Finding teddy bears for sale on eBay is easy.  Finding teddy bears for sale that make the bidding process easy for a potential buyer - - well, that's another story.  If you are going to list a teddy bear on eBay and want the maximum participation by potential customers, here's a few guidelines:

1 - GOOD pictures are a must.  Don't post fuzzy, out of focus, photos.  Don't post a listing without at least one picture. 

a - Single Teddies: Show the bear's face and any tags.  If  having hang tag(s) dangling makes it hard to get a good picture of the bear, move them -- but don't hide them from the camera.  If a tag is hanging from one ear and blocking a good view of the face, shift it and take your photograph from another angle. 

If possible produce a crisp shot in tight of the sewn on tag from your bear's tush (or wherever).  Regardless, describe its location, condition and content in your text.  (Note: exact location of a sewn on tag is often critical to evaluating the value of a specific maker's teddy bears.) Hang tags (around the neck, on an ear, or elsewhere) can be shown in close ups or, if clearly shown in the bear's picture, described in your text.

b - Multiple Bears: Use multiple pictures not just one massive group shot if at all possible.  A series of individual pictures (see above) or small groupings is best.  Even if you feel your audience is mom's looking for some huggables on the cheap don't skimp on pictures and text.  Don't pass up the chance to appeal to a broader bidding audience.

c - About Colors:  Sure a picture is worth . . . but, cameras and backgrounds and lighting do modify how a color appears when seen in a net picture.  If there's any doubt in your mind, describe the depth, brightness, faded nature, whatever of the colors for teddy and teddy's outfit.  Avoid being hit with negative feedback over an ivory polar bear that looked pink and was bid on as a daughter's birthday gift.

2 - Tell about the tags.  If the photo(s) don't make it clear,  state what tags there are and how they are attached.  Use all the tag guidelines noted in item 1a above.

Use the information from the tag(s).  Don't pass up the chance to say with authority: what's teddy's name, who made it, who designed it, what date or date range applies, what is its stuffing, etc.  For someone trying to find that favorite teddy from their youth or to replace the one their child lost, the maker and tag number may be critical items of information.  In Addition, the information from the tags can be used to insure you properly address many of the following guidelines.

When you address the condition of teddy and any outfit he/she is wearing, include comments on the tag(s) if you haven't already.  Residue from price tags, crumpled corners, gift giver/receiver names, fold and tears should all be noted. 

3 - Give sizes.  It's such a simple thing but, it's amazing how often there's no statement of a teddy's size -- or any indication in the photograph of whether you're looking at a 20 inch bruin or a 4 inch mini-bear. 

Putting a ruler, or a coin or other object for size comparison, in your bear's photograph is nice.  But even nicer is a clear statement of height/length standing or sitting.  For a standing bear, measure from top of the head to the heel and don't 'stretch' the truth.  If the bear is designed only to sit, measure it sitting, from tush to top of the head.  If he/she's a nice lovable and plump bear, a side to side measurement would also be suitable.

4 - Be honest.  Describe what you see, not what you wish you could see.  If your teddy doesn't have any tags that identify its manufacturer or designer, don't make claims that could lead your bidders astray. 

A teddy that looks like a Steiff bear and has a ear hole where a button might have been should be described in those terms.  The exception would be if you can provide documentation on that teddy bear's origin and travels such as pictures or letters that take teddy from known Steiff purchase by Uncle Albert to well loved, well worn status in today's household. 

Never claim an undocumented Designer or Maker in your headline. Robert Raikes makes charming collectible bears.  But just having a carved wooden face doesn't make a bear a "Rare Raikes Find".  "Cute Raikes-like Teddy" may be a stretch but it's not a lie.

5 - Describe construction.  Of  key importance is the basic construction: is teddy stuffed (tight or loose) or does he/she have joints (a movable head, arms, legs)?  If there's nothing but a body tag that identifies the maker, basic construction is valuable information for many bidders.  For example, some makers are known for their stuffed teddy bears, but have produced exceptions which are fully jointed.  The reverse is also true. 

What is the stuffing?  Either note what's on the basic tag or state 'feels like'.  Same goes for the body covering and paw pads.  Here you may know your materials, have a tag statement or can present your 'looks/feels like' conclusions.  If there's an outfit, what's it made of?  In addition, unique construction features should be noted (particularly if they aren't clear from your pictures): humped back, open mouth, bowed legs, big feet, long spoon-like arms, eyelashes, long or fat muzzle, etc. 

6 - State condition and completeness.  'Mint' means 'just like it came from the maker'.   An 'only displayed, never played with' bear with very slight dustiness or sun damage is not 'mint'.  If you know the background on a teddy, tell all (if you don't know, say so).  Was it only on displayed, a baby room decor item or gently loved and played with?   If it's 'used' check it for rips, tears, chips, seam stitch breaks, and tell what you found.  Even if you found no problems let the bidder know that you checked.

That musky odor . . had better be mentioned.  Actually, one of the key condition factors for many bidders is odors/allergies.  Teddies are notorious for being snuggled by pets as well as children.  And, they seem to quickly soak up tobacco smoke and other  indoor airborn polution.  Again, tell it like it is, if you know that bear's background.  If not, check as best you can and tell what you think about what you found. 

If you don't know, or can't find out about, how teddy was initially sold, don't claim it has its 'original outfit'.  Keep it simple.  State what's there.  A lady looking for a specific Muffy may bid on one that's missing her shoes to have a filler for her collection.  She'll never give you her business if she can see you've lied about the outfit.  It raises questions about what else isn't true. 

A gift giving bidder may not care, a collector will -- did teddy come in a box from the maker?  Is it still with box?  What's the box's condition?  Is it all there?

Yep, under condition and completeness you need to address: the bear, any outfit, any other go withs, all tags, any box.

7 - Consolidate!  Last, but not least, sum it all up in your item TITLE.  Don't skimp but don't waste space.  Do a few searches with the key words you plan to use and see if that uncovers listings like what you want to offer.  'North American Bear Company Muffy VanderBear' has 'bear' redundantly listed and, unless you pay for a subtitle, doesn't impart much information other than you're offering one of many, many Muffy bears.  Designing your title to meet logical searches is better than assuming it will be found strictly by the category(ies) where you list your bear.

8 - PRICE can break the deal.  Be reasonable.  If teddy requires special shipping due to size, weight or odd shape, explain.  And, DO LIST shipping and handling.  Studies have shown many bidders forget to include shipping/handling costs when figuring what they'll pay for an item when they bid.  But when that grand total bill comes and it's not reasonable . . . why get into a hassle.  Remember, you bidder is using a computer and thus can go to the US Postal Service site and get shipping costs.  Don't try making a low ball starting price with offsetting shipping/handling costs.   Treat your bidders just like you'd want to be treated.