Simplified instructions for all the new techniques and tips that aid the home sewer to turn out a professional looking job, whether it's a dress, pantsuit, slipcovers or draperies.

Profusely illustrated with 1,000 step-by-step illustrations, this book begins at the beginning with a discussion of the choice of pattern and material; then progresses, step-by-step, through all the procedures of making a dress - from the moment the idea is conceived through the necessary sewing equipment, down to sewing the last button in place. The improved sewing methods described and recommended in each section of the book insure a smooth, professional finish that clearly stamps the old "homemade" look as the result of careless workmanship.

Beginner - Detailed yet easy-to-follow instructive material makes it easy for the beginner to work along with any pattern selected and master all the fundamental steps in sewing, altering, or restyling a garment.

Experienced Sewer - The experienced sewer will welcome the scores of short cuts and tips and techniques that give that custom look to your sewing - whether it's a dress or a slipcover.

Sewing Made Easy
By Dorothy Sara
Revised by Irene Gora
Original  c 1950, this is the 1977 revised edition.

This complete basic sewing guide, and old familiar friend to literally hundreds of thousands of home sewers since the 1950 edition, has now been revised for the fourth time. Changes in this edition include all the new fabrics, styles and sewing ideas of 1977.

Illustrations -  Over 400 new or redrawn illustrations have been included to take you through the pertinent steps of how to understand, use, and alter your pattern to suit your figure. Special adjustments that may have to be made in a number of areas  - bodice, shoulder line, neckline, sleeve, waist, bust  - are carefully explained as well as the tailoring steps to make pants fit correctly.

New Material  -  New in this edition is a find chapter on sewing for men and boys.  There is also supplementary material on sewing with new synthetic fibers and working with leather, sheer fabrics, and fur-like fabrics. A special section on recycling your clothes  -  restyling and creating new garments form old ones  - is especially timely, helpful and money-saving.

Complete Home Sewing Library  - Chapters on sewing children's clothes, accessories and gifts to make, and sewing for the home contribute to making SEWING MADE EASY a complete sewing library in one volume, a book both comprehensive and indispensable for any woman who sews or is anxious to learn.

The late Dorothy Sara was an experienced and knowledgeable writer of how-to books. Irene Gorn, author of popular booklets and magazine articles on sewing, is an instructor in the School of Home Economics at the University of Vermont and is associated with the McCall Pattern Company.

Contents
Introduction
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Buying Your Pattern

Choosing a pattern according to your skills  ~ Pattern sizing: understanding and determining your figure type ~ How to take your measurements  ~ Pattern ease ~ Using design lines, fabric texture, and color to flatter the figure  ~ How to analyze and use the information on the pattern envelope  ~ What you should know about fabric: characteristics, care, and uses of fabrics made from natural and man ~ made fibers  ~ Special fabric finishes  ~ Understanding and using a pattern: identifying the pattern pieces; recognizing pattern symbols and markings

The success of any sewing venture depends in a large part upon the pattern you select.

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Altering the Pattern to Suit the Figure

Techniques used to alter the paper pattern for a custom fit: lengthen bodice and skirt; shorten bodice and skirt; bust line dart adjustments; shoulder line adjustments; waistline adjustments; skirt adjustments; sleeve adjustments; neckline adjustments  ~ Special problems of adjustments with pants

The purpose of alterations is to make the garment fit well. Almost every person needs to make some small change, since no two of us have exactly the same body contours.

