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Sandstone - Speed Along Natural Patina Aging Process

by: csharp92( 1378Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 10000 Reviewer
4 out of 4 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 4061 times Tags: Sandstone | Statue | Patina | Frank Lloyd Wright | Nakoma Nakomis


         

Our English Sandstone and Frank Lloyd Wright Sandstone Ornament Collections are manufactured using a technique called Dry-Casting. This method has been around for centuries and has proven itself to be a durable, attractive and high quality alternative to other materials (such as terra-cotta, plastic, clay, fiberglass or concerte). The nature of our stone has a number of advantages, it has the appearance of carved stone at a fraction of the cost, and it ages much like natural stone, developing a rich patina of moss and/or lichen quite rapidly. For those that do not like the look of the natural patina there are steps that can be taken to keep your piece free from it as well as ways to more rapidly age the stone for that centuries old world look for those that do prefer the natural patina. Many try to enhance this process while others that do not care for the natural patina look can keep them clean by using a light acid solution or diluted bleach.

Our most recent dry mix design improvements and curing methods have given our stone greatly increased strength, weather tolerance and resistance to abrasion. All of our stone products are made with the highest quality ingredients. The dry cast mix design includes acrylic additives, stainless steel cable and tiny chopped glass fibers for increased strength and durability.

We can provide any of our English Sandstone and Frank Lloyd Wright Sandstone Ornament Collection that you order in one of our four standard colors, or we can custom color the stone for an extra charge. The available colors are: limestone, cream, pewter and terra-cotta. The colors are integral in the mix that is they are added to the actual mix so they are throughout the entire piece.

              

"The important thing is not to stop questioning. Curiosity has its own reason for existing." ~ Albert Einstein

Stone sculptures require minimal care and maintenance. An outdoor stone sculpture may attract moss and lichens and other colorings from the environment. This natural patina can be very attractive in the appropriate place and add to the character of the sculpture or urn. For those that do not care for the natural patina the stone sculptures and/or urns can be cleaned by washing them down with bleach when required and rinsing well with water. You may need to use a stiff brush and be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves and follow instructions on the bottle when using bleach.

Moss and lichen do not require soil for nourishment; they can spread over the entire surface of the stone, forming large patches. This effect can be pleasing in a garden especially for those looking for an Old World look. Natural patinas come from aging as time passes pieces that are left outside create their own natural patina.

Gardeners have always loved the look of aged pots, urns, planters, sculptures; so much so, in fact, that many have come up with creative techniques for speeding along the aging process. If you want to give new, unglazed stone a timeworn appearance, you have several options. Since Sandstone becomes porous over time, it can take on new shades and colors quite easily. The quickest and easiest way to give it a weathered look is to rub the surface with materials from your garden, such as damp soil and leaf cuttings, or a handful or compost, until you achieve a color you like. This is a messy job, so wear garden gloves to protect your hands.

If you like the look of mossy-green patina on stone, you can take the technique a step further: After rubbing the sandstone with soil or other garden materials, use a paintbrush to apply a layer of yogurt, buttermilk, liquid plant food, or beer to surface; then rub again with soil if desired. Place the sanstone piece outdoors in a shady spot, or mist often with water, and the mossy look should develop in about three months.

A more complex but faster technique for achieving the look of patination involves using powdered, earth-tone natural pigments (available from art-supply stores). Wearing a protective mask and gloves, apply an even layer of water-insoluble matte medium (also available from art-supply stores) to the sandstone piece with a natural sponge or soft cloth. Then dampen clean pieces of sponge, dip into the powdered pigments, and dab them onto the still-wet stone. Start with lighter shades, and gradually layer on darker ones, until you achieve a color close to that of the aged stone you are trying to replicate and if not replicating anything gradually layer on darker ones, until you achieve what you like. After the pigments dry, lightly sand the surface with fine-grade sandpaper to finish.

Yet another option for hurrying the aging natural patina process of moss and lichen: There are so many theories on how to make an object mossy from coating with buttermilk to submerging in a murky pond for the summer. Some formulas call for mashed slugs, potatoes or grass clippings. Moss will not grow where it typically would not naturally (like a sun baked driveway or on a plastic pot), but it can be encouraged in moist and shady places.

To grow moss on a surface make a slurry (or also known as a milkshake) of bits of live moss (from nearby sources) and some sort of agent that will help the mix adhere. Mix yogurt, buttermilk and water in a bucket with the moss. (Many people also add cow manure to this mix). After mixing the ingredients together in the bucket, then paint liverally on your sandstone piece to speed up the aging process of the patina. Many mosses like the acidity in yogurt and buttermilk. Modeling clay may be added to help hold the slurry in place. Mist slurry mix regularly to ensure that the area is kept moist and keep it in a shady area for several weeks.

Rough, porous surfaces with nooks help give moss, ferns, small flowers and lichens a foothold. Bermuda coral is ideal for this project as well. Regular concrete is not porous enough. Lichens are a union of algae and fungi living in a symbolic relationship. They may be transplanted (move the lichen bearing object) and replace or duplicate their original environment. Lichens like sunnier, drier conditions than mosses.

Colonies of moss and lichens enhance the beauty of sandstone pieces in the opinion of many.

