Hello Folks- First things first...... We make ribbons and that is what we do best.  We do not repair or service the machines.   We have six typewriter guides listed in the reviews and guides section, and we want to make it clear that these guides are just informational guides.  Just about all of the information provided in the six guides are can be found for free on the Internet.  We are providing this free information as a courtesy, should you need specific information we will do our best to assist you.  We have found the one of the most passionate typewriter collectors and aficionados out there is Mr Richard Polt.   Without his hard work and dedication the information provided in the guides would not be possible.  eBay policy does not allow for us to provide web sites outside of eBay, so please feel free to email and we will be happy to provide Mr Polt's email address and website.

Please remember to acknowledge if this guide is helpful by clicking yes at the bottom of the page - Thanks

Did you just get a "new" old typewriter?  Now you're ready to do some actual typing with your machine! Even if you're not going to use it for everyday correspondence, it's nice to know that it's functioning and "alive" once again. You need to deal with a few issues such as inking, clean type, and alignment.

• Ribbons for most typewriters can sometimes still be found as close as your nearest office supply shop. The standard width is half an inch, and you'll find that this will work on almost all typewriters made after 1920 or so. If your typewriter in in need of ribbons you can take a look at our eBay store or www.FJAProducts.com for a long list of Typewriter ribbons.
• Odd-size ribbons: try ribbons made for computer printers, printing calculators, time clocks, and cash registers.
• Ink rollers for Blickensderfers and other ink-roller machines can be procured at a good office supply shop. Buy rollers made for printing calculators. You'll have to cut them out of their plastic housing, and the price is a little steep ($3 or $4 for one roller -- the original Blickensderfer price was 25 cents a dozen!). Your fingers will get filthy. But it'll all be worthwhile when you see what nice work your old typewheel machine can do.
• Hammonds originally came with a rubberized cloth impression strip that came between the hammer and the paper. It is usually missing or broken, but it is necessary in order to get good typing. Paul Robert recommends: "If there is a bicycle shop in your area, go there and buy one of those narrow rubber protection strips that go around the wheel to protect the inner tube from being punctured by the spokes. Cut off a piece one half inch shorter than the full length of the carriage, punch two holes on each side and you have the perfect impression strip."
• Ink pads for machines like the Williams: I want to look into this, but haven't done research yet. Don't replace an ink pad unless you really want to use the machine, as in the long run the chemicals in the ink can corrode the type! A piece of black felt cut to the right size will look very nice.
• To make sure your types will print clearly, you'll probably need to clean out the crevices of letters like "e" and "s." Try using a toothbrush first. If that doesn't work, use the tip of a pin. Be gentle, so you won't harm the type.
• For heavy-duty type cleaning, try Fedron (see above under "Initial Cleanup").
• Alignment may be a big problem in an old typewriter. The typebars may stick at the printing point, because they're too far to the right or left. The Oliver may produce especially wacky-looking work because of the nature of its typebars. The only solution is to bend the typebars back into position, using guesswork and experimentation and care. If you're lucky, you can find some specialized tools for gently bending typebars; otherwise, try pliers.

We would like to say tank you for all of the kind folks that helped with this information: Rob Bowker, Gregory Fischer, Paul Dobias, Lynn Myers, Joseph Pierson, George Prytulak, Paul Ross, Lane Welch, Peter Weil  and a big thanks especially to Richard Polt