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KBS Cycle Tank Sealer Kit

Protective gloves and safety glasses should be worn at all times while using these products.

The recommended working temperature range is 55*F or above.

Note: If you are sealing a Fiberglass Tank, please refer to additional instructions provided. Our Tank Sealer is NOT recommended for plastic tanks.

All fuel tanks, whether old or new, have residues and contaminants that need to be thoroughly removed before sealing. Sealing a tank without adequately cleaning will cause the new coating to fail. If a tank was previously sealed, remove the old sealer with a paint stripper PRIOR to cleaning. Please refer to Tank Stripping instructions provided.

STEP #1 - CLEANING:
1) To begin, drain fuel from tank. Proper fuel tank sealing also requires that the tank be removed from the vehicle. Remove any fittings such as floats, sending units, and filters.

2) Seal all openings with duct tape or cork-like stoppers.

3) Using a 1:1 dilution ratio, mix AquaKlean with hot water and pour mixture into tank. Let tank soak but always rotate it at intervals to ensure AquaKlean covers all surfaces. (NOTE: Heavy gum and varnish build-up may require extended soaking times up to 24 hours or more and/or the use of a pressure washer. Placing some nuts & bolts or loose chains inside the tank, along with frequent shaking and rotation, will help knock away loose rust and contaminants.)

4) Empty tank and repeat as often as necessary.

5) After a thorough cleaning, rinse generously with water until the solution runs clear. Drain tank and let dry.

STEP #2 - SURFACE PREPARATION:
1) Pour RustBlast full-strength into tank. Roll tank around to ensure all surfaces are kept wet with RustBlast. Repeat rolling and tipping tank every 5 minutes for a minimum of 20 minutes but no longer than 1 hour. IMPORTANT: DO NOT ALLOW RUSTBLAST TO DRY.

2) After sufficient contact, drain RustBlast and rinse tank thoroughly several times with water.

3) Allow tank to DRY COMPLETELY before proceeding. Drying is best accomplished by introducing forced air into the tank by using a shop vac, blow dryer, or fan. RustBlast MAY leave behind a visible white powdery coating. This is a zinc phosphate residue important for adhesion of the tank sealer.

NOTE: Drying is a critical step. If the tank is not completely dry, the sealer will not adhere properly.

STEP #3 - SEALING TANK:
1) Open Sealer and stir can thoroughly. DO NOT SHAKE can as this will introduce air and create bubbles.

2) Pour entire contents of can into tank and slowly rotate or roll tank until all sides are EVENLY coated.

3) Drain excess Sealer from tank for at least 30 minutes to avoid puddles before being placed down for full cure. If the design of the tank makes complete draining difficult, frequently rotating the tank during the curing process will help minimize pooling and puddles. Do NOT attempt a second coating of Tank Sealer as it will not stick to itself.

4) Immediately use any left-over Sealer for exterior patching if needed. Also, remove any excess Sealer from threads and fuel lines before curing. Cured Sealer cannot be removed by any solvent.)

5) When the job is finished, place remaining Sealer in can with lid off and let harden. (WARNING: If lid is put back on can before curing is complete, it may explode! Dispose of any hardened Sealer properly in accordance with federal, state, and local regulations.)

6) Air-dry tank in a well-ventilated area. Allow 96 hours for maximum cure and before re-filling with fuel.

PATCHING TANK (IF NECESSARY):
Use our superior KBS BackBone Reinforcing Mesh for repair of pinholes that are too large to be plugged by our Sealer alone. Prior to patching, prep the outside and inside of the tank by using AquaKlean and RustBlast and allow the surfaces to completely dry. Begin by sealing the inside of the tank as outlined above. Immediately use any remaining Sealer to paint a thin layer on the outside weakened tank area(s). Using a suitably sized piece of BackBone Mesh, embed it directly into the wet Sealer and apply another thin coat of Sealer painting outward from the center. Let cure.

CLEAN UP:
Use KBS #1 Thinner for clean up and removal of any uncured sealer.

STRIPPING (IF NECESSARY):
Use a paint stripper to remove any old tank sealer. Pour stripper into tank and carefully rotate tank to allow contact with all sides. NOTE: It may take multiple applications of stripper to finish the job completely. Old sealer may come loose in big chunks or small pieces so use a long tweezer-type tool to help remove it from the tank. After stripping is complete, rinse tank generously with water and proceed with Fuel Tank Preparation & Sealing instructions.

FIBERGLASS TANKS:
The procedure for sealing a Fiberglass Tank is the same except for a variance in Step #2 RustBlast. In this instance, thoroughly wet the fiberglass surface for only 2 minutes then drain and rinse as directed. Because you are not actually prepping metal or dissolving rust, RustBlast may be saved and re-used for future use.

QUESTIONS & TIPS:
Q. Does duct tape provide a sufficient seal to allow you to rotate, turn & invert the tank without the Sealer spilling all over the place?
A. Yes, duct tape or electrical tape works well. Also a piece of cork or rubber will seal small tubes.

Q.  What's the best way to prevent the Sealer from getting on the screw threads?
A. Apply a small amount of oil (WD-40 or similar) to the threads, and if the Sealer dries on those threads, it will peel right off.

Q. What's the best way to remove the Sealer from the fairly small "L" shaped protrusions on the underside of each side of the tank?  I can't get to it from the inside.
A. Use pipe cleaners or Q-Tips to remove the Sealer from these tubes before it cures.

Q. Any other tips, "tricks of the trade", suggestions, etc?
A. Just remember to be sure the tank is completely DRY before using the Sealer. Apply a thin film of oil wherever you DON’T want the Sealer to stick. Do NOT allow the Sealer to “puddle” in the tank. If the tank has baffles or a design which does not allow for complete draining of the excess Sealer, keep rotating the tank (every 30 min or so) as the Sealer cures to help prevent pooling.