slight heel slippage (in the beginning) is normal and usually disappears after the sole is flexed and broken in a bit. The instep should be just snug enough to prevent the foot from falling forward into the toe-box and creating toe cramping, but loose enough to produce a slight wrinkle for comfortable bendability.

If your feet are prone to swell and or you are on your feet most of the day, a lace up (lacer) boot may be more appropriate for you, as you can adjust the laces to get the perfect fit throughout the day. Always remember, that if you are between sizes in a regular shoe, then go for the bigger size in a cowboy boot. A boot that is a tad too big can be compensated for by thick socks, but if they are too small/tight, they will hurt your feet!

So what makes a $100 pair of boots different from a $1000 pair? Sometimes a lot, sometimes a little. A lot has to do with the brand.  Your best bet is to go for a great brand name that fits your price range. If you have $200 dollars to spend on a pair of boots (at retail cost), then look for a reputable brand like Justin, Acme or Double-H. If you have $500 to spend (at retail cost), then check out the more expensive Lucchese, Dan Post or Nocona!  Of course, you can save between 40-80% off retail by purchasing on eBay!  Whatever brand you buy, be sure to buy them from a company with good feedback and one that has some sort of return policy for ill-fitting shoes.

Boots are not inexpensive, so taking a little time to understand as much as you can about the boots style, materials, care and fit, will make you happier with your purchase in the long run.   

S. Hawkins

Outdoor Wear USA

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