Are you considering listing an antique or vintage sewing machine with or without the cabinet?  Did you find a treadle or electric sewing machine at a yard sale, or did a friend or family member ask you to sell their machine?  In-focus, detailed photos, an accurate description of the condition of the machine and the cabinet, what's included that was stuffed in the drawers, and most important, CAREFUL PACKING will make you a happy seller with the best bid and excellent feedback from happy customers.

There are several categories of customers who will bid on older sewing machines.

• The first type wants a machine/cabinet/treadle for pickup only at a low price.  Doesn't really care about the condition of the machine or what it is as long as they can cannibalize the treadle irons (the metal part of the cabinet) to spray paint and resell as table bases and shabby chic decor.  Your auction price must be low to make their resale profit worthwhile. 
• The second type of bidder wants a "pretty one" for display but do not sew themselves.  Will bid more.
• The third type of bidder wants a particular model of machine (especially the treadles) and will request precise details about the maker and serial number, the condition, if all the pieces are there,and what attachments may be stuffed in the drawers.  Will bid even more, but is very selective about what to bid ON.   Will not bid unless they are assured packing is properly done, as they want to use the machine. 

The most annoying listings I see show a photo of the closed cabinet -- but not the machine!

The other annoyances are out-of-focus or very dark photos (why bother? what are they hiding about the condition?) and the most frequent, a picture of the BACK of the machine instead of the "business end."  Would you bid on a drill press, radial saw, or the back side photo only of any other power tool?  The needle is on the LEFT side when you are facing a sewing machine, and the round wheel that turns it is on the RIGHT side.  If you are looking at just the metal base of a treadle cabinet, the big wheel is still on your RIGHT side when you are facing it from the front. 

Use a light background behind and underneath if you are taking a photo of a black machine.  A sheet or even a plain wall behind a machine is perfect.  Natural light is best, as it avoids "hot spots" of glare from the flash.  If you have a whole treadle that's awkward to move, open the curtains on the windows behind you to take a better photo.  Also, if your black machine for sale is missing, say, one of the metal slide covers under the needle, this will show up plainly on the photo and will eliminate misunderstandings between buyer and seller about the machine's condition.  Leave out the fake roses.  I want to see the machine underneath.  However, an ADDITIONAL shot of a sample of the sewing under the needle has resolved the question of "does it sew?"   

Another grand annoyance is a listing for a "RARE Singer treadle sewing machine!  60 years old!  Don't know if it sews or all the parts are there but the wheel turns!"   If a seller doesn't know if a machine is missing a part, I doubt they know if a particular machine model manufactured for many decades is rare. 

Don't exaggerate.   Please don't assume old automatically = $$$.  Look before you list a common machine in poor condition as "RARE Fetherwate!!!!" with a $500 reserve, when you have a Singer 99 instead of a Singer 221 Featherweight.  I'm sorry, but aside from snickering because that seller didn't research his merchandise, I'm skipping the auction.  The odds are very high the machine will be also be inadequately packed and damaged. 

The best description you can provide is multiple photos of the machine and what comes with it.  If you don't know what it is... take a photo.   It's far better to say "there are a couple of places where the finish is scratched over the name" and "the finish needs cleaning but i have left it as is".   Many of the older machine have gorgeous decals that are a strong selling point , but ONLY if they have not been damaged by the wrong cleaners.  Window cleaners are to be avoided at all costs, for example!  Let your bidders experiment, not you. 

If you don't sew, ask someone who does to show you where the bobbin case and bobbin are under the needle slide plate.  Leave them in place and take a picture of them.  On some older machines these are the deciding factor on how much of a bid I will place, or if I'll even bid if the bobbin case is missing. 

Some older machines have a bobbin "shuttle" that looks like a bullet.  If you open the slide plate and look in and see an empty hole,don't panic. Gently turn the hand wheel and see if an arm swings into sight with the shuttle for its "photo op".   

