Template or starter patterns are used to get the creative ideas going. Each Unimold starter pattern is sketched out individually intending for them to be mixed and matched.

 For example a tree branch with leaves may be wanted or the artist may want a bird setting on the branch. The pattern for the branch will be on one drawing and the different bird patterns might be drawn separately.

The pattern is drawn flat and the mold is curved so it is obvious that the flat sheet won’t fit smoothly on the mold.

This means that the individual pieces of glass will have be enlarged or reduced to allow for difference between the different flat and curved shapes.

The Unimolds method is to enlarge the radius of where the pattern set on the mold - appox   ¼ inch larger then the mold. Between the construction mold and the glass are balls of putty that hold the glass to the mold and provides a space between the mold and glass.  So when the glass is stuck to the mold and held there with a piece of putty are “leg” or “glop”.

So when the pattern is cut out with ordinary scissors - (not the three bladed kind) – and the glass is cut - the glass pattern will spread - and that’s exactly what you want. Because when the glass is on the mold the bottoms edges of the glass will touch - first plus the foil has thickness so the glass needs to be farther apart.

At some point – such as when the pattern of flowers comes up to a grid of straight lines - the difference has to be made up.  Here the edges of the Mylar template are large enough that they can be trimmed to fit. Then the glass is cut to fit the trimmed bridge pattern piece.

Maybe it’s hard to describe hard but it’s easy to do. Really!

 The best putty to use at first is “plumber’s putty” - used for sink drains - any building supply place will have it for less the two dollars. It sticks really well and can be used over and over.

In some ways when you use putty you are “waxing up” the lamp pieces. Sort of like when they use wax to hold the cut glass pieces to a clear sheet of glass so the window can be held up and the glass can be seen as it will actual look.

 But on the Unimold the reason is totally different. It is nice to have the light through the mold but because of the fiberglass the subtle colors aren’t going to show.

What you want is to be able to squish and mush the glass around with the putty until the lines are even enough to live by - then cut the bridge pieces out - put them in and solder everything together - while the lines look the best.

If you have made an attempt to sand the bottom edge a little smaller then the top of the glass then the pieces will fit tighter and the pattern will spread less, if the glass isn’t beveled and the pattern spreads more. But either way the bridge pieces take up the differences

 To start hold the starter pattern inside the translucent mold and trace the design on the outside of the mold.

So now you have three drawings - one on the mold - one on regular paper, to set the glass on - and one out of Mylar, that you cut up for the glass pieces.

The basic steps are to cut out some of the glass from the  pattern pieces - and grind it - then using plumbers putty the stick it in place. Grind the glass pieces fit as nice as you can.
 
It is easer if there is a grid or repeating pattern when finding a place to match up the bridge pieces.  You are going to have to make some bridge placement decisions especially if you have used several design elements.

I don’t cut the bridge pieces until I have all the other pieces cut, ground, foiled, and puttied in place. Then I trace the opening in the glass on the Mylar pattern put a “leg” of putty under the Mylar piece push the pattern piece down until it is even with the bottom of the glass pieces. Look to see if the outside edges of the pattern piece parallel the glass as reasonably possible and the size is right

I suppose you could solder some of the foiled pieces together like small birds or something hard to hold together   - but I would really try to avoid any soldering until the whole panel is soldered at once. 

I use two types of putty for “legs” the plumbers putty until I get to the soldering part I use a mixture of wax and gum aribic or use Odyssey’s tacky wax. Their wax is really sticky so be careful you make really small “legs” or it will stick so tight you will have to heat the mold it to get the panel off. It’s best to use the wax when you solder because the plumber’s putty can get into the weld.

I usually make panels if the design repeats because I find it easier to make the panels. You could do the whole mold at once.

I will describe the process farther later and will answer any questions.