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Summer Suits for Southern Gents

by: wentworth-on-tradd( 1769Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 1000 Reviewer
31 out of 31 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 5396 times Tags: seersucker suit | seersucker | white bucks | pincord | white suit


Every year, in one newspaper or another, you will find an article about Seersucker Suits. Some years, it says that Seersucker is a classic- a perennial favorite- and then other years, it talks about how Seersucker is the Next Big Thing.  Almost always, though, they will tell you that seersucker is permanently rumpled and so, not too formal, and usually they will mention that it comes from the Sanskrit word Shirushakar, meaning "milk and honey" which seems to be a metaphor for the alternating textures.  There will be a mention of Atticus Finch and probably something about looking cool when you are anything but.

But you probably have seen The Article. And now you want to know more.

First, Seersucker is one of four classic summer suit fabrics for hot weather, along with poplin, (smooth broadcloth, usually in khaki or some shade of tan) linen (even more wrinkly than seersucker, best in white, but perfectly OK in beige or even blue) and pincord ( that other summer southern stripey fabric, formerly worn by  nuns and nurses).  What they all have in common is light weight and usually, light coloration, too.  Most of them are classically made from  natural fibers, though nearly all of them have been blended with something synthetic from time to time, with mixed results.  On the one hand, all natural means greater breathability, but on the other, it usually means greater absorbency, which is what makes a suit hot and sticky. Once upon a time Seersucker was made from silk, but finding a suit made from silk seersucker is a rare thing indeed- and hard to say three times, as well..

Luckily, finding a cotton  or a cotton-blend one is as easy as looking in the spring catalogue of your favorite traditional menswear company- or searching that same name on eBay.  You will find them in Blue and White, Tan and White, Grey and White, and sometimes, even Pink and White. Lately, you may have seen seersucker in tone-on tone colorations, or even solids, with the alternating textures breaking up the solid color.

But if you want the real thing, it's best to go with blue or grey.   Haspel, the New Orleans company that  is nearly synonymous with  hot weather suits, offers a  stripe on a cream ground instead of white. This is useful, because  people wear seersucker when it is hot and their hands tend to sweat and that makes the pockets and cuffs tend to get dirty. If you can get your cleaners to actually CLEAN a seersucker suit more than a couple of times, you are a lucky man indeed. For most of us, it's just a question of how long before you give up. Wise consumers try a little Scotchguard at the pocket entrances before it's too late.

Now comes the hard part.  Do you go for the Full Seersucker Rig, with white shoes and a bow tie (and maybe even a straw hat) or do you forgo the costume look and wear it with dark shoes and the same tie you wore with your navy blazer? Each look has its strong defenders.  Just remember, if you treat your clothes as a joke, other people will, too. If you can look people in the eye and say "Of course this is a straw hat, it's HOT outside" then you will be fine. If you think of it as a prop, you will always wonder who else does.   In either case, just remember to wear a shirt that contrasts. Blue oxford cloth and blue seersucker look almost identical at 20 yards and  that is not a look for most of  us.

Some seersucker suits are designed to be washed in the washing machine.  The linings are minimal and they leave out the interior parts that shrink and bunch up. This is a fine idea, so long as you have the time to let it drip dry. Otherwise, you may find your cotton suit has been "consolidated" in the dryer. If this happens, look for a smaller relative and Be Careful Next Time. And be prepared to do a little touching up with the iron.

For almost as long as there have been seersucker suits, there have been double breasted ones.  In an air-conditioned world, this is  fine. You get an elegant look in a seasonal fabric. But  in the middle of  July and August, in any of about six states, the last thing you want is another layer of fabric around your middle. If you have to wear a jacket at all, it pays to be able to leave it open from time to time.  My butler cringes any time he sees a man in an unbuttoned double-breasted jacket.  Having said that, it is a nice way to ratchet up that last notch, for example a bridegroom might go double breasted (he's going to be sweating anyway) while his groomsmen opt for single breasted.

By all means, when you have worn out one half of your seersucker suit,  don't throw the other half away.   The trousers look great with a navy blazer and  the jacket will set off a pair of  charcoal  flannels or white ducks just fine.  Our cool  cousins in California wear theirs with jeans and  tennis shirts. Go ahead, you'll look great.

Guide ID: 10000000001639279Guide created: 08/18/06 (updated 09/21/09)

 
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