Material
Leather is, of course, the choice for the traditionalist, but more exotic materials like python, crocodile, and ostrich hides are readily available. These different fabrics not only feature a distinct texture and color, but they stretch, breath and wear differently. Care for each type of material may differ significantly as well, so be sure to consult the instructions with each new pair to get the most out of them.
Style
While there are literally 1000’s of different styles, western boots generally fall into two types, traditional and fashion boots. Traditional boots (most made in the good ole USA) like those from Lucchese, Frye, Justin, and Tony Lama, are functional as well as stylish and feature classic design elements that have remained in style for decades.
Heel Height
One of the main reasons those cowboys look so imposing in the old westerns is that the average cowboy’s boot has a heel that just under 2 inches in height. Heels heights on some of the newer offerings range from nearly flat to the 4-inch stiletto style. The traditional western boot has a heel that is usually about 1¾ inches in height, designed to be fit well in stirrups.
Chances are you won’t be riding into town on a trusty steed, so whichever heel height you choose, the most important thing is to be sure that you can walk in them. For most women, walking in a pair of boots will be a lot easier than a pair of high heels, but it might take a little getting used to for the guys.
The ‘Charlie 1 Horse’ by Lucchese comes with a 3+ inch stiletto for the lady who wants a view from the top. Conversely, Reaction by Kenneth Cole’s 'Urban Cowgirl' have almost no heel and are better suited to walking to the subway.
Shank Style
The shank is the upper part of the boot and they can vary in height and style nearly as much as the color and material. Traditional western boots cover the calf, while ‘packer’ and ‘stockman’ styles are slightly lower. However, shorter boots, reaching the mid calf or even to just above the ankle are becoming very popular again, especially for the women. You can often also choose from literally thousands of different styles and colors of piping and stitching designs.
A great example of the Roper style is the Dan Post Bull Leather “Western Roper” made of bull leather Brown. Again, the 1883 by Lucchese, no matter what it’s made out of, are the classic American cowboy boot.
Toe Style
The final thing to take into consideration is the toe style. While both men’s and women’s shoes have been trending toward longer and more-pointed toes for the past few years, the cowboy boots primary function has given them pointed toes since their beginnings. Again, the traditional western boots have a very pointy toe, while “ropers” and “worker” style boots will be slightly more rounded. More modern boots boast everything from square cut and French toes.
Frye’s 'Austin Cut Out' boots for women have a more rounded toe while Dan Post 'DPP3524' Square Toe boots have a more modern style.
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