If you don't know what to call the things in the drawers, don't say "a bunch of parts" or make up something cutsie.  Take a picture.  Please don't put grey parts on a grey counter to photograph them.  Just as important, don't put them on a "busy" print.  A piece of paper towel for a background is better than photographing them on a newspaper.  Don't set them on their side so they all look nearly identical in the photo!  A buyer will want to see the differences between the feet to know what they are bidding for.   If you can read a serial number on any of the parts, include it and you may have fewer questions to answer and more bids.   SIMANCO is the abbreviation the SIngerMANufacturingCOmpany used on their parts, and is useful info for the bidder when combined with a parts serial number.    

If you can read a serial number and/or model number on the machine, include that information, too.  Sometimes the serial number is on the right front underneath the stitch length regulator (looks like a lever).  Sometimes it is on the bottom right of the machine underneath the lip edge that fits in a cabinet.   Bidders will often ask this to determine the approximate age of a machine.

Also, a date of  '82 stamped on a machine does NOT mean, for example, a particular Willcox & Gibbs machine was made in 1882, but that's when the patent was first issued for that machine made in the 1930's.   Centennial badged Singer machines are not 100+ years old, the badge signifies the machine was made when the company was celebrating 100 years in production. 

Is the machine electric?  Is it an internal or external motor?  Does it have the old-style, non-polarized plug?  Include that information in your listing.  Unless you are a certified electrician or sewing machine repair person, don't make judgements about the condition of wiring, other than to mention when stuff looks bad/cracked/frayed.  And beware, a new external cord does not mean the internal wiring has been replaced or even checked, so be wary of saying a machine has all-new wiring if you don't know it for a fact.    

What do you know about the machine?  If it belonged to your great-grandmother from Bridgeport who brought it West with her in a covered wagon (along with the original sales receipt and manual) and there's a family engraving from 1890 with her with the kids by the machine..... you will have a much more interesting machine to a bidder than one in identical condition with no background.

But DON'T make up a cute story in the name of creative marketing. Wise bidders won't be impressed -- or bid!   Likewise, don't start an auction with an extravagant minimum bid with claims of silver (as opposed to silver-coloured) slide plates and museum quality when a item offered is missing decals, has veneer damage and scratches are clearly evident.   Do a basic search on the Internet on a website such as the Smithsonian Institution's library website for more information about the machine  (The S I library's website is particularly helpful with detailed info on many sewing machine manufacturing companies and machine models.  You may even find an on-line manual to download for free and include with the machine.).

And let's be honest -- if you have something that's one step short of a door stop, don't set a reserve of $200.   By the same token, there are aftermarket parts available if someone wants to bid on a machine but it is missing a sort-of-common part.  Slide plates under the needle may often be replaced, for example.   Don't throw it on the trash heap!   I would love to be able to link to good and waaaaay bad examples of listings and pricing, but think it better to let you search and see for yourself. 

Finally, and most important,  RESEARCH BEFORE YOU LIST what's involved in successfully shipping a sewing machine, cabinet, and/or treadle base.  These items are heavy, bulky, and in the case of the treadle stands, surprisingly fragile.   Taking the sewing machine to the average pack and ship place will NOT work.  Crumpled newsprint and all the packing peanuts in the world will NOT suffice to ship a sewing machine.  On the rare occasions when I have shipped my own machine (just the machine head, not a cabinet or a treadle stand), it is double-boxed for starters.  Look at some of the power sellers of sewing machines and their feedback from customers to get an idea of the importance of this step.  If it sounds like too much hassle, then list your machine/cabinet/treadle for pickup only.

If a potential bidder asks you how will pack and ship the machine, BE SPECIFIC.  For example, what shipping method will you use (USPS, UPS, FedEx or DHL, for starters)?  Will the machine be double-boxed?  Will you ship the machine in its case or package it separately?  How and where will you pack the foot pedal or attachments?  Will you take the machine head out of a cabinet to ship it?  If a seller won't give it any thought till after the auction has ended, I won't give bidding any thought either.   

