I wrote this guide because so many people come here without knowing what they want to do, and instead of having a vacation, they have a stress-cation, get angry, and leave unhappy. We see this a-lot! To get the very best out of your trip, then yes, you have some homework. I'm going to take the time to share a few great ideas with you. But make sure you know what sites and activities are ultra-important to you and to those you are traveling with so that you don't leave disappointed. We live on the dry side, the Kona side, so most all our recommendations are on this side or on the north side of the island. Here are my humble suggestions on what you really need to do, first while you are making your initial arrangements~and I don't get anything from any of these companies for sharing my experiences with you either... Kona or west side=dry and sunny and most all fun stuff; Hilo or east side=cloudy, partly sunny, and rainy---but has a small mall and is a little closer to the volcano if you want to take a helicopter tour or drive up to the many tourist sites (mac nut farms, tropical flower parks, waterfalls..) Waimea and northern part of island (Kohala coast) is lush, green, looks like Ireland with sheep, horses, ranches, no-lies! but is chilly willy and can be cloudy, windy and rainy - why it's so green and lush. (If the following is too little for you to see, just press " ctrl"  with "  +"   a couple times and the print will get bigger)

Rental cars: You can get the exact car for less money if you go through "Aloha Rents." Why? Not only do you get the exact cars from the main car rental agencies for less money, there is no fee for adding your spouse (you know that annoying fee for adding-an-additional-driver?) and no fee if you are young, like 21-24! If you are adventurous, get a 4-wheel drive because you are going to want to go to the beaches of different colors, up and down off road areas, and off the beaten path. If you are conservative and plan on taking a helicopter tour of the volcano, just get a car. The great places you can get to without 4-wheeling.and you can see the beaches close up and video tape them or at least photograph them when the choppers take you down close to watch the lava pour into the ocean, creating instant black sand. More about that later.

Lodgings: If you know a friend, see if they are plum worn out from constantly having company and entertaining them - they might be too nice to say anything (believe me). But try breaking out of the usual hotels if you want to save money and instead, rent a room at a bed and breakfast or someone's home - it's usually completely furnished, clean (they want you to come back or recommend them to your friends), and less expensive. The Kona side is dry and sunny; the Hilo side is wet and cloudy - yes, there are exceptions but this is the general fact of weather life here. The high country such as Waimea can be blustery, cloudy, and downright cold at night so bring jeans and sweaters if you plan on staying at higher elevations. In my humble opinion, DO NOT use the vacation room/house/dwelling companies - I have not had good experience with this route. It's better to use the classified ads, internet ads, especially Craig's List, and see if there's a link at their website to read previous vacationer's comments - this is important because they always tell it like it is, ok? If it's important to have a pool, whether one or two nights, or your entire stay, go for the hotels. I recommend the Sheraton at the south end of Ali'i. Why? Close to everything and doesn't take an hour to get there and back like some of the other resorts do, but it just depends on what is important to you. Many of them have the golf courses so it's just what matters to you.

Further, "In my humble opinion" things to do:

Best beach? Hapuna Beach on the northwest part of our island paradise - white sand and lots of it, turquoise to sapphire blue waters, gentle waves (or can be large in winter so USE CAUTION if flags are posted), showers, bathrooms, shade under swaying palm trees on grass by the BBQ grills and picnic tables, and lots and lots of sun. You can boogie board, sometimes surf (in winters) and probably see whales just off the coast and probably a bit north of there between Dec and February. (Note- this is not a good snorkeling beach since the sand reaches far out and you need reefs/coral for the fishes to be there, but you cannot come to Big Island without hitting Hapuna Beach)

Best snorkeling? If you are a novice/beginner swimmer, might as well go to Kahalu Beach where all the tourists go right on the main beach street called "Ali'i (ah-lee-ee). It's closer to the south end of the street, by the Outrigger and on the way to the Sheraton. It has showers, bathrooms, covered picnic tables, BBQ grills and close to everything. Go early, before the waves get bigger and while there's still parking. You will be sun-baked by 11 am and can leave to do other touristy things and give your parking space to the latecomers.

