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When you've shown and groomed horses for 30+ years you learn a thing or two about grooming. There are some basics that apply to all horses, and of course some specifics based on the breed. We'll provide some of the basics, but center on Arabian horses (much of this applies to the Morgan World as well.). But first the basics...

My friends all tease me because I refuse to brush manes or tails, but when you look at the difference between my gelding and the other brushed horses - you can quickly see why I have adopted the no brush rule.  On average, my gelding's mane is 4 inches longer.  When there is a snarl I finger pick through or use a little Cowboy Magic Detangler. With a little patience, I can beat the nastiest wind snarls. I have also braided manes to avoid the wind snarls - I would recommend this when your manes get extremely long. I am currently following a regimen of daily spraying with Healthy Hair Care - Hair Moisturizer on both the mane and tail (exposed parts in between resets). Bi-weekly I rub Shapley's MTG into the roots of the mane and the tail base. When resetting the tail or working through any snarls or hair "fusions", I use the Cowboy Magic detangler. Vetrolin Shine body wash and brace once a month or so to fully clean - although any cheap shampoo will do we really like the smell of Vetrolin =].

Our Favorite Products:
Shapley's MTG (tail and mane growth)
Cowboy Magic Detangle and Shine
Guartex wrap
Vetrolin Shine (body wash/brace)
Healthy Hair Care - Hair Moisturizer

Want a tail that drags for days? Try this simple technique: Start by sorting out the long hairs from the new growth along the tail bone. Some of this new growth will hang over the tail bone - that is what you want. You may want to apply some Shapley's MTG to the ends of the tail - not too much. Recently, I have been spraying the length of tail with Healthy Hair Care - Hair Moisturizer before braiding until it is damp - not wet just damp. Make sure you have some Guartex handy - Koflex or Vetrap will do in a pinch - it just doesn't last as long. Then, Starting just below the end of the tail bone, begin braiding.  Get tighter as you braid away from the bone.  Once you get to the end - another new twist that has been very successful is to wrap the length of the braid with Guard-tex - then I take the end of the braided tail and thread it through one of the openings at the top of the braid (between the tail bone end and the braid starting point).  Now wind the remaining tail through the same hole until you have a nicely folded bunch of tail (about 4-5 inches long). Next wrap around the bunch securing it horizontally first - try to keep the smallest end hairs tucked in deeply for the most protection.  Next, wrap vertically through the same braid hole securing vertically. Then continue alternating vertical and horizontal wraps until you have protected your tail bunch.  In the summer or warm months - I recommend checking and changing every one-two weeks - use Cowboy Magic Detangler when taking the tail down - let it breathe for a few hours at least if possible and wash once a month.  BE SURE THE TAIL IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE BAGGING - failure to do this may result in mildew or in severe cases breakage.  I also recommend a Tail bag that is long enough and provide some swatting abilities during bug season - this is not necessary in the winter.  The one that we like is made by Weaver Leather and is a mesh with a good swatter on the end. We have also found that an old Polo wrap is a great swatter when pulled through the braid hole and then wrapped with Guartex to keep it in place. We cut a wrap in half and then made vertical cuts on both ends - it added yet another layer of protection over the tail AND great fly swatting. A simple strip of fleece from the fabric store would provide the same result! 3-4 wide and about 2 Ft long (a yard give or take).

More coming soon...We'll update as we try and learn new products...