Can anybody explain the Navy Blazer?  Isn't that like trying to explain Mom and Apple Pie? How can you go wrong with a navy blazer? Wentworth Tradd shows you how you really shouldn't and how to be absolutely bulletproof when you do it right.

In  some quarters the classic combination of navy blazer and khaki pants is called a Charleston Tuxedo, and, like a tuxedo, it would seem to be hard to mess up. But never underestimate the power of fashion meddlers and bumblers when it comes to style. There ARE ways to mess up even a navy blazer. Herewith a guide against those mistakes and a clear roadmap of the paths of sartorial righteousness:

To some people, the word "blazer" is synonymous with "sportcoat" and "suit jacket", while others recognize a couple of important distinctions.   Your advisor here is in favor of distinctions. They separate the knowing from the  foolish, the merino sheep from the cashmere goats, the rice and gravy from the  invasive juice of the Leseur peas, etc. Distinctions are what other people will make about you, without even knowing it.  Some people call this sizing up  "the cut of your jib".  The term derives from sailing. The jib is the forward sail on most boats and while it is basically a triangle, slight variations, what we might call style, are what make some sails faster than others and some sails absolutely disreputable.  Interestingly, the name "blazer" has a nautical history as well, being the name of a vessel whose captain is said to have outfitted his crew in dark blue jackets.

And the rest, as they say, is history.  Navy blue, as we generaly call it, is a perfect color for most men. It is quiet and strong. It is easy to match and it goes with just about everything.

But we get ahead of ourselves.  We were discussing the difference between a blazer and, say, a suit coat or a sportcoat. A blazer is generally a solid color, preferably blue or maybe red or green, depending on whether you are a golfer or a real estate agent, or maybe a football coach.  If you think of a plaid coat as a blazer, you need to start thinking differently. A plaid coat is a sport jacket.  A solid coat is a blazer. Unless, of course, you are thinking of a jacket in BLAZING stripes, as worn by cricket teams, which is pretty definitely a blazer.  And some solid colored coats  may be technically blazers, but should still be avoided in most circumstances, like mauve, puce, mustard, umber, etc.

OK, are you sufficiently confused?  Like the Marine Corps, that is our goal. We will tear you down and start over.   Repeat after me. A Blazer is a Navy jacket with highly contrasting buttons, sir.

Why do the buttons need to contrast? So that nobody will think we are wearing our suit coat with the wrong trousers.  In the cold months a blazer should have brass buttons, but in the summertime, crisp white ones look just fine.  The current trend of wearing a blue jacket with dark horn buttons is a bad idea. If you don't know why, trust me. If you do, just remember it. You needn't judge others harshly if they don't understand this concept. Some things are difficult for lesser minds. You know better and that is enough.

A set of monogrammed buttons is a nice gift, as would be a set with the seal of one's old school, but any bright and shiny ones will do.  If you are like me and have more than one blazer, the different buttons are a quick way of telling them apart.

More than one? How and why? Well, why, because there are different types available. And how, by patiently saving and watching carefully, then buying when the opportunity arises.

I can think of three, maybe four major types of Blue Blazers:

1) The All American: This is a two button blazer with patch and flap pockets below and maybe a patch pocket at the left breast. It has a center vent in the rear.  You will wear it everywhere. So will everybody else.
2) The Ivy League: This is a three button blazer, possibly with besom (i.e., non-patch) pockets at the waist, or possibly with patch ones- either way it has  a breast pocket to match.  It has no darts in the front and is cut in a full "sack" pattern with soft shoulders and  a center vent. If it does have patch pockets, you may opt for an embroidered patch of some type (school or family coat of arms, heraldic beast, regimental device, skull and crossbones, etc.) on the breast pocket.
3) The Anglo-Continental: This jacket is probably two button, with a little more waist suppression (tapering) and maybe a little stronger (more padded ) shoulder, usually with a higher armhole cut. It may have two vents in the back or it may have none at all.  It requires a trim physique, unless you are French, in which case you will believe your physique is trim anyway.  Do be sure your backside is appropriately slim if you opt for the double vent.
4) The Double Breasted: This jacket has peak lapels and (ideally) six buttons, with besom pockets and either two vents or none at all.  You might practice standing around with your hands in the pockets, like Michael Gambon.  If you are going to be sitting on the same sofa where your dog sits, this is the best blazer to do so. Somehow the DB flair will cancel out the  mess of the dog hair when you stand up.   It won't help, though, if the double vent makes you look too broad in the beam.
 These last two should probably not be worn with a button down collar.  The stylistic clash of the relatively casual collar and the dressy jacket cut is just a little too confusing. If you want to go for contrast, wear them with your jeans.

As we mentioned, there are Wrong Blazers, too. Anything with more than three buttons in a row should only be worn by gentlemen who make their living with large balls. Anythng with only one button should not be worn by anyone over about 5 feet tall. Obviously, this doesn't apply to tuxedoes. This rule is only for blazers and sportcoats. However, the prohibition against most other colors of blue besides navy applies to blazers AND to tuxedoes.  Again, it is easier not to wonder why, but just to accept.  If the word "electric" might be applied to your jacket, it is best to give it away, preferably to a nasty relative.  You know the one.

You can and should wear your blazer everywhere.  A navy blazer and charcoal flannels looks dressier than the Wrong Suit. A blazer thrown on over your golf clothes makes it look like you didn't just come off the golf course, even if you obviously did..  And, if you are in one of those strange corporate environments where people are suppposed to Be Casual, Because Your Job Depends on It, a blazer is just the right amount of armor against the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune.

One word of caution, though. Unless you are used to being the only person in the room doing or wearing something, you might want to go easy on the pocket patch. It's a fine line and I am not going to be there to catch you if you stray over it.

Now go forth and spread our message of  charm and good taste. You will appear confident and capable when you may not actually be either.  Be honest and forthright and people will be sure you are understating your strengths. Remember to say please and thank you.

And now it is my turn to say Thank You for reading this and to ask that you Please consider giving this little guide a "yes" vote for helpfulness.  I hope you will have time to see my other guides and reviews, which cover a wide range of topics.

Until we meet again,

Wentworth Tradd