Are you a good to excellent swimmer? Bypass Kahalu and go straight south about 25 mintues to Kealakekua Bay (ask where Captain Cook's monument is). This road that fronts the ocean between Kealekekua Bay and south to a great spot to see "Pu'u O Honaunau City of Refuge Park," aka City of Refuge, and turn into the park. If it's early in the day and the waves are gentle, go snorkeling first. As you turn into the park, make that right turn onto the road that looks like it's leading you off to no where (it's the only right before you end up at the park). Within a couple minutes you will see cars parked right up against black smooth lava which drops off into a giant bay teaming with neon colored fish - the best place to snorkel in all of Hawai'i islands! It's called 2-step because when you walk out towards the center of the lava (it's only about 30 feet to the water) just to the left of center there are two steps that you can enter the bay and be right smack dab in the most clean, see-through water in all the islands. Why? Because it seldom rains here and there is hardly any run-off of sand, dirt or debris - you will see 'gardens' of coral. No kidding - looks like a manicured garden, with all kinds of fish, turtles, one or two eels (deep down) and sheer wonder. But what most people do not know is that there is an even easier '3-step- to the far right of all the lava. It's even easier to get into and out of the bay here. Since there is no sandy beach here, just pristine snorkeling, you need to be confident in your swimming capabilities. There are no life guards here like there are at Hapuna Beach.  AND TOURISTS DROWN IN HAWAI'I ALL THE TIME, YOU JUST DON'T HEAR ABOUT IT ON THE MAINLAND. So be careful - borrow, rent or buy a boogie board with the glass insert so you can float on top of the water, and just look through the board. Wear a life jacket for crying out loud if you think you're a great swimmer but people raise their eyebrows at you when you say that or remind you about the time when you... You know what I'm talking about.

The volcano: If you come all the way to Big Island (BI) and you don't drive to, hike to or fly over the volcano in a chopper tour, you are simply going to regret it for the rest of your life. At the very least, you can drive around the rim, see the steam billowing skyward and smell all the sulfur (watch out if you have emphysema or asthmatic like conditions). We call that smell and brown air "Vog" volcanic smog. Because of the trade winds, it usually blows the vog up around the Kona side of the island.... It usually isn't too bad and with air conditioning in the car and in your room, no worries. If you are on oxygen, make sure your auto and room have good, good, good AC. Tell them about your condition so they take better care of you. The volcano is one of the few places that you can say you saw lava actually flowing out of the earth and into the sea! Only a minority of people can say this. Yes, it is worth it - helicopter is the best way - save up your pennies because there's no comparison between driving, hiking and flying over.

Luau: The best? Go north to Mauna Kea Beach Resort for their Luau - you might want to plan this on the day you go up to Hapuna Beach, shower, change clothes, be at the luau no later than 4:45 pm to be first in line. Follow the signs to Luau once you turn off the highway for the resort. Park and walk toward the left, near the hotel. Head towards the water (you'll see the back of the servicing tables and tents and know you're on the right track). You'll see tiki torches unlit as of yet, with a welcome entry into the luau area. Don't go in. The greeters will be setting up a table on your left with leis for all guests, and inside to the right of the luau area, you will see a white tent of more hostesses who will seat you at the best places - if you don't like where you end up, just ask your hostess nicely if you could please be seated over - (point). She will get the manager and you can ask again, usually you will get it. :o)  While you are standing in line waiting for the 5:30 pm entrance, you will receive your leis. Then make friends with the people in line with you. Ask your new friends to save your place if you save theirs so that you guys can take turns walking about 20 feet to the ocean to get spectacular photos of you and your loved ones - cheaper than paying for the hotel greeters to do it, unless you want to spend $$ for it. Then you can get back in line and let your new 'friends' go get their pic's taken while you save their place in line. Then make sure you know how to use your cameras in the dark, especially for the fire dancers or you will end up with an orange blur on black background - so practice now, ok?

