- Using a Scanner for High-Resolution Close-Up JPG images of 3-D Items -   

I collect antique scrimshawed whale teeth, and needed an accurate, repeatable method to capture high-resolution, close-up JPG images.  A standard document scanner with good software fulfils all of my requirements.  The same scanning technique I use for scrimshaw, will work for jewelry, watches (face & workings), coins, netsuke, porcelain figures, knives, carved ivory, carved wood, or any object that will lay on a glass-top document scanner.

I use the “Preview” setting to view object positioning, exposure, etc., then tweak (properly arrange) object to straighten prior to scanning.  Sometimes I have to tape a tooth (cylindrical object) to the glass, which will hold the correct side against the glass top.  I “preview” again until happy with image.  Once the object position is set, I use the scanner software to crop tightly around object & ruler to eliminate excess background.

I scan an average 4-inch to 6-inch whale tooth (image #2) alongside a thin, 6-inch steel ruler, at 300-dpi color JPEG, with no lid on scanner, and no room lights shining directly onto glass top (rendering a jet-black background).  For larger items (images #1 & #5) I scan at 200-dpi or less.  For smaller teeth, or small objects, I scan at 400-dpi or greater, inverse to the size of the subject.  The higher the Dots-Per-Inch setting, the larger the final image.  I even scan small artist signatures at 1200-dpi, cropped very tightly around letters (images #4) and detail areas at 600-dpi (image #3 is detail close-up of #2).

          

Once the image is captured, I then clean-up the jet-black background by easily “painting-out” any dust spots around my object.  I can also carefully paint-out any noticeable tape, right up to the edge of tooth.  I do both at extreme “Zoom-In” using a medium paint-out dot, but along edge of tooth, I use a smaller paint-out dot.  I “Save” often, and “Undo” any erase errors when they occur, then carefully repeat paint-out.  I immediately save after each difficult paint-out section.

Silver or shiny items usually record fine against a black background (item #6).  For dark items, I will drape a color-contrasting cloth over the top of the scanner (image #7).  Sometimes shiny objects need to be slightly tilted to minimize mirror-reflections (images #8 & #9).  If a large, 3-D item will fit on your glass-top, like this hand-painted, carved wood, Bolivian icon, you can scan it (item #10).

           

I am currently using ScanSoft PaperPort 11 Professional software to capture, edit, and store my scanned images.  I easily changed the program to capture images in JPG format, from the default MAX setting.  My scanner is a Visioneer OneTouch 9220 USB.  Both software and scanner were purchased on eBay.  Many collectors have successfully used other combinations, but a few report light fall-off on the outer edges of spherical objects (such as whale teeth) with their set-ups (most likely from insufficient exposure illumination from scanner).  Trial & error is to be expected with different combinations of software and hardware.

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