If you've got trailer brakes, then you know the brake controller in the truck cab is a critical part of the system. Our tagalong car-hauler trailer is 2500 lbs empty, and we can carry a little over three tons of payload on it. Our Chevrolet 1500 pickup with a 5.3L V-8 and trailer-mode on the transmission is up to the task of accelerating. We get around 13-14 MPG when the trailer's loaded.
Stopping is another matter. If you DON'T have trailer brakes with this kind of weight, you should consider getting them. When we first got this truck, we didn't have the controller, and had to make a trip without the trailer brakes. Four-wheel brakes aren't enough to stop 11,000 lbs! We needed a replacement controller for the one we sold with the old truck.
There are all sorts of models and types. The last one we had was electronic, and applied the brakes harder as long as you kept your foot on the pedal. This led to some pretty jerky full-stops. You could also use the finger-control to apply them manually, but that was kinda iffy when you were thinking about it, and completely forgotten when you were in a panic mode stop. The other end of the spectrum would be brakes that are controlled mechanically from a sensor on the trailer's hitch. We'd like to have that, but it requires, at the very least, a complete re-design and new construction of the trailer's tongue.
Tenkosha's 90185 brake controller system is pretty slick. It uses computer power to use 1) the fact that you have applied the brakes on the truck, and 2) that you are decelerating, as variables in an on-going braking voltage solution. There's an inertial sensor that is used to detect just HOW HARD you are trying to brake, and it applies more voltage to the trailer brakes as that deceleration climbs. So, in a panic stop, it promptly applies full braking voltage to the trailer's brake system to help you bring it down to a rapid halt. On the other end of the spectrum (where most of us drive), it applies just enough voltage to make a smooth stop. If you let up a bit, it lets up a bit.
There are several adjustments for upper limits, reactivity, and overrides. You still have the finger-brake capability, but I can honestly say I've never been tempted to use it, there's no point. You can set the maximum brake voltage, so the brakes don't lock up in a hard stop. Required voltage will change depending you your load, you know. You can also choose one of several braking profiles, which set just how aggressive the braking system is in assisting your braking efforts. When you come to a stop going uphill, the trailer brakes will perform as a "hill-holder" while you get underway, a nice feature for manual transmission trucks. And when you are maneuvering in the driveway, you can set the controller to an idle position, which will remain in effect for three minutes. You won't DEFEAT and forget, which could cause a big surprise when you're underway again.
Installation was easy in our truck, since we got the Trailer-Towing option on the truck, which included simple connections under the dash. We bought the optional GM cable, hooked it up, and we were in business!
This is a great unit, highly recommended! We hardly know the trailer's back there, and we've NEVER had an unpleasant braking situation.
Stopping is another matter. If you DON'T have trailer brakes with this kind of weight, you should consider getting them. When we first got this truck, we didn't have the controller, and had to make a trip without the trailer brakes. Four-wheel brakes aren't enough to stop 11,000 lbs! We needed a replacement controller for the one we sold with the old truck.
There are all sorts of models and types. The last one we had was electronic, and applied the brakes harder as long as you kept your foot on the pedal. This led to some pretty jerky full-stops. You could also use the finger-control to apply them manually, but that was kinda iffy when you were thinking about it, and completely forgotten when you were in a panic mode stop. The other end of the spectrum would be brakes that are controlled mechanically from a sensor on the trailer's hitch. We'd like to have that, but it requires, at the very least, a complete re-design and new construction of the trailer's tongue.
Tenkosha's 90185 brake controller system is pretty slick. It uses computer power to use 1) the fact that you have applied the brakes on the truck, and 2) that you are decelerating, as variables in an on-going braking voltage solution. There's an inertial sensor that is used to detect just HOW HARD you are trying to brake, and it applies more voltage to the trailer brakes as that deceleration climbs. So, in a panic stop, it promptly applies full braking voltage to the trailer's brake system to help you bring it down to a rapid halt. On the other end of the spectrum (where most of us drive), it applies just enough voltage to make a smooth stop. If you let up a bit, it lets up a bit.
There are several adjustments for upper limits, reactivity, and overrides. You still have the finger-brake capability, but I can honestly say I've never been tempted to use it, there's no point. You can set the maximum brake voltage, so the brakes don't lock up in a hard stop. Required voltage will change depending you your load, you know. You can also choose one of several braking profiles, which set just how aggressive the braking system is in assisting your braking efforts. When you come to a stop going uphill, the trailer brakes will perform as a "hill-holder" while you get underway, a nice feature for manual transmission trucks. And when you are maneuvering in the driveway, you can set the controller to an idle position, which will remain in effect for three minutes. You won't DEFEAT and forget, which could cause a big surprise when you're underway again.
Installation was easy in our truck, since we got the Trailer-Towing option on the truck, which included simple connections under the dash. We bought the optional GM cable, hooked it up, and we were in business!
This is a great unit, highly recommended! We hardly know the trailer's back there, and we've NEVER had an unpleasant braking situation.
Guide created: 01/02/07 (updated 12/14/08)


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