Fishing: In Kona, go to the marina (go north out of town and before you get to Chevron stationn... or just after, you'll see the big signs for Harbor and arrow - it's at the light. Head towards the water and call ahead to either rent a boat (bring all food and drinks) that comes with all the rigging (they give you good instructions, cell phone, life jackets, poles, lines, fake bait), or go out for a morning, afternoon, or all day with a charter and buffet for those of you with more $$$ than we bricklayers have. You will no doubt see the spinner dolphins as well as huge fish - enjoy!
 
The "Upper Road" or road to heaven during a sunset: A trip to the north of the island, or Kohala coast - if you come during winter months (Dec-Feb) let the non-driver watch the ocean for whale spouts, then pull over and watch the whale shows - breaching, flapping, slapping, having fun. The humpbacks come to Hawai'i to have their little babies, ok calves, then head back to Alaska around end of February early March. You can break up your site seeing to Hapuna Beach, by instead of doing the luau that night, do it a different night. Leave Hapuna by at least 1 pm, and drive north to Hawi (Hah,vee). the northern part of island, till the road ends. You'll pass through quanit towns with cafes and boutiques. Leave by 4 pm -- But on your way south, WATCH for the road that goes to the left, uphill with signs pointing toward Waimea. That 'upper road' (what we call it--Look at a map of the island) as you drive upward, higher and higher, towards the northern entrance of Waimea town for the most beautiful country in all if the island - You will swear you are in European countrysides like Ireland, England, Germany.... If you plan your drive to arrive in Waimea at 5:30 pm, then you must get to the upper road turnoff by 4:00 pm. When you feel like you have driven straight up to heaven and can't get any closer to the sky, look down at the ocean --  pull over when you are looking down about 3,000 feet over the entire Pacific ocean all the way to Australia! And get ready to get the most stunning sunset shots and yes, this is worth it, too!! So you're not starving and can wait for the sun to start setting, be sure to pick up a bite to eat either in Kawaihae at the Pesto Cafe or farther north at one of the little eateries in the small artisty towns you will travel through. At the end of the road up north (yes, the road ends) you can take pictures of a beautiful valley called Waipio (Why, pee, oh?). This last town also has the statue of Hawai'i's King Kamehameha - golden with leis - great photo op. (Also watch for the tree house on the left as you drive closer to the end of the road-it's really cool.)

Best souveniors: Go to WalMart - no kidding. Go into the main entrances to the store, keep to the right, and have fun. It's cheaper and they are open from like 8 am to 11 pm or later. Second best? Farmer's market on Hualalai next to the library (if you park in farmer's market or directly across the street, parking is free) no one told us that at first so we learned the costly way. Tied for 2nd best? Go to the International Market - it's the big bldgs with green metal roofs as you drive on the main hwy out of town, on the left. Turn left on Kaiwe Street, then make the first right - only bad thing is that they close early, like at 4 pm or so. But the have a huge selection of everything. Don't foreget Costco - they have tons of snorkeling, diving, surfing, boogie boarding gear, one hour film center, Hawai'ian books, for kids, cooks, coffee tables, all kinds, plus CD's and movies of Hawai'i. They also have the cheapest gas on the island. Ok, the be fair, go to KMart and Macy's and Borders Books and Music - everyone of these places have special things you will enjoy.

Restaurants: Best food for the least money -- Head back to Ali'i. Bubba Gumps $$ (by Wyland Gallery) has great coconut shrimp (restaurants raise their prices for dinner so if you're like us, poor brick layers, remember?, go for lunch or early happy hours for appetizers. North of there is the Kona Marketplace and in the center is a very nice, vintage restaurant, outdoors and by the water "Kona Inn.' We like the fish and chips or the fish sandwich $-$$.  Huggos-on the rocks $-$$ (not the 'inside' Huggos $$$), just south of their is also great. For a very special treat, go north out of town to the Four Seasons Hualalai and keep to the left once you can see the water. Park in the parking lot on the left and head for the Hualalai Grill $$-$$$ - exquisite food in fabulous lanai type setting, with wondrous service (but not as $$$ as their "Pahuia" restaurant right on the water, this one is in the gardens/golf course). There's also a nice casual 'hole-in-the-wall' place where we and many locals eat lunch at, Killer Tacos. It's close to the International Marketplace (remember with all the green metal roofs?). Instead of making the right when you turn off the highway to go to the Marketplace, turn left and try to find a parking place at the strip mall on the right. There's a furniture store, then laundry mat, then...KILLER Tacos. Surfer hangout. They make pulled meat and fresh produce soft or hard shell tacos and huge burritos with everything in it - $. Bring cash - they don't accept checks or cards. You have to ask for extra sauce or sour cream or guacamole, even extra meat if you're super hungry. Get a couple servings of rice and beans (black or pinto beans) cause they don't give you that much any more. I get the special - two tacos (I get crunchy) with chicken, a side of beans and rice and extra meat on the tacos. (Maybe the economy is hitting them hard but they don't give as much) Each special comes with tacos and a drink - the beans and rice are extra. Make like a local and go stand in line on the right hand side of the counter to place your order, then walk towards the left to pay - remember - cash only. They work hard for the lunch crowd so time your visit to 11 am or 1:30 pm to miss the sometimes-crush of workers who come in.

