Vintage Stocking Sizing Guide

If you are buying or selling vintage stockings, it is important that you be able to determine the stocking's size. This guide has been prepared to take the mystery out of how to determine the correct size of vintage stockings.

After measuring many, many thousands of vintage stockings over the years, I want to share the knowledge I gained in this guide. Keep in mind, the procedure outlined here is a "rough way" to measure a very intricate woven product with only basic tools like a tape measure. My hope is that we can eliminate most errors in stating sizes of non-stretch vintage nylons.

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

The time period associated with the non-stretch vintage stockings is roughly 1945 through the 1960's and ending about the time Hanes ended production in the early 1980's. When lycra was introduced, most hosiery after this time period was designated by letters (size A, B, C or D) or simply 'Small', 'Medium', 'Tall' and 'Queen'. This guide can be used for RHT, seamed, sandalfoot and many other styles of the period. It will work with 'mesh', 'flat knit' and 'non run' weaves.

The manufacturers of hosiery adhered to strict sizing standards in the manufacture of stockings. Elaborate testing and measuring took into account volume and many other criteria to insure sizes were accurate.

Stocking sizes ranged from 8 1/2 to 13 with the next size 1/2 size larger (size 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, etc). Nine sizes total. These sizes corresponded to the foot section of the stocking. When a letter followed the stocking 'size 9 M' for example, it read "size 9 stocking in medium length. The length designators were usually S, M, L, XL (short, medium, long and extra long). It was not uncommon to see petite, slim, ample, and others. These will be addressed in another review. When no letter was written, it can be assumed to be a 'medium'.

The single most important point to remember is to measure with 'consistency' and proper technique.

Materials You Will Need

A smooth, flat table top or counter at least four feet in length. Close to the edge (nearest you) tape a ruler or flat tape measure onto it. I use a paper strip with the inches marked off from 0 (zero) to 40 inches printed using a computer and tape it down on the table (fewer snags this way!). If you are not accurate here, all the measurements will be incorrect. When you measure stocking (leg) lengths, you will need upwards of 40 inches.

Procedure

The FOOT:

To measure the foot, take a single unworn stocking leg and carefully grasp the toe and heel and pull until taught. Place the tip of the toe at the left edge (zero) of the ruler, hold it steady with your thumb and measure the length where the edge of the (middle) heel ends. Let's say it measured 11 inches. To quickly dispel rumors, this does NOT mean that this is a size 11 stocking. The toe-to-heel length is NEVER the stocking size!
Stocking manufacturers adhered to strick guidelines. They measured a specific size from the toe to the "middle" or "center" of the heel. THIS measurement would be 11 inches (and therefore a size 11 stocking). However, most of us can only guess where this 'center of heel' is and it is common to measure to the "end" of the heel (the far right edge of it). In most cases, you will measure 11 3/4 inches. Along the middle range of sizes (say 9 1/2 thru 11), you can subtract 3/4 from this 'overall length measurement' to get the true stocking size. A size 10 stocking will measure 10 3/4 inches, and so on. Size 8 1/2 will range from 9 inches to 9 1/4 inches.

Stocking Size    Toe to Heel Length

size 8 1/2            9 Inches

size 9                  9 1/2

size 9 1/2           10 1/4

size 10               10 3/4

size 10 1/2         11 1/4

sz 11                 11 3/4

sz 11 1/2           12 1/4 to 12 1/2

It is easy to be inaccurate. By not stretching the stocking enough (or pulling too much), or holding the foot of the stocking crooked or having the tape measure not laid down properly. Never take measurements if a stocking has been worn or washed. Sizes 12 and 13 may have used extra 'volume' in the foot to accommodate the larger size and may not strictly adhere to our measuring techniques.

The LEG:

The second measurement will determine if you have a stocking that is a 'Short, Medium, Long or Extra Long'. We will measure the length from the bottom of the heel to the very top of the welt. Simply pull the stocking taught, line up the heel at zero and measure the top edge of the welt. No subtraction needed. It is the actual length. There is much more nylon from heel to top so it is easy to pull too hard and obtain wrong measurements. Some welts stretch. It is best to take a stocking with a "known" length, measure it yourself and see if your measurements agree to test your skill.

Stocking Size     Heel to Welt Length

size 8 1/2 M       28 - 29 Inches

size 9 M             30 1/2 Inches

size 9 1/2 M       31 - 31 1/2 Inches

size 10 M           32 Inches

size 10 1/2 M     33 Inches

size 11 M           33 - 34 Inches

For 'LONG' lengths:
Add 2 inches
Example: size 10 Long starts at 34 inches and runs (sorry!) to almost 36 inches.

For 'EXTRA LONG' lengths:
Add another 2 inches to the 'long' lengths
Example 10 XL starts at 36 inches.

Other Factors

What about quality, name brands and other factors?

I have personally measured hundreds of name brands. Does name brand make a difference? YES!
In general, the well known, best made vintage stockings were almost always 'true to size'. Take, for example, the famous Hanes style 415 flat knit RHT stocking. The cadillac of vintage stockings! Unfold a pair from it's tissue of a size 10 medium and measure the foot length. It will always be 10 3/4 inches. The size stamped on the welt (and on the box) will also be proof you have measured correctly. This would be good practice if you are not sure of how 'taught' to pull the stocking for measurements. Most high quality brands like Hanes, Schiaparelli, Berkshire, Star, Belle Sharmeer, Klaussner and dozens of others were 'true to size'. There are two that come to mind, that actually ran longer in both the foot and lengths by at least one inch: Alberts and Araline. Size 10 will consistently measure 11 inches and size 10 1/2 almost always 11 1/2 inches 'toe-to-heel'.

Quality plays an important role if you have a vintage stocking that is irregular, seconds or other designation. Irregular may be designated if the color is not the exact shade the manufacturer wanted. It could also be the size and/or length was too long or short (when measured against industry standards). If you come across a collection of irregulars, trust your judgement on the measuring technique your just learned rather than the size stamped on the product.

Now it is time to put this to use and see how you MEASURE UP!