This section will continue with an expansion of part 4 in which photography was discussed.  Due to limited space it is nearly impossible to do a comprehensive essay on this matter; however, I feel confident there will sufficient information related which will provide the seller with an adequate base upon which to properly start their business successfully.

CONTROL YOUR FLASH

Of all the photo problems encountered, your camera's flash will be the number one source of trouble.  A flash has its uses, such as to help eliminate shadows on a bright sunny day, and to illuminate an artifact in a darkened area, but for the most part it is useless.  A flash is just too bright.  It often creates more shadows than it eliminates, and it often over-exposes the article making it either blurry or just too darn hard to see as a result of its reflective properties.  There are better ways to photograph your item, such as the use of indirect lighting, the use of photo stands, and the use of mirrors; however these examples and topics must be addressed in the final section of this essay; part 6.

Photo one demonstrates the inability of a flash to illuminate an entire frame of  points.  As you can clearly see this frame was shot from the front in a downward angle.  The main flash area that was properly lighted is in a oval pattern that is only capable of lighting the first few points in the center.  The remaining points along the edge are placed into shadow and do not clearly show up.  Also note the shadow around some of the edges of the points.  These shadows further obscure the point's symmetry and make them hard to see.  Had the photo been taken directly overhead the light would have been better distributed, the shadows lessened, and all the points better illuminated.  However; on a large frame of points it is often difficult to get an overhead shot.  The frame would more than likely have to be placed on the floor and then the person taking the photo would then have to find a way to lean directly over the frame, such as laying across a table or desk to get a proper photo.  Most over-the-counter box cameras do not have macro capability and have a fixed focal length, which means the shooter must remain at least a specified distance from the object being photographed.  Often this minimal length is 3 or more feet which complicates the photo session further.  For example, most tables and desks are 31 inches from the floor.  This leaves the focal length 5 inches short for a clear photograph that might require the shooter to either arch his back for the distance or find another means in which to take the picture.  This may seem silly or not realistic, but I have taken thousands of photos of artifacts, and I have found it nearly absolutely impossible to get directly overhead without the use of a macro lense.  If your camera has this option or has the ability to use such a lense, it would be well worthwhile to invest in it, as it will allow you take better close-ups and dramatically decrease your fixed focal length to a useable level.  Compacting your display into a tighter group will also allow to you take better photo's as a result of shortening the distance needed to encompass all the points within your view frame.

Photo two was taken overhead or near over head.  The point is properly held, but the picture taker did not take into consideration the reflective properties of the object he was photographing.  The flash in this case, just destroyed any chance to get a good, clear photograph.  A lot of the flaking has been obscured and the hand was made brighter than the object causing further distraction.  On a plus side, the flash did at least bring out some of the color of the material which may make it more desirable.  Had a different light system been used such as photo bulbs the color could have been highlighted, and the reflection eliminated giving the point all its positives without the negatives seen here.

WATCH CONFLICTING BACKGROUNDS AND PATTERNS

Your background is perhaps the most important choice you will make in taking an eye pleasing photograph.  In previous sections the topic of background colors was touched upon, but this section will provide examples of things to avoid. 

Photo one is an excellent photo of an artifact.  The point featured is very clear, and the detail preserved.  The shadow is confined more or less directly beneath the point and does nothing to detract from the symmetry.  The flaking, flaws, and some cortex can be clearly seen.  If the artifact alone was the only thing in this frame I would give it an A plus for its clarity.  On the down side, the choice of background really a failure. This isn't the worst example in the world, but it is a decent example of a conflicting pattern and its effect upon the featured item. In this photo the background appears to be a piece of wood.  The color of the background is fine and would normally complement the point; however, the diagonal stripes of the wood tend to draw the eye away from the point and upward towards the edge of the photo.  It would have been better served if the wood was one color or the other.

Photo two is a confusion of color and patterns.  This was used to advertise sand cast beads.  Much can be said about this photo and its impact on the buyer.  In a gallery format the beads are nearly impossible to identify what they are.  They appear to be a mass of mixed colors.  There is not one strand that is shown complete, and a viewer may be apt to skip over this auction because there is nothing that really stands out.  It would have been much better to have separated the beads into single strands instead of looping them over one another.  To someone not familiar with sand cast beads, the photo makes them appear to be a hodge-podge of mixed up beads and not wearable items.  There is not a contrasting background to highlight the item for sale, and the item itself lacks sufficient color for it to stand out by itself.  This photo is equivalent to taking a picture of a deck of cards strewn on a table or bed.  In a disarray the cards mean nothing, however if you group them into pairs or sequential cards of a kind, they immediately have meaning and recognition by the viewer as being a worthwhile combination.

Photo three has nothing to do with relics at all.  In fact, it is a photo of a spider I took on the farm.  However, this is an excellent example of conflicting backgrounds.  As the spider stands on the corrugated tin, it is difficult to see.  In fact the pattern of tin detracts from it so much, you have to look close to see it.  The same thing happens when an item is placed on any busy background.  Heavy cloth weave can be as distracting as a paisley pattern on another piece of cloth.  However if the seller finds a situation in which a less than desirable background must be used, there is always the ability to crop to reduce the detraction.  Cropping has been discussed in previous sections, and its use can not be emphasised enough to clean up undesirable clutter near or around the point.