I asked one seller how they would ship a sewing machine. They replied with lots of TLC.   No Bid!   Don't be smart/silly/cute when you have a bidder interested.  Be specific and be professional.   I deleted my first (very sarcastic) draft about a seller that replied they would pack it in a box to ship it.   I have learned the hard way NOT to throw away my time and money and to NOT bid on items if I do not know they will be properly packed.  It's  not worth the aggravation unless I want to pay extra for 35 pounds of shipping weight for one pound of spare parts. 

This sorry example is how NOT to pack a sewing machine for shipment.  This was courtesy of a moving company's packer --  when I wasn't looking -- not an eBay transaction -- but you get the idea.  The heavy machine promptly compressed the packing paper, banged around the box and what was stacked below it, the spool pin poked holes through the side, etc. etc.  Yes, there is now a big piece in the middle that was broken off the handwheel.  Bye, bye bobbin winder.   Machines should be double-boxed!

Another sad example of how NOT to ship a treadle sewing machine can be found by searching for eBay item 7623525777 for a photo as-is when the item was up for bids.  Crating alone is not the shipping solution.  The heavy machine head was left in the cabinet for shipping.  Aging wood can not withstand 35 pounds (or more) of machine head being slammed and shifted at two hinge points.  When a hinge pulls out of the wood, or a setting screw loosens, down comes what's now a 35-pound wrecking ball through the woodwork and iron stand.  You'll notice even the treadle irons are askew, and probably have cracked.   

Keep in mind if an insured machine is broken during shipment, it can be very challenging (if not impossible) to be reimbursed if the item was not professionally appraised first.   When in doubt, ASK the buyer what they prefer (within reason)  for proper packaging for shipment and come to an agreement BEFORE  the auction closes for any additional packing supplies or packing expenses.   

If you decide to offer a machine and/or cabinet for pickup only, I recommend you let the winning bidder disassemble the machine head from the cabinet before it is loaded for transport.  They will then know how the machine will be reassembled if they disassembled it themselves.  They will also then be responsible for any loose bits themselves.   It's a nice courtesy to offer a zip-loc plastic bag or two for screws, bobbins, the bobbin case or shuttle, and whatever may be flopping about in the drawers.  Plastic wrap on a roll will stick to itself -- not the cabinet finish -- and wrapped  around the cabinet, is very useful for securing the hinged lid of any sewing machine cabinet for transport.  NEVER use any type of tape on bare wood or the machine head.   Plastic wrap will also secure drawers shut and prevent them from being cracked in transport.

Do you have doubts about taking my advice since I've never sold a sewing machine on e-Bay?  GOOD! You're thinking!  Please do an e-Bay search for antique sewing machines.  Sort the auctions for "most expensive" almost-final bid (NOT an astronomical starting price set by the seller, but real bids) then see how volume sellers with high bidders pack and ship their machines.  

I hope this information is useful to both sellers and buyers.  All opinions are my own.

NOTES FOR SELLERS

If you're a seller and want me to research your machine for your listing, you'll need to arrange payment first.  (That should have eliminated all THOSE queries <grin> but since I am still getting them, I'll say it again -- GO TO THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARY WEBSITE OR GOOGLE the make and model of your machine.)  I'm glad to help if you're stuck looking for information, but don't e-mail me if you won't start with your own Google search.   Also, try Googling Needlebar, ISMACS, and TreadleOn.  I'm sorry, but ebay policy won't let me link to anything from this guide.  

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW THE VALUE OF A PARTICULAR MACHINE,  PAY FOR A PROFESSIONAL APPRAISAL.  If you do not wish to pay for a professional appraisal, take a look at what the same model, in the same cabinet, in the same condition, with the same accessories, has sold for in the recent past here on ebay.   Research the sales on the ebay market in which you wish to sell the machine.   For example, many Pfaff handcranks available from flohmarkt sales in Germany (like our flea market or garage sale) are priced low there -- but the same item is rarely seen in the U.S., so price according to ebay.com, not ebay.de sales! 

Please note that I do not do not do not AM not an appraiser.  While condition is very important, so is research.  Good luck researching your machine!