Information on Mosses and Lichens

Mosses and lichens are among the first plants to grow on bare soil and dry rocks. Mosses thrive in humid climates and prefer moist, shady places, and grow on trees, rocks, rotten wood, soil, statues and urns. Peat mosses accumulate in deposits that may be several hundred metres thick.

What is lichen:

Lichens are not a single plant.

A lichen is a complex group of plants depending on a close association between a FUNGUS and ALGAE - a symbiotic relationship.

A lichen consists of an upper part of interwoven fibres related to the fungus and a layer of more loosely fibrous structures related to the fungus that surrounds the algae.

The algae can carry out photsynthesis and feed fungi. The fibrous sturctures that make up the fungi adds support to the algae and keeps the algae from drying out.

Language of  Flowers: Lichen means "dejection" and "solitude".

What is a moss?

A moss is a class (Musci) of plants without flowers or roots. Moss usually grows as low, dense, carpet-like masses on tree trunks, rocks, or moist ground.

Language of Flowers: Moss means "maternal love".

Habitat:

Mosses create organic matter and make the local habitat more suitable for seed-bearing plants. Mosses thrive in humid climates and prefer moist, shady places, and grow on trees, rocks, rotten wood, and soil. Peat mosses accumulate in deposits that may be several hundred metres thick.

On rocky outcrops, mosses may grow along cracks or fractures in the rock. The crack is a trap for small amounts of soils and water naturally seeps along these cracks. The soil and water provide essential nutrients for the moss.

Biology of Moss:

Mosses have a stem covered with many tiny leaves. Mosses do not have true roots to absorb water and mineral nutrients. They do not circulate sap. Mosses absorbed water through their leaves adn stem like a sponge.

Mosses have two phases in their life cycle. The first phase is a green moss plant called the gametophyte. The male and female gametes produce the second phase, called the sporophyte. The top of the sporophyte is a stalk filled with spores. When the spores matrue, the stalk bends, and a tiny lid opens. The spores are released adn blow away to start new plants when the air is dry.

For those that prefer not to have the aged and weathered look on their sandstone pieces or anything else like thier walkway and much more can use a diluted solution of bleach or acid solution as well as some over the counter products that are made just for this. There are many moss and lichen killers out there that can be used besides the home remedies as mentioned briefly above. There are also products you can buy to kill or speed up the process as well.

There are over the counter products that kill moss and lichen as well as sealants to prevent further growth. Below are a few over the counter type products that can be purchased for those that do not want the natural patina to occur on their item.

BATIMOSS - A water based and neutral solution. A moss killer for long term curative treatment of surfaces covered with moss, algae, fungi, lichen and mould. Non toxic for man and environment, can be used on all surfaces even stone, wood and paint. Destroys plants from the root for long lasting effet. This biodegradable product can be left on the surface but will take a few days to kill the plants. Apply in a dry weather spell of at least 24-hours.

  • BATIMOSS is a water bases solution for curative and preventive treatment of surfaces covered with plants thallophytes (moss, lichen, algae, greening, etc...). BATIMOSS is neutral, so it does not attack and does not modify any surface (wood, galvanized stainless steel, stone, slate, cement, water or solvent based paint, etc...). It has a preventive and curative action, for the duration of its presence on roofs, walls and various surfaces, so that moss and luchen can no longer develop. BATIMOSS is non toxic for man and non contaminant for the environment.

BATIFACE - A powerful biocide, algicide and fungicide to destroy micro-organisms generating mould, fungus, algae, moss, lichen etc within a few hours. Will give a new appearance wihtout degrading surfaces such as walls, roofs, plaster, floors, and stone. Renovates tarmac. This is a powerful product to kill moss quickly. It will need to be rinsed after it has finished working (usually within a few hours).

  • BATIFACE is a biocide algicide and fungicide to destroy micro-organisms generating mould, fungus, algae, moss, etc... Its curative efficiency on surfaces, (roofs, walls, plaster, stone, etc...) needs no mechanical action, so avoiding surface degredation. BATIFACE gives a new appearance to walls and floors. It will renovate tarmac and floor slabs.

HYDROMOSS - A water repellant sealant to protect surfaces from the penetration of rain and water, and prevent regrowth of plants. A waterproofing agent with curative and preventive treatment of walls, roofs, or any surface covered with plants, moss, lichen, algae, greening etc. Protects against moss.

  • HYDROMOSS is an anti-moss for a curative and preventive treatment of surfaces covered with plants, moss, lichen, algae, greening, etc. It is also a waterproofing agent impregnating the surface to prevent the penetration of rainwater, surface water on walls, facades adn fibrecement roofs.

View the following categories within our store to view our English Sandstone Reproductions and the Frank Lloyd Wright Sandstone Ornament Collection Reproductions.

European Sandstone Reproductions

Frank Lloyd Wright Sandstone Reproductions

We greatly appreciate your time and thank you for reading our guide. If you have a moment we would also appreciate a vote as to whether this guide was helpful to you or not. If you have any questions about anything in this guide or anything outside of this guide you are always welcome to contact us at any time.


Guide ID: 10000000002132120Guide created: 10/14/06 (updated 11/03/09)

 
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