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Getting Ready to Sew

List of sewing supplies for cutting, sewing, measuring, marking, pressing  ~ Use and care of your sewing machine: machine stitching; tension adjustments  ~ Choosing the correct needle and thread for machine and hand sewing  ~ Preparing the fabric for cutting: recognizing grain in fabric; straightening, shrinking, and pressing fabric  ~ Following the cutting layout  ~ Marking the fabric  ~ Stay stitching  ~ Pressing techniques and aids

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How to Handle Special Fabrics

Cutting, sewing, and finishing techniques for: plaids; striped fabrics; pile, nap, or one-way fabrics; border prints; lace fabrics; sheer fabrics; wash-and-wear and permanent-press fabrics; stretch fabrics; knit fabrics; bonded fabrics; leather, suede, and leather-like fabrics; metallic and sequined fabrics; working with fur; deep-pile and fur-like fabric

Always in fashion, plaids can add interest to a simple style. In choose a plaid, considering your own coloring and figure type...

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Interfacings, Underlining, and Linings

Purpose and use of an interfacing, underlining, or lining in the garment  ~ Interlining  ~ Guide to choosing fabrics suitable for interfacings, underlining, and linings

There's more to the construction of a garment than meets the eye. It's "what's underneath" that shapes and forms the fashion silhouette.

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Putting Your Dress Together

Factory method  ~ Custom method  ~ General procedure for putting a dress together  ~ Tips for a better fit  ~ Tips for a better fit in pants
If you are a novice at sewing, you will be wise to eliminate experimenting when putting the pieces of your garment together.

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Simple Stitches, Seams, and Seam Finishes

How to tie a knot for hand sewing  ~ Securing machine stitching  ~ Methods of basting: pin ~ basting; machine basting; hand basting; even basting; uneven basting; slip ~ basting or right ~ side basting; diagonal basting; basting an edge marked "Base"  ~ Basic sewing stitches: running stitch; backstitch; combination stitch; overcasting; quick overcasting; overhanding  ~ Types of seams: plain seam; topstitched seam; lapped seam; flat felled seam; welt seam; strap seam; slot seam; French seam; mock French seam; machine-picoted seam; piped seam; corded seam; upholsterer's seam; taped seam ~ Ways of finishing seams: pinked seam; stitched and pinked seam; overcast seam; machine overcast seam; edge stitched seam; rolled seam; bound seam; double stitched seam; Hong Kong finish ~Tricks with seams

In this chapter you learn the basic sewing stitches, and the different types of seams - how they are made and where they are used.

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Darts, Tucks, and Pleats

Darts: how to make a smooth dart; finishing darts; decorative darts; where darts are used ~Tucks: how to make a tuck; dart tucks; pin tucks; cross tucking; curved tucks; shell tucks; overhand tucks ~ Pleats: how to make a pleat; side pleats; box pleats; inverted pleats; fan or sunburst pleats; accordion pleats; kick pleats; double or set-in kick pleats

Darts are used to shape clothes by controlling fullness or removing it where it is not needed.

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Neckline Finishes and Collars

Bias-faced V neckline ~ Front slashed facing ~ Shaped neck facing ~ Shaped collar: to attach collar with bias binding; to attach collar with facing ~ Straight collar with slashed neckline ~ Convertible tailored collar ~ Detachable collar ~ Collar with edging

The neckline of a garment may be finished with a collar or with a facing.

A neckline should fit perfectly before the collar or facing is attached, and any alterations made to the neckline of the garment must be made to the collar or fitted facing.

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Sleeves and Sleeve Finishes

Sleeve styles: cap sleeve; kimono sleeve; kimono sleeve with one-piece gusset; kimono sleeve with two-piece gusset; dolman or batwing sleeve ~ raglan sleeve; gathered sleeve; set-in sleeve ~ How to set in a sleeve ~Finishing the sleeve: plain hem; turnback cuff cut with sleeve; turnback cuff cut· separately; cuff applied with bias facing; tight sleeve opening faced with seam binding; band cuff

A tricky sleeve or cuff may add an interesting touch to your clothes; however, until you have gained experience and confidence in your sewing abilities, it is best to select a pattern with a simple type of sleeve.

