VICTORIAN

1837 – 1860 Early Victorian

1861 – 1901 Late Victorian

Many exciting things happened during the Victorian era of the 1800’s. Goodyear patented the rubber making process in 1837. Gold was discovered in California in 1848. Factories were being built in record numbers. There was a deep need for Religion and its proper observance.

The Early Victorian period began in 1837, when Queen Victoria ascended the English throne, to reign for 64 years.  Victorian times coincide with the rapid growth of cities and of the industrial revolution.  The Jewelry industry benefited from mass production techniques.  Machines were developed to make stamping whole pieces of jewelry from thin sheets of metal. 

Even more significant for jewelry was electroplating, first applied commercially in the 1840’s.  Along with the development of gem imitations like paste, these techniques allowed people of all classes to wear copies of jewelry worn by the rich.  For the first time in recorded history, jewelry was affordable to all economic levels, and no longer only a sign of wealth. 

This was also an age of sentiment and Queen Victoria loved jewelry.  She brought the Cameo back in style as well as romantic jewelry, containing a lock of a loved ones hair.  It was not considered unnatural for Victoria to wear a bracelet made from her children’s baby teeth.

Hair-work jewelry was not only a decorative accessory; it was an outward expression of people’s innermost feelings and became an important part of the jewelry of this era.  Many ladies would buy kits to make everything from watch fobs to rings containing hair. 

To prepare the hair required first boiling it in soda water for 15 minutes, and then dividing it into strands of 20 to 30 hairs each, by length.    You could even send your hair to companies that would make a wide variety of items out of it, for a fee ranging from $4.00 to $15.00.  This became the second largest jewelry industry at one time, making hair more valuable than silver per oz!

Classical revival jewelry also prevailed: Roman heads and Greek Vases, Celtic crosses, fleur-de-lis, serpent, heart, and anchor motifs.  There was a wide range of gems used including:  old mine cut and rose cut diamonds, seed pearls, turquoise, ruby, emerald, opal, amethyst, bloodstone, moonstone and golden topaz. 

The Late Victorian era began when Queen Victoria’s husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, resulting in Victoria grieving until her own demise in 1901.  All of England mourned with her.

As a result the second half of the century’s jewelry was reflected in the more somber materials such as onyx, jet - a black coal like material from fossilized wood - and even black glass.  Mourning jewelry became increasingly more popular throughout this period, utilizing these materials, as well as the woven hair, in all types of jewelry.

Gold was still the primary metal, now in eighteen karat, fifteen, twelve and nine karat versions.  Mixed metals such as sterling silver with gold, gold plate and oxidized silver, and rolled gold were increasingly used.

In the 1860’s everything moved toward the idea of Bigger and Better.  Colors were rich and heavy with red velvets becoming popular.  Larger pieces of jewelry were in demand.  Yet also from this time were delicately carved coral pieces set in gold, amethyst set with pearls, amber, carnelian garnets, turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachite, tortoise shell jewelry and Mosaics - art assembled from tiny pieces of stone.

Important new gem discoveries were made during this era: Australian black and “milk” opals; Tourmalines were discovered in both Brazil and America; and probably most important were the diamond mines discovered in South Africa in 1867. 

The 1880’s saw the rise of silver jewelry, heavy lockets and chains, cuff bracelets, and brooches.  The close of The Civil War with more women working was one factor that influenced the roles of women and the jewelry of the times.  Additionally the university system was finally open to women.  As women began taking more active roles outside the home, jewelry was beginning to be more tailored for their needs.  Fashions changed and women began to question the larger more elaborate jewelry.  Faceted gems of softer colors and more delicate pendants were in fashion then.

Toward the end of the century upper class British and Americans were avid travelers, starting a trend in souvenir jewelry. The late Victorian period also began the trend of novelty jewelry: birds, insects and animal themes, real scarabs and claws, all set in both precious and non-precious metals.  With the advent of electric lighting, diamond jewelry and larger diamond solitaires, a woman’s best friend, became more popular. 

The Victorian period in general was quite varied as manufacturers raced to come out with new looks from large, showy pieces to smaller and truly elegant styles while keeping up with the constantly changing times.