Post War models described as Pre War ones.

Like a Hornby Dublo train chassiss the dicast bodies of pre war Dinkys suffered from metal fatigue. To have one that has not shown signs of cracking is a miracle! Back in the 1970s my prewar models showed signs of fatigue so I sold them off and replaced them with post war models. I lost out on the deal in those days but if I had kept them all I would be left with now would be parts of a model - not a complete one. If someone offers you a prewar Dinky then do not be tempted into being misled by the collectors claims that it is worth much, much more than a post war one. Some are trying to make the best of a poor investment. In another 20 to 30 years genuine prewar dinkys will probably suffer from advanced metal fatigue. My advice I give to beginners is; go for the post war models that will not disintegrate with time. Some sellers tell us that a post war model is infact a pre war one when they are obviously not. The simple way to check this is to compare the axles. Pre war models have a thinner axle than their post war counterpart.

Don't be missled by wrong information.

I have been collecting Millitary Dinkys for over half a century and sold them for around 20 years in my model shop. Recently I have been watching and bidding on military Dinkys to restore to use on a 7mm scale model railway based on a Nato Armament Depot. There was one 5 miles from my home so I had real experiance in these matters.

A lot of sellers use phrases like US export model but most of them are assuming that the model they are selling is an export model. U.S. Export models will not have the pre 1953/4  number on them. A small quantity of export models did not have a number whatsoever but most had the export number cast into the body or it appeared on the baseplate. The early military Dinkys were mostly numbered in the 150 and 160 series. When Dinky began its renumbering scheme sometime in the 1950s there were models make for the UK market using two different model numbers. Often but not always, the renumbered model was made for the U.S.export market only and supplies for the UK were dropped or reduced.

Do your own research

Try to get an older copy of 'The ModelPrice Guide' that was published by Model Collector Magazine of Croydon. All Dinky models are listed in the guide and renumbering details are listed. One will see that some models are often the centre of confusion to new collectors. 'New' being collectors that have been collecting for less than ten years - yes.  Try to look at the reviews in vintage copies of Meccano Magazine and look for articles in older specialist magazines like Model Collector.

Renumered Models

Most of the renumbering of any Dinky model took place in 1953/54. Upto then unless, it was a plane all models were packaged in 'dealer packs of six. At or shortly after this time some ordinary Dinky models were revamped as Dinky Supertoys.

US Export renumbering
This is a list of export equivalent numbers. remember some of the revised entries may have been sold in the UK for a short period of time and not originally described as an 'export model' 

600 was 150   - Figure [ Armoured Personnel Corps ]
604 was 162b - Figure [ Royal Tank Corps, Private, sitting ]
606 was 160   - Figure [ Royal Artillery personnel ]
608 was 160b - Figure [ Royal Artillery gunner, seated ]
620 was 151b - Transport wagon with driver
650 was 152a - Light Tank
671 was 152b - Reconnaissance car
675 was 139am - U.S. Army Staff Car
690 was 161b - A-A Gun
691 was 162 - Field Gun Unit [comprising of 162a, 162b and 162c ]

I hope this little guide will clear up some of the misunderstandings that are masked away by rumour and gossip.

Overpriced Models?

On eBay too many poorer quality, repainted and damaged models are going for more money than one would in a conventional auction or a toy fair. Where a model commands more to be spent on it, is when it is mint and boxed. The Model Collector Magazine use a pricing guide that takes into account the quality of the model. Some restorations are excelent, other look as if they have been painted by a stoat's tail. The shade of green restoration paint is also a giveaway. Meccano Millitary Green is nothing like Humbrol No 75 used by many plastic kit modellers. One must take all these factors into the equation when making a bid and should fix a maximum price that is their first and final offer. I try to work to this rule but I have to admit that I too have been carried away with the adrenalin rush one gets with last minute bidding. Sometimes the rush is better than winning the model and at the best of it it is safer and cheeper than getting a fix from hard drugs.

Good luck with your bidding and if one collector benefits from this guide then all my work preparing it has been worth it.

Tom Jenkins