Whew, tired yet? I am. Great breakfast bar -- The Royal Kona Inn - can't miss it. It's the hotel on Ali'i with the tiered or terraced out levels and the restaurants are right on the water. If you watch, you'll see swimmers in the bay and possibly the dolphins leaping and spinning from your table.

Great price for flowers and leis? Costco.
Great price for food? Costco.
Gasoline? Costco.
Souveniors? WalMart, Costco, Farmer's Market, International Market
Lady's Store? Kathryn's just to the right of Long's (see shave ice below)
Beach? Hapuna
Tourist Attraction other than volcano and observatories? Go to Pu u o Honaunau City of Refuge to see a real ancient Hawai'ian village, with sea turtles sleeping on the sand in the afternoons, all in fantastic condition-there         is an entrance fee unless you're a senior and have one of those life-long free entrance to the USA parks.
Shave ice? In the "Lanihau Center" by the Bank of Hawai'i and 1st Hawai'ian Bank on Palani Street, next to the taco       and sushi stands and Long's Drug Store
Waterfalls? Akaka (on the east side of the island, just north of Hilo)
Flower gardens? Hawai'i Tropical Botanical Gardens, 1/2 mile north of Hilo
Must Do? Volcano, (if you take a helicopter, make sure it has AC) and if you have a healthy heart & on a day you didn't go diving, then take a drive up to the observatories in the mid afternoon on Mauna Kea to watch the sun go down over the ocean, and stop by the telescopes at Mauna Kea Visitor Center 9am to 10pm 365 days a year, for star gazing at the  (1/2 way up between Kona and Waimea take the Saddle Road, follow the signs), remember to snorkel at Kealekekua Bay, Slow down and breathe, take in the birds and flowers around you!, get a tan - mail your postcards on day 1 so they get back to your friends and family before you get home, check out the boutiques on Ali'i and please, research before you get here - you'll be too stressed to do this after you arrive.

For links - do an online search for "Things to do on the Big Island" and read on!

There are so many other good restaurants and shopping sites, that I can't do it justice - stop where your heart and purse tell you to stop, walk around, there's so much spectacular artwork and clothing.

PS   I'm a nurse. Please, please think two, three, even four times before you go to any of our outer islands (besides Ohau) if you are in fragile health - you kow if you are. The outer islands (not Oahu) do not have the best of medical care and it can be downright lethal should your health problems flare up and you are not near the city of Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, where the giant hospitals are that can meet almost all health needs. Don't chance it - we've had tourists get here only to die - usually by drowning or head on collisions ("Look at that whale! crash), and rarely, but yes, it does happen, because the tourist was too ill or fragile to be here. It's a 40 minute flight to Oahu and that's IF we can get you an air ambulance..... So live within your limitations - Oahu has the Polynesian Cultural Center and the Ala Moana Shopping Center - and lots of other stuff we are jealous of over here on Big Island. So if you are ill, frail, or well, not in the best health, please hang out on the island of Oahu - there's plenty to keep you busy there and you can charter a small plane or helicopter to fly you over the volcano if it's important to you. Mahalo for reading "In my humble opinion" and have a safe, great trip! Aloha!