This section is intended to provide photographic examples of eBay listings.  These are not intended to authenticate or repute any item shown.  The photo's shown will not be attributed to any listing past, present, or future.  They are used solely to emphasise content and for educational demonstration of photographs and how they have been used.

As previously outlined in part three of this guide, the background, position of artifacts, and clarity of photographs have been discussed.  It is one thing to attempt to verbally describe these issues, and it is another to provide a visual example that totally clarifies the points discussed.   The following are photographic examples taken from actual eBay listings.  Nothing has been altered.

PROPER BACKGROUNDS:

Begining with the photographs from left to right we will attempt to evaluate each one individually and address any problems they might have.  Chapter three outlined backgrounds that are not as compatable with some artifacts as other backgrounds might be.  Although each artifact can be seen, seeing is not the main focus of your auction.  Visibility is your goal.  You want the artifact to JUMP from the page and catch the eye of the browsing buyer.  Those that are not as visible as others are not as likely to draw as many hits or viewers.  

Photo one is a large white in color point on a yellow background.  Note how the point tends to fade into the yellow and does not stand out as well.  This color blending is even more prevalent near the tip of artifact, which makes the tip appear to be a slightly different color than the rest of the point.  To an experienced collector, this blending and color shift might suggest to them the point might have been recently re-chipped to put a new point on the arrowhead.  This is a big turn off and could lead to lower bids or even a lost sale.

Photo two is the photo of a very large black in color point.  This was taken on the bed of a scanner.  The pale bluish background is typical of scanner tops and creates this bluish tint.  Although scanners are great they are limited.  This photo could have used some brightening and contrast adjustment to bring it out.  Likewise  placing a white cardboard back drop over it would have clarified the photo even further.

Photo three is of a white point on a green background.  Note how the point contrasts well with the green.  A dark point would contrast equally well with a light background.  The felt itself is smooth and absorbs many of the shadows that might otherwise appear on a more solid surface.

PROPER MEASURMENTS: 

NO COINS ACCEPTED!                                                     

It is imperative the buyer gets a sense of what he is getting.  To the artifact collector SIZE DOES MATTER.  Examine these four photos.  It is easy to get a sense of how a photo without easy reference can become confusing.

The photo on the left  three US quarter dollars as a measuring device.  Unless one pulls these out of their pocket it would be difficult to fully appreciate the length of this artifact.  Is a quarter 3/4 inches wide or is it an inch wide?  Is this point three inches wide or is it 2-1/4 inches wide?  As you you can it makes a big difference. Additionally,  there is a space between each quarter.  This spacing only serves to throw any appreciative measurement off further.  How far apart are the quarters?  A quarter inch?  A half inch?  There is no way to tell.  Furthermore the quarters extend beyond each end of the artifact.  This is NOT A VERY GOOD WAY TO DEMONSTRATE SIZE AT ALL! 

Photo two, like photo one. uses a coin.  Instead of a quarter this seller used a buffalo nickel.  A cute antiquing idea to help establish the feeling of old; however, not a very good reference point.  The same question to true size is raised.  To make matters worse, the nickel is placed to the rear of the base, the relic is angled away from the coin, and the point is downward giving it a negative feeling.  The coin is so far from the artifact there is no clear correlation between the size of the nickel and the arrowhead.  It does nothing to aid in the selling of this artifact, and causes more confusion than it eliminates.

THE RULER AS A MEANS OF MEASUREMENT:

Both of these photographs uses a ruler as a method of showing size.  It works well when used right, however the photo on the left was taken from one end of the ruler instead of being shot straight down from the top.  Additionally, there were two artifacts of two different sizes shown.  A shot from this position makes it difficult to determine the proper size of the rear artifact as a result of its positioning.  The further you get from an object, the smaller it appears.  Additionally, from this angle, the inch markings are nearly impossible to accurately read.  Two artifacts should never be photographed together with a ruler, unless the ruler is easily readable on both edges.  Then one point should be placed on side of the ruler and the the second point on the other side of the ruler. 

The right side photo was properly shot.  Taken from the top down, the points can then be easily sized. This was probably achieved on a scanner, however the principle is the same.  Always keep the ruler close enough to size up the point, and ensure the inch marks are easily readable. This ruler could have been a little closer for photographic purposes; although a little further than I would have liked to see, it is sufficiently close enough for the viewer to get a good sense of the item length. Always try to start the artifact in the middle of the ruler as it allows for easier alignment and is more flexible when minor movements occur from the photographing or scanning process.

THE HAND AS A MEASURING GUIDE:

The human hand makes a very good measuring guide.  For the vast majority of people, one hand is nearly as wide as another.  There is very little difference between hands.  The hand personalizes the point by placing you into the photograph and suggests to the buyer you are standing behind it.  However, the hand can have some pitfalls, but all of them can be avoided by paying close attention to how you are holding the artifact itself.

On the left is a photo of a large, dark-in-color point.  The hand contrasts well with the artifact; however the green grass background absorbs the point and detracts from the point.  The point is not held in the flat of the seller's hand.  It is held cup-like.  Note the tilt of the side of the arrowhead.  This causes a dark shadow that blacks out the edges of the arrowhead and makes the flaking harder to see.  Had the photo been cropped to reduce the grass and emphasis the point and hand; along with the point being held in the flat of the hand, not only would its size be demonstrated, but a more detailed and desirable photograph would have been achieved. 

On the right is a good demonstration of the proper way to hold the artifact.  Note the hand is flat and the fingers are just slightly splayed with minimal spacing between them.  This slight spacing will almost always help remove any tendency to cup the relic, and ensure a better photo.  Note also the grass in this photo.  The grass is dark and nearly black.  This photo was either taken in the shade or it was taken on an overcast day.  Photo one was obviously taken in full sun wich made the grass stand out more.  By cropping the photo in the second example, nothing but the artifact was emphasised, and the grass removed.

Due to photo limitations of not more than 10 photos per guide, this section must be  continued in section 5