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The intent and goal of this guide is to provide some helpful tricks and hints for the Team Associated RC10T4. Some of these tips maybe basic setup, and some may be more advanced. This is meant to be for ideas only, and I am not responsible for any damages or injuries that may occur. If you find this helpful please vote YES. Thanks, and enjoy!
When I first purchased and assembled my RC10T4 I was very anxious to drive the truck in the dirt. After upgrading to a Team Novak SS Brushless System I began noticing some weak areas in the truck. I kept breaking the front caster blocks and A-arms. Here is what I have done to my truck and although it may be a tad heavier than before I am not a serious racer so I can deal with the weight.
Those are just some basic tips, and as always this is a work in progress. I will be adding photos once I take them and any and all comments and suggestions are welcome. If you want me to add your tips just let me know and I will put them up in your credit. If you found this helpful Please Vote YES.
When I first purchased and assembled my RC10T4 I was very anxious to drive the truck in the dirt. After upgrading to a Team Novak SS Brushless System I began noticing some weak areas in the truck. I kept breaking the front caster blocks and A-arms. Here is what I have done to my truck and although it may be a tad heavier than before I am not a serious racer so I can deal with the weight.
1. Install RPM’s Front A-arms and bulkhead for an RC10GT2 kit number 70762. You will also need to get the outter pins for a GT2 as well to attach the caster block and steering. (You can also cut your T4 pins but I don’t recommend it.) This will greatly increase the strength you have in the front of the car.
2. Install RPM’s T4 bumper or mini bumper to help reduce impact to the front of the truck. I installed the bumper and the mini bumper and it works great. Depending on your front height setup the bumper may actually be in the way and cause more roll overs (play with configuration and see)
3. Don’t use the blue aluminum screws in areas way be subjected to stress. Yes they will make your car a bit lighter, but you are better off going with stainless steel or stock screws for the strength. I have bent and snapped aluminum screws in spots that the steel screws have never been an issue.
4. Loc-tite screws so that they do not back their way out while the truck is in motion. I have also found that putting a small amount on the pinion gear before screwing it down also does an amazing job keeping that gear in place.
5. If you are going to run HPI or other hex wheels you will need a hex conversion kit. The HPI superstar wheel conversion is an ok option but there are other options. Some HPI wheels come with the hex piece already, you can also order the pieces from Traxxas as well for less money than the superstar wheel setup. Keep in mind that the new RC10T4 has 3/8” rear axels, and the holes in wheels etc may be 1/4” so you may need to drill the hole to fit.
6. MIP CVDs are a great replacement to dogbones in the rear, but to make sure the pins and screws don’t fall out find a piece of shrink wrap and slide it onto the shaft where everything connects. Once it shrinks it will provide a very sturdy layer of protection.
7. If you are running a brushless system you may notice the standard Tamiya clips become hard to unclip after running. I have actually melted clips together before, so you may want to convert the whole setup to W.S. Dean’s clips. These are a lot stronger and won’t melt together. If you are not comfortable soldering please ask someone who knows what they are doing to help you.
8. If you have a tendency to bend turn buckles you may want to invest in Lunsford’s Titanium turn buckle set. They are a lot stronger and more than worth the price. I have also found that RPM Ball cups greatly reduce the slack within the stock steering. They are harder to snap on, but they don’t move as much once installed. Mix that with Team Associated’s stronger steering spring and bearing steering kit you will much better steering control on road and off-road.
9. Pay attention to whether you have Plastic or graphite / carbon parts on your truck. The plastic is a lot more forgiving when you hit rocks etc. Yes the graphite is lighter, but you have to replace everything with graphite to get any weight savings at all. If you have graphite parts and keep breaking them over and over pick up some plastic pieces. They cost usually less, are stronger, and may make the difference between having a good time and being frustrated.
9. Pay attention to whether you have Plastic or graphite / carbon parts on your truck. The plastic is a lot more forgiving when you hit rocks etc. Yes the graphite is lighter, but you have to replace everything with graphite to get any weight savings at all. If you have graphite parts and keep breaking them over and over pick up some plastic pieces. They cost usually less, are stronger, and may make the difference between having a good time and being frustrated.
Those are just some basic tips, and as always this is a work in progress. I will be adding photos once I take them and any and all comments and suggestions are welcome. If you want me to add your tips just let me know and I will put them up in your credit. If you found this helpful Please Vote YES.
Guide created: 05/06/07 (updated 10/03/09)
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