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The Master Cigar Guide "Demystified"

by: hunt_n_stuff( 1689Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999)
11 out of 12 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 799 times Tags: humidor | humidity | gel humidifier | tobacco | cigar



Distilled Water vs. Tap Water


Every humidor contains some kind of humidifying element. It is important that distilled water be used with this element because tap water causes mold to form and contains minerals that can destroy the effectiveness of some humidifiers. I know there are others on eBay that say you can use tap water, but think about it.  Do you use tap water in an iron, or if you live in the north just look at the humidifier on your furnace in the winter time.  Look at all the white mineral deposits that cause you to buy new filters.  Only the water evaporates the minerals stay behind and clog your humidifier.  Even worse is that tap water accelerates MOLD.  A cigar’s worst nightmare!    It is always a good idea to check the humidor’s moisture level at least once a week and make sure that no patches of mold have started to form on the cigars. If mold has started to form, the offending cigars should be removed and the humidor should be cleaned with a dry cloth and aired out. A light-gray dusting of bloom on the wrapper is permissible because that is a sign that the cigar is properly aging.
 

Choosing a Humidor


The purpose of a humidor is to recreate the mild, humid climate of the Caribbean, where the cigars are made. 

After you’ve had time to consider your preferences, decide on where you’d like to buy the humidor; eBay offers some great deals and you can get ripped off as well.   Make sure that the humidor is real Spanish cedar and not just the inserts are cedar or worse Maple. You do not need Spanish Cedar in you humidor for humidity control. And I know there are some on eBay that say Maple if fine. I would have to agree if you are smoking cheap cigars.  But then why not just use a Tupperware container and save the cost of a cheap Humidor.  The Spanish Cedar is used to help the aging of good cigars.  Using Maple in a Humidor would be the same as using Maple barrels to age a 20 year old Scotch. It just would not taste the same.  

If it has glass in it make sure it is real tempered glass and not acrylic (Plastic). 

It has to have a good seal or it will not hold the proper humidity.  Here is a quick and easy way to check how good your humidor's seal is.  Empty it, place an lit flashlight inside, close the lid, and inspect it in a dark room.  If there are any leaks or gaps, the light will shine right through.


If it comes with a built-in humidification, you’ll want to decide whether to keep that one or buy a humidification device. Also, decide if and what type of thermometer/hygrometer device you may want to use to monitor the humidity. 

Hygrometers

The hygrometer is a device used for measuring the relative humidity inside of your humidor. There are two varieties.


Analog - This is the standard type of hygrometer. They are the least expensive and also the least reliable. They operate with a needle controlled by a hairspring that points to the correct percentage of humidity.
Digital - Far more reliable, is the digital hygrometer.  It operates on a standard camera or watch battery and digitally reads the humidity as well as the temperature. This device is by no means perfect, but is still much more accurate than the analog hygrometers. They also give you temperature which is as important as humidity.

 

Seasoning your Humidor

 
Now that you have your new humidor, you’re ready for cigars.  Not really, choose a moist area that has somewhat of a constant temperature to put your humidor in.  Don’t go crazy, but be certain to keep it away from direct heat which may result in dryer cigars. 

To season your humidor, take a new sponge (make sure that it is unscented and free of soap) soaked with distilled water and wipe down all the inside surfaces. Wipe down all the exposed wood, including dividers, and the interior lid. Avoid using a paper towel or a fraying cloth; these will literally leave a paper trail on the wood.

After you've wiped down the wood, squirt the sponge with more distilled water. Then place it inside the humidor on a plastic bag.  Avoid direct contact with the wood and close lid.
 
Use only distilled water. Tap water contains minerals that will destroy most humidification systems by leaving deposits that will clog the humidor element.

Once the humidification element is filled be sure to wipe it down to remove any excess water. Rest it on a hand towel for approximately 30 minutes. Close the humidor with the humidifying element and the damp sponge, and leave it over night.

The next day refresh the humidification device (You will not need to if you are using one of my gels) and check the sponge. If it is fairly dry, add more distilled water. However, if very damp, leave it alone.

Let the humidor sit another night, and then remove the sponge and the plastic bag.
 
The walls of the humidor have now absorbed all the water they need, and now you can safely store your cigars.
 

Humidity

Finally, check the cigars and humidity regularly. Cigars need to have the air circulate in order to avoid mold from too much moisture. Lastly, keep the cigars in the humidor until you’re ready to smoke them.
Don't become too concerned about relative humidity. Cigar smoking is meant to be relaxing; stressing over your humidor humidity level is a waste of time! The goal is to keep it stable… your cigars will be just fine anywhere between 60% and 72%. In my opinion, they smoke best around 65-69%, but they are not going be harmed at a few points higher or lower. The goal is to find what you like and to maintain that level.


