Hello Folks- First things first...... We make ribbons and that is what we do best.  We do not repair or service the machines.   We have six typewriter guides listed in the reviews and guides section, and we want to make it clear that these guides are just informational guides.  Just about all of the information provided in the six guides are can be found for free on the Internet.  We are providing this free information as a courtesy, should you need specific information we will do our best to assist you.  We have found the one of the most passionate typewriter collectors and aficionados out there is Mr Richard Polt.   Without his hard work and dedication the information provided in the guides would not be possible.  eBay policy does not allow for us to provide web sites outside of eBay, so please feel free to email and we will be happy to provide Mr Polt's email address and website.

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Improving paint, metal, and rubber

The typical deep-black color of an early typewriter consists of lacquer, which is quite difficult to restore. Enamel paint was introduced in the 1920s. Typewriters also have many metal parts which are susceptible to rust and discoloration. The shiny metal parts of older typewriters are nickel-plated; newer machines are chrome-plated.

• Rust removal should be attempted by the gentlest method first. In order from gentlest to roughest, Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish (available at auto supply stores); superfine steel wool (try to avoid getting the steel filings into the mechanism); rougher steel wool; a synthetic scrubbing pad; a rotary tool (such as a Dremel) with a wire brush attachment (wear eye protection, as bits of wire will fly off); a rotary tool with a cratex attachment (rubber impregnated with a tough material). The cratex attachments do a great job of removing rust, but they will leave a mark; use them for initial heavy rust removal, then finish with a wire brush to smooth out the finish.
• "For minor rust removal, try using an electric eraser (also known as an 'architect's eraser'). Koh-I-Noor and Staedtler both make fairly inexpensive models with a variety of eraser refills. The gray, ink erasers are the most aggressive. The soft, white refills are especially good for removing light surface dirt and oxide layers (practice on a tarnished penny!)."
• Here's a really easy way to touch up small spots of black paint (which is by far the most common color on early typewriters): use a permanent black marker. This is easy to apply, lies flat on the surface, and can make a big difference. Despite the term "permanent," it is also easier to remove than paint.
• What if you want or need to use real paint? Touch-up paint for cars, which is sold in tiny bottles in auto shops, can be handy here. It dries to a glossy finish and is not thick or clumpy, as long as it's shaken enough in advance. But take a good look at your typewriter in the sunlight after this paint has dried -- you may find that it's not really as black as the original paint.
• "The paint pen to use is Uni-Paint medium line PX-20 (or fine line if you prefer) Opaque Oil Base marker. You can order them at Staples in just about any color of the rainbow.They only take a day or two to get." -- Robert Nelson
• "For coatings touch up, ensure that surfaces are free of oils, buff exposed substrate materials with an abrasive pad, and recoat with nail polish. The 'anchor tooth' from abrading will ensure adhesion, but your requirements probably won't be higher than a simple visually detected surface profile. Nail polishes come in many shades, so you should be able to get your exact match. Also, they have a tendency to set up a little thicker than some of the automotive paints, which adds to the depth and luster of the color to better simulate the multiple layer effect of lacquers." -- Paul Dobias
• "Goo Gone" can remove unwanted paint that has been added by a previous owner, revealing the original paint and decals below.
• Many early typewriters are decorated with pinstripes -- often these are thin parallel lines of blue and yellow and you can find pinstriping decals at many hobby shops.
• Bits of gold may be missing from the decals or lettering. One amateurish solution is to touch them up with a fine-point metallic gold marker. This is easily scratched off, but for the beginner that's probably a virtue. The metallic marker really can improve the neatness of your typewriter if it's used wisely.
• Another metallic marker tip: the silver metallic markers can be used to cover up small patches of rust that have worn away the nickel. This is not a durable covering, and it won't be glossy like the nickel -- however, the change in color may really improve the overall appearance of the nickeled part.
• You can visit your local hardware store in search of rubber parts that will work as feet. Sometimes a rubber stopper will be ideal (tip: squeeze the big end in first, not the small end). Andy McWilliams writes that this item worked perfectly to replace the feet on a Remington portable #5 (and they will probably work on similar Remington portables): 27/32 x 9/32 inch slip joint washers.
• Another possibility is refurbishing the old rubber feet. Carl Strange recommends "a product called Plasti Dip, which is usually thought of as a coating for hand tools; it gives new life (and restored bulk, to say nothing of a rubbery grip) to emaciated typewriter feet. A can costs about $8. I used it on a 1941 Underwood Champion and my dear old Underwood 11 with very satisfactory results."
• Replacement leather handle straps (for cases) can be cut from used leather belts. Nice replacement leather handles are also available at some music stores, as they are used on instrument cases.

Please remember that these are recomendations that have been provided by several good folks.  A big thank you to Rob Bowker, Gregory Fischer, Paul Dobias, Lynn Myers, Joseph Pierson, George Prytulak, Paul Ross, Lane Welch, and Peter Weil and especcially Richard Polt.