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Facings and Hem

Types of facings: preparing the facing; stitching the facing~ understitching; bias facings; facing for a comer; facing for a slashed opening; facing for a scalloped edge; facing for a saw-tooth edge -Bandings: applied band; extended band ·Casings: elastic casing; applied casing ~ Waistline finishes: waistband; fitted facing; ribbon facing~ Hems: marking a hem; finishing a hem; hem with seam binding; tailor's hem; catch stitched hem; turned and stitched hem; faced hem; rolled hem; quick rolled hem; whipped hem; edge stitched hem; machine-stitched hem; damask hem; horsehair braid; hem in pleats Buttons, Buttonholes, Zipper Applications, and Other

The difference between the homemade look and the professional appearance of the sewing you do often depends on such details as a facing, a row of scallops, or a hem.

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Fastenings

Types of buttons ~ Making covered buttons ~ Making frogs ~ Sewing on buttons ~ Buttonholes: measuring for buttonholes; spacing ~ Bound buttonhole: patch method I; patch method II; two-piece bound buttonhole or piped buttonhole; corded bound buttonhole ~ Facing the bound buttonhole ~ Worked buttonhole ~ Tailored buttonhole ~ Machine buttonhole ~ Zipper applications: lapped application; center seam application; zipper in a slashed placket; hand application; invisible zipper application ~ Replacing a zipper ~ Care of zippers ~ Other fastenings: snaps; hammer-on snaps; nylon tape closure; hooks and eyes

Among the tailoring details that will show off your work as a labor of love are buttonholes, buttons and other fastenings.

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Pockets

Patch pocket ~ Side seam pocket ~ Slot pocket; slot pocket for tailored garments ~ Welt pocket

Pockets can be both useful and ornamental.

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Belts, Belt Loops, and Eyelets

Belt without stiffening ~ Tie belt -Belt with interfacing ~Belt with backing ~ Belt loops ~ Eyelets
A belt can alter the appearance of a dress; it can make the difference between a soso dress and one that is really eye-catching.

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Gathering, Shirring, and Ruffles

Gathers: gathering by hand; gathering by machine; gathers to hold fullness ~ Shirring: using a stay under shirring; shirring by machine; using elastic thread ~ Ruffling: circular ruffle; double ruffle; ruffle with heading

Gathers can be used to add fullness or to control fullness.
Gathers can be functional or they can be decorative.

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Bias Binding and Cording Trim

Bias binding: cutting; joining ~ Making a continuous bias strip ~ How to stretch bias ~ Making a single bias fold ~ Topstitching bias binding ~ Hand-hemming bias binding ~ -Double bias binding or French binding ~ To bind scallops ~ To bind comers ~ Corded piping ~ Tubing; corded tubing ~ Bias cord loops

Binding is a narrow strip of matching or contrasting fabric used to finish the raw edges of a garment or a household article.

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Decorative Stitches and Techniques

Satin stitch ~ Outline stitch ~ Cross-stitch ~ Catch stitch or herringbone stitch ~ Chain stitch ~ Lazy daisy stitch ~ French knots ~ Blanket stitch ~ Scallops ~ Feather stitch ~ Seed stitch ~ Couching stitch ~ Bullion stitch ~ Saddle stitch or cable stitch ~ Hemstitching or drawn work ~ Fagoting ~ Smocking ~ Quilting ~ Appliqué ~ Machine embroidery ~ Patchwork

A touch of embroidery or decorative stitching is enough to transform a simple garment into something very special.

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Decorative Trimming Tricks

Lace edging ~ Lace inserts or bands -Braid (passementeries) ~ Arrowhead ~ Self-fringe ~ Knotted fringe ~ Tassels ~ Embroidered edgings ~ Rickrack ~ Sequins ~ Beading ~ Tailored bow

Trimmings are a means of adding color, texture, and interest to clothes; decide where, when, and how much trimming you will use according to the design of the garment.

The simple garment with few construction details offers the best background for decoration.