The ideal storage condition for a cigar is approximately 65 to 70% humidity at 68 - 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Air at different temperatures will hold completely different amounts of moisture. Warm air can hold a tremendous amount of moisture. If your cigars are stored in a warm place, you will have to continuously add water to the humidifier. The result will be very spongy cigars. Cold air holds almost no moisture. Air with 70% humidity will be dry at freezing temperatures. Relative humidity is defined as the percentage of the maximum amount of water that air can hold at a given temperature without condensation. As a general rule, when the air temperature is reduced from 68 degrees by one degree, the humidity should be increased by 1%, and vice versa. Therefore, if your cigars were stored at 58 degrees Fahrenheit, the humidity should be kept around 80%.

A cigar that is dry smokes:
Hot, Fast, Unevenly.

A cigar that is too moist will:
Be hard to puff, Allow mold to form and/or the wrapper will swell and split open.
 
 
 


The Great Cellophane Debate:


Here’s the question: when storing cigars in a humidor, should they be removed from their cellophane wrappers, or not?


This is almost like asking who is the greatest baseball player of all time . . . no two people you ask will have the same answer. For example:


Many connoisseurs, including the noted experts at the Gerard Pere et Fils store in Geneva, Switzerland, campaign vigorously against keeping cigars in cellophane on the grounds that without it, cigars will “breathe” better and reach their peak of flavor.


Others, especially Hong Kong collector Min Ron Nee, whose “An Illustrated Encyclopedia of Post-Revolution Havana Cigars” is one of the wonderworks ever written on the subject, are just as strident in their belief that cigars can age perfectly in cellophane – especially over longer periods – and that there is no reason to remove it.


A third view, and the one I subscribe to, is tempered by an aversion to risk in storing cigars. In specific, the danger of tobacco beetles. These pests are latent in tobacco leaves, right through the cigar-making process. However, they are most often (but not always) prone to hatch when temperatures reach about 80 degrees (F) or more. If they do, they are liable not only to bore through the cigar they are in, but to jump to adjoining cigars if they are able.  Nothing will break the heart of a smoker more than to open a box of beautiful cigars and see them reduced to dust by beetles which have run wild through an entire box. To prevent this:  Ensure, as much as possible, that your cigars are stored in conditions which are both humidity-controlled and temperature-controlled. If your humidor is not temperature controlled, at least keep it away from direct sunlight, which will heat your cigars.


Keep the cellophane on your cigars in order to ensure that if a beetle does hatch, it has an added barrier – the cellophane wrapping – in moving from cigar to cigar. This is especially important in humidors in which multiple brands are stored together.


One more reason to consider keeping your cigars in the cellophane in which they were packed is if you remove cigars from your humidor and place them in a case for travel. In some cases, cigars can be squeezed together and the jostling inside a suit pocket or in your briefcase can cause wrappers to rub against each other and possibly end up chipped or broken. This will not happen to cigars which are placed in a case with their cellophane wrappers intact.

 

Misc random cigar ideas


1) A great way to keep your cigar burning evenly is to rotate the slow-burning side to the bottom. I know this seems odd, but the bottom side will burn faster because the oxygen needed to feed the flame isn't being displaced by the smoke. Try it and see!
First thing to try is to gently squeeze and massage it; many times this will loosen the bunch enough to fix the problem. But if that doesn't work, go for the gusto and use a skewer or ice pick to just poke a hole through its length. Word of warning though: Do this before you light it and be very careful!
 
2) To prevent your cigar from going out between puffs, give it a couple of extra quick, short draws coupled with quick exhales before you take a long draw of smoke to savor against your palate each time. You will be amazed at how this simple practice helps to improve any difficult burning cigar.
 
3) Your butane lighter doesn't seem to be working as well as it used to? Purge it! What does this mean? Purging is simple: Next time your lighter is empty, depress the fill stem and allow the air that is trapped within the empty gas reservoir to be expelled. You will know it is properly purged when you cease to hear any hissing.
 
4) It is best to wait five minutes or so after a cigar is lit before you try to remove the band. The heat of the cigar will loosen any glue that may have come in contact with your cigar's wrapper and will prevent you from tearing the leaf as your remove the ring.
 
5) Want to relight a cigar that you left sitting for awhile? The best way to do this is tap off any remaining ash, and then gently blow through the cigar to clear any stale air. Then, as you light it, continue to blow gently through the cigar with the flame at the foot for about three seconds before you take your first draw. Doing this simple set of actions will greatly reduce any initial sour flavor from a relit cigar.
 
If you liked any of these suggestions send me a note and let me know.
 
Thanks
 
Larry
 
 

Guide ID: 10000000004391401Guide created: 09/12/07 (updated 05/22/08)

 
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