eBay Guides - The World War II Army Uniform

With the advent of several realistically produced films and mini-series based on World War II, America, in general, has begun to take an avid interest in military items from the period. In recent years, uniforms, specifically Class A dress uniforms, have seen a dramatic rise in collector interest. Years ago collectors only wanted been there combat utilities and gear. However, with Band of Brothers , Saving Private Ryan, and Flags of Our Fathers boistering the market, dress uniforms have become a less expensive endeavor for the beginning collector. This guide is intended as a WWII uniform primer for those who have recently decided to enter the militaria hobby. Every militaria collector will have different opinions on authentic styles, application techniques, and production methods, so please don't take everything here as spot on for all occassions. This brief guide is intended to give the new collector some things to look for when purchasing an AUTHENTIC period uniform.

Authentic vs. Put-Together As one could imagine, there were millions of uniforms produced by several dozen different manufacturers during World War II. Needless to say, there was also quite a bit of unissued stock remaining as well. As prices began to rise on dress uniforms, several folks saw the profit that could be made by dolling up a plain Jane officer's coat or enlisted jacket. Coats representing Airborne and other specialty units are especially suspect. For example, take a plain officer's Ike style jacket, use period thread and patch, add ribbons, a Combat Infantry badge, etc. and you have a uniform that could command in the upwards of 1000 dollars. This is why the number one tip for all collectors new to the hobby is to purchase reference books, check out reference websites, and to go to shows that handle genuine merchandise. The more you immerse yourself in the hobby, the more one can detect the outright fake from the historical period piece. If a buyer is still unsure about an item, buy only from the reputable dealers and check with other collectors in the hobby as to who the good guys are and check dealer feedbacks. Caveat Emptor must be your creed when entering any new hobby.

Features of Authentic Army Class A Uniforms

Patches - Patches of the World War II era will be cut edge in construction (not merrowed) that are made of cotton. A simple hand held UV light ($10-15) will reveal if the item is cotton or a more mordern synthetic material copy. If it glows, there is a 90% chance that it is post WWII. However, after washings in certain detergents or treatments, even a WWII patch may glow slightly.
Thread - Most WWII uniforms used khaki, dark green, or black cotton thread to apply divison and qualification patches. Since UV lights won't help with darker threads, some collectors take tiny snips of a thread to use in a small flame. If it shrivels, it is post war, plastic synthetic thread. If it burns like a candle wick, it is cotton. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD. It is much easier to determine authenticity by looking at other features.
Ribbonry - An authentic period piece will have ribbons that do not glow under UV light. Furthermore, these ribbons will be placed on an authentic period bar. Bars of the WWII era will be either pin back or clutch back in design. If it is pin back, check the ribbons for correct order of precedence and for telling signs of age that they have been on there for awhile. If the bar is a clutch back, check for signs of age, but also check the clutches. Clutches with dimples are generally post war, but the bar may still be WWII era since clutches fell off and were replaced at all times.
Rank Insignia and Chevrons - For officers' coats, most rank insignias will be pin back and made of sterling silver. If the devices are clutchback, again, check the clutches for age (smooth faced clutches are WWII). For WWII enlisted chevrons, wool on black wool, and wool on black or very dark blue twill are the two most common designs. Wool chevrons on royal purple/blue twill are usually early post-war designs used into the Korean war era.
Branch Insignia and Enlisted Collar Brass - Officers' branch insignia are generally clutchback during WWII, although early war screwback and pinback designs exist in great numbers. If it is screwback or pinback, it is most generally period. Post-war clutchback items are usually marked with codes like GI-12 or V-23 codes to determine manufacturer. Again, check for dimpled or smooth faced clutches on these. Enlisted collar brass will normally be made of a thin stamped brass, two piece clutchback construction, although screwback varieties (early war) are common as well.
Qualification Badges, Combat Infantry Badges, Wings, Etc. - These are an entirely separate hobby in their own right -do an internet search- you will find many sites dedicated just to these-, however a simple trick of the trade is to check for sterling marked items. Many manufacturers signed their products with the company name (not post-war Letter-Number codes) and used sterling silver as their medium. Pinbacks are generally period -although reproduced heavily- and the clutchbacks are generally late war- early post war.
Tagging - To determine the date of a coat or jacket, tagging is most usually still present. In an enlisted man's coat, check the front right pocket for a manufacturer's tag. If it is an Ike styled jacket, look on the interior pockets as well. For an officer's coat, generally check the interior pockets for specification and taylor labels. MOST tags will have a pattern date and a manufactruing date. The later date is the date it was produced.
Named Items - Most WWII uniforms are named in one way or another. Officers took great pride in their uniforms and most generally had their name stamped or written onto a taylor label. Others also used monograms of some sort on the interior lining. Please keep in mind that not all did - this is simply another feature to look out for. For enlisted uniforms, it is quite rare to find a full name listed on the interior of a jacket, but it does happen. Most commonly, a new collector will find a letter and four digits (M1234) in a coat. This is the initial of the soldier's last name and the last four digits or his Army Serial Number.
Special Features - Snaps, zippers, and the like were added to period coats during the late stages of the war and during post-war occupation. Finding a war dated Ike style coat with a zipper, doesn't make it a fake. It may simply mean the soldier had some extra cash in a post war period and wanted to alter his jacket. Snaps were generally added to pockets as well in the late war - occupational period.
Groupings - A uniform presented with a stash of items or a grouping named to the same soldier is always a plus. Not only does the uniform take on more a human element, it is most commonly attributed and assigned its proper history. Be weary, though. Currently several dealers have even stooped so low as to put groupings together as well. Again, buyer beware is your best practice.

Final Tip - Practice - There is no rule against purchasing cheaper period items. In fact, many new collectors simply browse the Ebay uniform sales to find $10-20 coats so that they can get a feel for a period piece. One of the great things about this hobby is that one can pick up a veteran owned and named coat with all of its brass, ribbonry, etc. for $10-$40. As one gets used to how these uniforms look and feel, in time one will feel more confident in purchasing the rarer uniform items.

Putting It All Together - In the end, no one factor can determine a uniform's authenticity. The collector must look at the uniform as a whole. As a less experienced collector, look over the coat for its appearance and condition. If everything looks absolutely brand new and pristine, does it seem like it would be a uniform worn by a combat veteran 60 years ago? In the end, common sense becomes the buyer's greatest asset in finding period items. By getting an overall feel for the coat and by checking the specific areas above, one has a greater chance of obtaining quality, period items.