Selling and Buying Antique Quilts/Tops/Blocks

Overwhelmed at trying to sell an antique quilt? With a little bit of knowledge, research and clear pictures, you can be a successful  seller. Using the guide below will help you increase the chance of selling your quilt and selling it at a higher price. It will be helpful for sellers and buyers alike.You will also learn about quilt terminology.  As in all auctions, if a bidder asks you questions that you are unsure of, it is always better to tell them that you do not know, rather than giving misinformation. The problem with selling and buying vintage textiles in an Internet auction format, is that the bidder can not see, feel or touch the textile. Using the guide below, will help bidders make a bidding decision.

Check List For Items to Include in Your Quilt Auction:

1. Size: W x L, in inches
2. Pattern: Try to find the documented name of your quilt pattern. In many cases, the same pattern may have several different names ~ use the most common name.
3. Material: Try to identify the fabric that was used to make your quilt. Does the fabric feel crisp and unused or soft, as if it has been washed several times?
4. Batting (padding): If, known, include what material was used for the batting.
5. Binding (outside edge): Include which method was used to bind your quilt. Some quilts have no binding.
6. Condition: Really take  time and look over the entire quilt. Include any flaw(s) on the quilt top, backing or binding. Some may be: stains, rips, wear, tears, holes, odors, new or old repairs, has the quilt been cut down at some point in it's life
7. Quilting: Is it machine or hand quilted? If hand quilted, include the stitch-per-inch, the different designs and if a thread color (other than white or off-white,) was used for the quilting. Are the stitches neat and small? If it is not machine or hand quilted, is it tied or tufted? (If so, this should be included in your auction. Sometimes it is hard to tell by viewing your pictures.)
8. Pictures: By far, this will be your most time consuming job for listing your auction. A picture is worth a thousand words and you can never have enough of them. If you know nothing about quilts but have many, clear pictures, you will increase your chances of selling. Try to include all of the following pictures: the whole front, the whole back, showing the binding (outside edge), many close-ups of the different fabrics, pictures showing the applique work, embroidery, signature and/or date and damaged area(s). Most of us have pets, but do not photograph a picture of your pet laying on a quilt that you are hoping to sell.
9. Unique Information: Include any other information that may make your quilt more desirable. Is it signed and/or dated? Are the borders scalloped? Do you have a photograph of the quilt maker? Is there embroidery work on some of the pieces?

What is a quilt?

From Oxford American Dictionary: "n. a padded bed cover, quilt v. to line with padding and fix with crosslines of stitching."

Normally consisting of three layers: quilt top, batting and quilt back

• If you have only the top and the edges are unfinished, you have a quilt top
• If you have a top and the edges are finished, you most likely have a coverlet
• If you have a top with a finished backing but no batting in the middle, you have a summer quilt.

How to Describe the Quilt Top?

You should do some  research and try to find the documented name for the quilt pattern, figure out how it was constructed (pieced, appliqued or pieced & appliqued) and find out what type of material was used (cotton, cotton-blends, silk, wool, polyester knit, etc.).

• Quilt Patterns: There are several books available to help you identify your quilt patterns. Keep in mind that there are over 4,000 documented quilt pattern names! If you find that you are starting to sell a lot of quilts, you may want to consider investing in a few books.  I would recommend Barbara Brackman's Encyclopedia of Pieced Quilt Patterns and/or Encyclopedia of Applique. You will find that some of the same quilt patterns have several different names ~ use the most common name. Some of the very, early patterns do not have names.

• Construction:

Patchwork (Pieced): All the pieces are pieced (sewn together). If you can tell ~ are they sewn by machine or hand?

Applique: The fabric pieces have been cut out and sewn onto the quilt/quilt block. Have the edges been turned under before they were sewn onto the fabric? Were they sewn down with hand stitching, machine stitching or embroidery stitches? Common applique patterns are birds, flowers, leaves, butterflies and hearts.

Patchwork (Pieced )and Appliqued:  Some quilt tops/blocks are pieced and appliqued. Dresden Plates are an example of this type.

