TYPES OF FILTERS
With so many filter choices, this part of aquarium set-up can get pretty confusing! Each filter has its own special qualities that make it ideal for certain tanks. Read on below to see how each filter works, and whether or not it's a good choice for your aquarium!

CANISTER FILTERS
Great for tanks between 20 to 400 gallons or more when used in multiples, Canister Filters provide ultra-quiet, efficient filtration, and are easily hidden underneath your tank!
Other Stats:
* Provide excellent mechanical and chemical filtration because water is forced through the media- it cannot bypass the media at all, so you can be sure your water is thoroughly filtered.
* Canister filters feature hose intakes and returns, so there are no bulky boxes hanging off your tank and you can place it directly against a wall if you desire.
* Canister filters may not provide optimum biological filtration, so additional means of biological filtration may be necessary.
* Pick and choose a variety of media to match your needs; most canister filters have plenty of room for lots of different medias.
* Most canister filters have easy disconnect valves, allowing easy, mess-free cleaning and maintenance.
* Some canister filters have prefilters to keep larger debris from clogging the main filter, and some have special filter cartridges available for polish cleaning.
* Quieter than hang-on filters

 
DIATOM FILTERS
These special filters are not recommended for long-term, every-day use. Specially designed to mechanically filter the tiniest of particles, Diatom filters are excellent for once-a-week polish cleanings.
Other Stats:
* The filter media, diatomaceous earth, is able to filter out extremely small particles, even as small as the parasite ich!
* Because they filter out such small particles, if used on a long-term basis, they would clog in only a few hours.
* Diatom filters do not provide any biological or chemical filtration, and should only be used on a from time-to-time basis.

POWER / HANG ON FILTERS
The most popular and easy-to-use of all filters, Power filters come in an array of sizes, perfect for smaller tanks of 10 to 80 gallons. Most of these filters will provide all 3 types of filtration!
Other Stats:
* These filters usually function using pre-cut, pre-fabricated filter cartridges with media and foam all in one. Changing them is a snap!
* Many of these filters contain only one moving part, the revolving impeller within the motor!
* Because these filters hang on the tank, your tank placement is somewhat limited, and must be farther away from walls.

 
SUBMERSIBLE FILTERS
Perfect for a turtle tank, or just for a little added filtration and water circulation, Submersible filters can be fully submerged beneath your tank water! Most models provide mechanical filtration, though chemical can be added quite easily to some, as well. Biological filtration is very minimal, if at all, so be sure to have other sources! Best for tanks under 40 gallons.
Other Stats:
* Filter media is usually pre-cut and simple to replace.
* These filters allow you to place your tank closer to a wall.

 
UNDERGRAVEL FILTERS
The primary use for an undergravel filter in and aquarium is for biological filtration. Undergravel filters consist of a perforated plate that sits underneath the aquarium gravel forming a void between your aquarium gravel and the bottom of the aquarium. Riser tubes connect the void underneath the gravel bed to the top of the open aquarium. Water is either drawn up the riser tubes using an air pump and air stones, or sucked up the riser tubes with the use of a powerhead (small submersible pump). This process forces the aquarium water to flow evenly through your gravel bed, bacteria colonizes the gravel bed providing excellent biological filtration for the aquarium.
Other Stats:
* For best results, always siphon your gravel every 2 weeks to keep debris from building up.
* When properly maintained, undergravel filters prevent the build-up of harmful hydrogen sulfide gas within your gravel. Water being pulled through the gravel to the undergravel filter plate allows the gravel to be properly aerated and agitated, rather than sitting stagnant.

 
WET/DRY FILTERS
Wet/Dry filters get their name from how they are designed to maximize biological filtration by keeping their filter media above or out of the water (dry) to increase available oxygen to the bacteria that colonize the filter. Filter design and media type can vary greatly, but all Wet/Dry filters work on the same principle. The bacteria that consume waste in the aquarium needs oxygen survive and reproduce; submerged biological filters are limited by the amount of available oxygen in the water. Filter media in a Wet/Dry filter is exposed to the air and aquarium water is passed over or through the media allowing more available oxygen for the bacteria to grow and consume more waste. Most Wet/Dry filters also incorporate a mechanical filter media to remove debris from the water providing a high performance, extremely efficient filter.
Other Stats:
* Bio-media can be anything from "bio-balls", ceramic rings, or another material with plenty of surface area for lots of bacteria growth.
* Pre-filtration is important in wet/dry filters to prevent nitrate build-up within the bio-media.
* Never remove all the bio-media at one time. Monitor your ammonia when removing any small amount of bio-media.

 
SPONGE FILTERS
Sponge filters are very simple filters that consist of a sponge with a tube that is connected to a small air pump. This filter typically sits on the bottom of the aquarium with its lift tube upright. Air is forced into the filter tube; the escaping air draws water through the sponge and up the tube. This simple process provides both mechanical and biological filtration from the water flowing through the sponge.
Other Stats:
* Great for fry tanks or med tanks because they do not have any powerful intake that could injure fish.
* Sponge filters work best for tanks under 30 gallons.


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