A great list of tips and tricks for working with strip/plank hardwood flooring.  Installing yourself doesn't have to be an impossible task!

TIPS FOR STRIP/PLANK FLOORING

Use personal protective equipment as recommended by manufacturer.

Generally used floor sanding grits:
Very Coarse - 20, 24, 30, (open coat)
Coarse - 36, 40
Medium - 50, 60, 80
Fine - 80, 100, 120
Very Fine - 120, 150

• The sanding operation should remove a minimal amount of wood, less than 1/32"
• If a medium grit will level the floor or remove old finish on the first cut, it is not necessary to use the more aggressive coarse grit for the first pass.
• For rougher floors the coarser grits are recommended.
• If the floor is uneven, cupped or crowned and no moisture problem exists, make the first rough cut at a 45° angle to the direction of the flooring. Make succeeding cuts parallel to the direction of the flooring.
• Use the same grit paper on both the 45° cut and the first rough cut.
• If a slight hollow or deep scratch is present in the floor, make multiple angle passes forward and backward across the area. Start the first pass at a 30° angle to the hollow or scratch. Work from both the front and back of the blemish. Repeated landings made directly across the blemish make it larger. After the blemish is removed, sand the area with the grain to straighten all sanding marks.
• Always carry a soft lead carpenters pencil while sanding, and immediately mark exposed nails, slight hollows, excessive scratches, holes to be filled, etc. Pencil marks across the floor before the intermediate sanding cuts also show if the entire floor was sanded.
• To change from coarse to medium to fine grits, do not skip more than one intermediate grit. (i.e. 40 skip 50 use 60, 60, skip 80 use 100)
• A sanding disc on the buffer is more aggressive than screening. Use the next finer grit when discing to avoid swirl scratches.
• CAUTION: Some strippers contain wax and other chemicals which can interfere with the finish. Check with the manufacturer.
• When buffing sealers/stains, or between finish coats, always start in an inconspicuous place or a closet. A new pad can aggressively cut too deep and remove stain, producing a lightened area, or remove too much finish and not give adequate finish thickness.
• When using a white or brown buffing pad to buff stain/sealer, check the pad frequently for discoloration which can mean the stain/sealer is not dry and that additional drying is needed.
• It is not always necessary to bleach before using a white stain. The desired white color may be achieved by the stain only. Staining without bleaching is easier and more trouble-free and does not soften the surface of the wood.