No Piecing or Applique: If you have a quilt that was neither pieced, appliqued or has embroidery work and it is solid or may have a patchwork fabric pattern, you have a whole cloth quilt or a quilt made with cheater fabric.. Some of these are white and others may have a patterned fabric. (It should be noted in your auction, because these are sometimes difficult to tell by viewing your pictures ~ especially if the fabric is a patchwork design.)

• Material: Try to figure out what type of material was used in your quilt. Cotton, cotton-blends, polyester knit, silk, feed sacks, muslin, wool, etc. Some of the prints may look like feed sacks but are actually printed cotton dress fabric. 

How to Describe the Batting?

If your quilt has a middle section, it is called the batting. (It is the padding between the top and bottom layer.) Most common batting that is used is either cotton or polyester. Other items found to be used as batting have been an old quilt, a sheet or other fabric material. 

Some of the earlier quilts appear to have no batting inside but actually have a very, thin layer of batting. If there is an open seam, peek inside. If it is held up to the light or the fabric is damp, you may be able to see the remains of cotton seeds. (If seen, you will know that you have an earlier quilt but knowing this will not accurately date your quilt.)

How to Describe the Backing?

Other than showing a good picture and listing any damage or stains, you should try to include what type of fabric was used.

How to Describe the Binding (outside edge)?

The binding is located on the outside edges and is used to hold all the layers together. In most cases, this is the final step in finishing a quilt.

• Separate Binding: In this method, a separate piece of fabric has been applied to the outside edges of your quilt.  It is either done by hand, machine or hand & machine. It is common to see it machined stitched onto the top, flipped over and hand sewn onto the back. On the earlier quilts, it may be completely hand done. This is the preferred way of finishing a quilt.
• Backing Used as Binding: In this method, the backing material is turned over from the back and hand or machined sewn onto the front. (You will find that the binding will wear more easily if the quilt was done in this method.)
• Knife Edge ~ No Binding: In this method, you will not see any binding fabric. When the quilt was made, all four sides were sewn together before it was quilted or tied. Although not all of the time, you will see this method on the majority of the imported quilts.
• Prairie Points ~ No Binding: The edges on these quilts are made out of layered triangles.

How to Describe the Quilting?

Quilting is the method used to hold all the layers together. Remember ~  the better quality quilts are going to be more heavily quilted ~ in every piece or with different quilting designs.

• Tied or Tufted: In this method, either yarn or embroidery floss has been used to tie the layers together. You will see little strings spaced throughout the quilt. Sometimes the strings have been cut and they look like little dots. Other times they are tufted and look like small, fuzzy dots. This is the fastest way to make all the layers secure.  The drawback is that these quilts do not sell for a lot of money and when washed the batting tends to bunch up.
• Quilted: First you have to determine if it has been hand or machined quilted.If it has been machine quilted, you should include this in your auction ~ it will make a difference to some bidders.  If it has been hand quilted, you should include the stitch-per-inch and include if the quilting thread is a different color other than white or off-white. To figure out the stitch-per-inch, lay a ruler down on the quilt.  Count the stitches in one one-inch section.  Do this on several different areas (excluding the binding area) of the quilt. Come up with an average stitch-per-inch. Remember that some of the quilts were quilted at a quilting bee and you may be able to see a difference in certain areas. Are the stitches neat, straight and small? (If the stitch-per-inch averages 4 -5, there is a possibility that you may have an imported quilt.) Describe and attempt to take pictures of the different quilting patterns. If the quilting is in the seams, this is called "quilted-in-the-ditch" and gives it a more puffy look.

(For more information and pictures, click see my Antique Quilts: Quilting guide.)

Other Misc. Information:

Be Careful in your auction descriptions:  

Unless you have many years of experience in the quilt world, refrain from using the following adjectives: Rare, Mint and Museum Quality. Also be careful using other adjectives that mean different things to different people. Don't use "good condition for it's age", to describe an antique quilt.

Whether information was told to you by an antique dealer, your grandmother or the Preacher's wife, don't be too quick to include this information in your auction description.  Use it as a guide for researching your quilt.

Don't type your descriptions all in CAPS. It is not only hard to read but considered "yelling" in the computer world. Use paragraphs to break up long descriptions. 