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Tailoring

How to choose your pattern and material ~ Tailoring supplies ~ Making a coat or jacket: cutting and fitting the pattern; interfacing and pad-stitching the front section; muslin reinforcement for the back unit; interfacing the undercollar; pad-stitching to shape the roll of the collar; stitching upper collar and facing; setting the sleeves; hemming; finishing ~ Lining the coat or jacket; interlining a coat; underarm shields ~ Making the suit skirt or pants

Tailoring is a skill that can be acquired by any sewer who is willing to give her attention to the fine details so essential in turning out a professional-looking garment.

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Sewing for Children

Choosing fabric ~ Pattern sizes ~ How to take measurements ~ Understanding your pattern ~ Sewing tips

With easy-care fabrics, patterns that are easy to cut and sew, and a few short-cut construction tricks, your child can be well dressed at a minimum cost to you.

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 Sewing for Men and Boys

Pattern sizes ~ How to measure ~ Pattern adjustments: crotch depth; out seam; waist; width at hem; sleeve length on shirts; jackets ~ Suitable fabrics ~ Notions ~ Seams and seam finishes ~ Construction points for sewing the classic shirt: yoke; collar; collar on a band; collar and band in one; continuous lap placket; cuffs; stitching sleeve to shirt ~ Construction points for sewing men's pants: fly-front zipper opening; pockets; waistband; pressing pants

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Accessories and Gifts to Make

Bags ~ Belts ~ Hats ~ Shawls or stoles ~ Vests ~ Scarves ~ Straight collar; Peter Pan collar ~ Toys

Accessories are the finishing touch to a woman's wardrobe - the frosting on an otherwise plain cake.
The accessories you make yourself must harmonize with the outfit; be selective in the colors, fabrics, and trimmings you choose.

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Simple Mending and Altering Techniques

How to avoid zipper trouble -Mending rips and tears using mending tape ~ Reweaving problems ~  Darning ~ Reinforcing ~ Patching; elbow patches ~ Turning collar and cuffs ~ Repairing a trouser pocket ~ Making alterations in ready-to-wear clothing: buying for size; shortening a skirt; lengthening a skirt; taking in a skirt; letting out a skirt; pants

If worn spots are reinforced before they go through the washing machine, the hole that is about to appear can be warded off for several more launderings.

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Taking Care of Your Clothes

Pointers for daily care ~ Pressing ~ Mending, darning, and patching ~ Removing stains ~ Recycling clothes: what is worth making over?; selecting patterns; preparing material; piecing insufficient material; cutting; suggestions for make-overs

You may make or buy the most beautiful of clothes, but if you treat them carelessly, you still won't look your best wearing them.

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Sewing for the Home

Fabric suggestions ~ Decorating the windows: window hardware; measuring for curtains and draperies ~ Construction techniques: preparing the fabric; seams; side hems; bottom hems; weights; top hems; plain casing with heading; pleated headings; scalloped headings ~ Shirred curtains ~ Cafe curtains ~ Ruffled curtains ~ Curtain with a ruffled valance ~ Tiebacks ~ Unlined draperies ~ Lined draperies: to join drapery to lining ~ Valances: gathered valance; pleated valance; swag ~ Fabric shades: Austrian shades; Roman shades ~ Bedspreads: throw spread; coverlet; dust ruffle ~ Slipcovers: suitable fabrics, color, and design; amount of material required; cutting fabric and pin-fitting to chair ~ Details for construction: seams; seam finishes; stitching the slipcover; joining the finished sections; skirts and skirt finishes; inserting the zipper; covering the cushions ~ To cover a couch; to sew the cover ~ Slipcovers for a new look to an old piece ~ Decorative pillows: knife-edge pillow; box-edge pillow ~ Bolsters: round, square, wedge-type

Curtains, draperies, and slipcovers that can do much to add to the beauty of your home and to reflect the warmth and personality of you and your family. Sewing these is a major part of decorating the home and should be planned for carefully.