  Once cropped the spider now has center stage.  It stands out.  Note the bright colors of the image and the very neutral background.  A once confusing photograph is now an extremely nice example of making your item center stage.  It is eye-catching, and attention getting.  There are no shadows to detract from the itme, and the item speaks for itself.  Preferably a very smooth background is more beneficial than one that is not smooth.  Even the corrugated metal in this cropped version becomes smoother once all the other hill and valley's were removed.

ENHANCE YOUR ITEM WITH CREDENTIALS

Not every item you will sell will have credentials which verify the authenticity of  what you are selling.  Most will have to stand alone.  But when you do have documentation such as Certificates of Authenticity which accompany an item you have, use it to promote its sale.  Such documentation is often welcomed by the buyer and a great many of those shopping on the internet look specifically for this type of paperwork.  Regardless of the reason for shopping, proper documentation by recognized authenticators can only increase your profit margin on most items for sale.    

 Note how the certificate tends to make the item stand out on the documentation.  A good certificate of authenticity to use on the internet is one in which a photograph of the object is either part of the certificate or at least attached to it in such a manner that it can not be easily removed.  Most use the photo attached method for documentation, but an increasing number of authenticators have begun to turn to the imbedded photo, or one that is permanently printed onto the document itself.  By far, the imbedded type of certificate is the most desirable as it can not be removed and switched by someone wishing to sell a reproduction as the real thing.

The certificate can often be used to reduce photo expense as well.  Many are of sufficient size and quality the certificate photo is clear enough, and large enough to demonstrate the quality of the point.  Another good method some use to cut down on photo expense is to place the item directly over the photograph since many editing programs allow the photo to be the actual size of the item.  If the object is smaller than the photograph, overlaying it will only confuse the buyer.  In this case it should be placed off to one side and slightly over the text.  Care should be taken in no vital information such as size and grade are obscured by it.  If the object is either too small or too large for this, then invest the few extra cents and add an additional photo of the item you are trying to sell and present it in the best format possible.

WATCH WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

Before any photo is taken, make sure of your object.  Check it for clarity, and make sure it is centered in the middle of your view finder as much as possible.  Check your background.  Don't take a great photo of an item only to have a sloppy background take away from it.

    This is a fairly decent photo of a group of items for sale.  The background color is good and the items stand out well against it.  Shadows are minimal, and the artifact visibility is fairly clear to the eye.  But the background is folded and wrinkled.  The buckled material makes the items appear to sink into the material; thus loosing some of its definition.   It has the look of someone who didn't take the time to present their item in its best light.  In fact, it tends to enhance the damage some of  the artifacts already have by causing the person to mentally look closer because they subconsciously recognize the lack of care.  A display of this manner is like going to a store to buy a shirt.  On one rack, they have nice pressed shirts.  On another rack they have shirts with wrinkles and folds in them as if they had once been wadded up or dropped on the floor.  Both are similar in price.  Which one would you choose?  A shirt from a clean, crisp display or one from the wrinkled rack?  The same mindset applies when you skim the net, wether you know it or not.  Take time to press your background material.  It will help you save a sale.

MAKE SIMILAR ITEMS ATTRACTIVE THROUGH GROUPINGS

Once you have established what you want to sell, groupings can be an effective means to show off your artifacts or other items in an artistic way.  In so doing, the seller is limited only by their imagination.

Photo one is a typical display of artifacts.  It is useful in very large to middle sized relics or other objects, but it does nothing to get the buyers attention other than to show there is a lot of artifacts for sale.  The background is a wash.  It is sloppy, and the seller didn't take the time to ensure there were no shadows wich obscure the relics for sale. Many of the arrowheads fade into the material and are hard to see.  When forced to use this type of display, such as in the case of having purchased a very old collection which was glued onto a board -- and there are many like this -- and you have no desire or are afraid to remove them, some of the problems with this photograph can be eliminated through the use of other photographs which break the items down into sections.  In so doing you will help highlight all the artifacts for sale, but you will also be increasing your advertising cost.  Often the added expense of several photos will be well worth the cost, but remember, groupings like this will not be as eye catching so make sure your title is one that will grab the skimmer's attention.

Photo two is a very nice grouping of artifacts.  Although many of them show tip dings or other symmetry problems, this remains a good example of what to do.  The background is fairly neutral despite its slightly rough texture, and the points stand out well against it.  The points are colorful, and artistically arraigned in such a manner the buyer immediately gets a sense of what they could look like in a frame of their own.  Grouping tend to make the items look like more than are really there, and always make them a more attractive buy.  One flower standing alone can be beautiful to look at, but a bouquet of flowers; although mixed with non-identical flowers, artistically arranged become a hundred times more desirable.

I hope this section has been helpful.  If so, let me know.  Questions?  e-Mail me and I'll try to help.  Part 6 will address photographic techniques and tricks..