 

Dating your Quilt:

There are several books available to help you use as a guide to date your quilts.  Each is in my personal library and used often. I would recommend Dating Fabrics, A Color Guide 1800 - 1960 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain, Dating Fabrics 2, A Color Guide 1950 - 2000 by Eileen Jahnke Trestain, Vintage Fabrics ~ Identification & Value Guide by Judith Scoggin Gridley, Joan Reed Kiplinger & Jessie Gridley McClure or Fabric Dating Kit, A Pocket Guide to Identifying Quiilts and Other Textiles by Color, Fabric and Style by Cindy Brick.

There are a few things to consider before putting a date in your auction ~ mainly being dead wrong! Let's say the quilt blocks were pieced in 1893, the blocks were put together in 1912, the borders were sewn on in 1917 and the quilt was quilted in 1942. It would be wrong and dishonest to date your quilt 1893. Throw in reproduction prints and you can have a whole host of problems in this area. Don't lock yourself into a certain time era.  Take a lot of pictures and let them answer the bidder's questions. If you are not knowledgeable about about dating vintage fabrics, it is better to play it safe rather than be sorry.

List in the Correct Category:

When listing, you want certain bidders to be able to find your quilts. Pay attention to many different quilt categories. If you know or suspect you have an imported quilt do not list it in the antique categories(s).

Selling Quilt Tops/Blocks:

I would not recommend washing these prior to selling. Disclose any stains, damage or odors. Are they hand or machine stitched? Take a lot of pictures showing the different fabric used ~ not one picture showing a whole pile of blocks.

If you come across an old, damaged tied quilt and decide to take it apart to try to sell the top or back only ~ disclose it. I, for one would like to know I am bidding on a quilt top that was used as a quilt.

When buying ~ one must ask, why they were never put into a quilt top or quilt? Are they the extra blocks or the blocks that didn't lay flat or the seams didn't meet or is the fabric thin and of low quality or are they really stained or have holes in them?

When Buying a Quilt:

Before you fall completly head-over heals with a quilt, ask yourself a few questions. Where am I going to use it? Are the colors and design going to work? Measure your bed ~ is it going to fit my bed? Is the design going to correctly fit my bed?

Don't be easily misled by auction descriptions that state that the quilt was purchased from an antique dealer, estate auction or great-grandmother's yard sale. While this information may be true, it is no guarantee that they are really selling an antique quilt.

Ask many questions, request additional pictures and check the seller's feedback. As a rule of thumb, you normally get what you are willing to pay for.

Cutter Quilts:

This term is used for quilt or quilt tops that have extensive damage.  The problem with calling them cutters is that their no universal description that everyone agrees on.  Many people will try to restore an older quilt, redo an older top or cut down the quilt. Many people who love antique textiles, hate when old textiles are cut up and used for crafts. Some damaged textiles are sold for teaching purposes. My description of a cutter quilt would be a quilt that is worn beyond use for crafts.What I tend to use for crafts, are unfinished, vintage projects.

Imported Quilts:

There is nothing more disappointing than winning a quilt that was listed in the antique quilt category and finding out after you receive it, that it is really an imported quilt. I have offered a few clues to help you figure out if they are imported quilts. Many do not have tags and are hand quilted. After you get some experience under your belt, the colors, patterns, fabric, design, binding & construction will give them away. The quilting is limited, uneven and is about 4 - 5 stich-per-inch. The quality and workmanship just are not present on these quilts. Most do not have any binding but I have seen some with prairie points (layered triangles around the outside edge.)

Theses  may be the better bet for young children, porch decor or children going away to college but just make sure you know what you are selling or buying.

Everyday of the week,  I see imported quilts being sold as antique quilts on ebay and antique shops. Most sellers really do not know but I have found some sellers that should know and just do not really care. To protect yourself, I would always pay with a credit card and if the seller will not honor a return, I wouldn't hesitate to file a "not as described" complaint. In these cases, shipping should be at the expense of the seller. These being intentionally listed in the antique quilt categories are only hurting the honest sellers.

.

In Conclusion:

I hope that you find this information helpful in browsing though the quilt world. I attempted to hit on all the major areas to educate you about quilting, as well as the problem areas. For additional information and pictures, feel free to continue onto:

General Identification Guide to Antique Quilts ~ Part 1

General Identification Guide to Antique Quilts ~ Part 2