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The Collector's Guide to Military Miniatures

by: hermesminiatures( 282Feedback score is 100 to 499) Top 5000 Reviewer
14 out of 20 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 3113 times Tags: Models | Miniatures | Built


Many of us collect models and figures from famous battles and wars long ago - and when the miniatures are well done, it can make you feel as if you were almost there when it happened. Here's a breif guide about what to buy and what not to buy, and how to display your collection so it looks its very best.

The first thing is that no one is impressed by a lot of crude pieces, as opposed to having a few good ones. People like to see models that look like the real thing, not ones that look like a plastic model. Don't buy diecast models like the ones from Franklin Mint or Forces of Valor - they are generally crude, since the details are often compromised to make them strong enough to be usable as toys. If you want models you can play with on the rug, go buy some plastic army men.

Don't buy models from self-professed "Professional Modelers". Anyone can deceive themself into thinking a model is great just because they built it. Look for people whose models have won awards at shows or been praised by some modeleing expert - they will most likely be the best quality you can get. 

Don't buy figures that look questionable in photos - because they will look worse in real life. Clever photography can hide a lot of mistakes. Shading is essential - even though some modelers don't think so. It makes details that you couldn't see without a scale light source easier to see. And although some collectors like parade-ground-perfect miniatures, most figures wear combat uniforms. Every figure should have at least a little dirt, and nothing makes him look more like a combat soldier. White uniforms are the most obvious example - even when they're new, the color is more of a very ight tan.

While figures sealed with clear flat look the best, the paint is also more fragile. Semi-gloss is fine, if you'll be handling your men a lot - it will protect the finish.

One of the best ways to draw attention to your models is to add some figures - people who could care less about your models will see the "people" and want to find out what they're doing. Eating lunch, refueling, fixing something, fighting, resting - the list is endless, and so are the kits. Appropriate figures should be easy to find. A good price for a 1/35 plastic figure, properly built and painted, is about $30. A resin or white-metal figure should go for $40-$50. Ask sellers what brand the figures are. Dragon, Tristar, Verlinden, Warriors, and Alpine Miniatures all make good figures. Generally, you should avoid figures by Academy, Tamiya, Testors, Italeri, and Trumpeter, since they are usually out of scale, lack detail, or are incorrectly proportioned.

Never buy a hand-painted model. Always insist on airbrushed models, or ones painted with an aerosol can at worst. Nothing looks worse than brushmarks and thick paint. Of course this doesn't apply to figures, since they are all hand-painted.

I personally CAN NOT STAND sellers who spend two-thirds of their listing on "look how cool this guy looks check out that detail" etc., etc., and the other third of it saying things like "when you get the model  you don't know whether to laugh or cry". It is okay to say that your work has won awards so that people know that you aren't the only one who thinks it's good, but it is NEVER okay to mock other modelers' hard work. Everyone has to start somewhere.

Finally, don't be a penny-pincher! One quality model on your shelf is better than three or four bad ones you could have bought for the same amount. After all, if you're concerned about money, you can get "models" at Wal-Mart for only $15 :)

Good luck collecting, and see you on eBay!

Guide ID: 10000000001413615Guide created: 07/18/06 (updated 07/14/08)

 
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