This time we choose to share our knowledge about the legendary Rolex Submariner watch with useful information about the most important changes among its history. We also include the most famous and collectible references with the last auction's realized prices or hammer fall prices. We hope you'll find this brief guide more than interesting.

Submariner  References and Changes

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 6200 – The Coroncione: First Water resistant to 200 meters
Produced in 1954 and hard-to-find, this Rolex Submariner with 6200, is the first with a water resistance of 200 meters and with a case sturdier than its previous model, the Submariner with 100-meter waterproofness. This model comes with Mercedes style hands and bi-directional rotative bezel calibrated with a 5-minute scale. The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 was introduced with a new charge-in crown of 8mm-diameter to be worn wearing gloves. This particular crown gives this watch the Italian name of Coroncione. The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 or Coroncione also has the name Brevet, but only the version with the special explorer dial, the now highly collectible 3, 6 and 9 Arabic figures on dial with an equilateral triangle at 12.

  Submariner 6200

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 5512 – The Cornini: Thin Crown guard
Rolex Submariner models with Reference 5512 were produced between 1959 and 1978, with Caliber 1030 until 1965 and then with Calibers 1560 or 1570. With the same general features of the Reference 5513 but with an only difference in the “crown guard” called in this case CORNINI among collectionists. Means that the protection of the crown were thinner in their tips than the previous “crown guard” on Ref. 5513. This characteristic belongs to the first years of the Submariners Ref. 5512 production, so we can define them as prototypes. The chronometer of the Submariner Ref. 5512 is certified and is water-resistant to 200 meters; all of these are mentioned on dial.

  Submariner Ref. 5512

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 5513 and 5514: First with Crown guard and The Comex watch
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 watches were produced between 1962 and 1989, and they could come with Caliber 1530 or 1520 movements. They come only in Stainless Steel and they’re100% water-resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet. They have rotative bezel which is of vital importance for divers, it indicates the submersion time aligning the minute hand with the bezel scale. And the Helium Escape Valve (HEV) was developed and tested on 5513 and 5514 before being commercially available in the original Sea Dweller in 1967.
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 model is different from other Submariners because it is provided with a 7mm crown with protection against shocks called “crown guard”. The dial in this model comes with luminescent indexes but also exist a rare version with explorer style dial and Arabic numbers at 3, 6 and 9 positions.
After 1980, Rolex submariner dials were replaced with a new version showing metal-surrounded luminescent hour markers. Rolex produced a Submariner model for COMEX, a French diving company founded in 1961 to explore the depths of the oceans, with the reference 5514. In this period specially developed models for the Royal Navy of England were produced by Rolex too.

  Submariner Ref. 5513

Plastic Crystal Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680: The First Submariner Date
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 model was launched in 1969. This added a date feature to the Submariner range, and for the first few years the word Submariner on dial was printed in red. The Rolex Submariner Date with Ref.1680 has plastic crystal glass with Cyclops or magnifying glass over the date window.

  Submariner Ref. 1680

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 1680-8: The First Submariner Date 18K Gold
With a production period from 1969 to 1978, at the end of the 60s Rolex launches the reference 1680 and with this was born the Submariner model which clearly indicates the date on the dial, using a small window with Cyclops for an easy-reading. The first version of Submariner Date was based on steel but then Rolex added a gold version, with the Ref. 1680-8.  Being the “-8” the Rolex code for Yellow Gold material. The main features are Submariner with non-quick Date, automatic chronometer movement Caliber 1575, Oyster case with a water-resistance up to 200 meters, bi-directional turning bezel with specific functions for divers and Fliplock bracelet with extension system to be worn over a diving suit.
Most of these Ref. 1680-8 Submariner Date watches come with black dial, extra luminous markers and plexiglass but there are versions with white prints including “Submariner” and depth indication, and rarest versions with “Submariner” print in red color.

  Submariner Ref. 1680-8

ROLEX Submariner Date Ref. 16800: First Sapphire Crystal Transitional model
In the early 1980's the Ref. 1680 was the first fitted with a synthetic sapphire crystal and the caliber 3035 movement and renumbered Ref. 16800. The early version of the Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16800 is considered transitional since the model still carried the matt dial but was now rated to 300 meters (1000 feet) and equipped with the new movement. The present Rolex Submariner Date watch is the transitional version of the Ref. 16800.

  Submariner Ref. 16800

ROLEX Submariner Date Ref. 168000 Sapphire Crystal
Toward the end of the production run of the Ref. 16800, for only about nine months, Rolex delivered a Ref. 168000 (note the extra zero) in which the quality of the stainless steel was upgraded from grade 316 to grade 904. The Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 168000 used the same case as the later Ref. 16610, but with the movement and dial of the earlier Ref. 16800.

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 16610: Superluminova dial
With a  production period from 1986 the to the present, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 has Caliber 3135 movement, 31 jewels and quick-set calendar function. The production of the Ref. 16610 was simultaneous with the creation of the new caliber 3135, to appear this actual model, available also in 18K yellow gold and in combination with steel and gold too. Some important characteristics of Ref. 16610 watches are their Oyster cases, Triplock bracelets, 300 mts waterproofness and synthetic sapphire glass with Cyclops magnifier over date window. A special improvement introduced by the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610 is its luminescent dial of different nature from previous models called Superluminova, which is a modern chemical composition free from extra-radioactivity.

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 16618: Gold Watch with Superluminova dial
Production period from 1986 to the present with Caliber 3135 movement, 31 jewels and quick-set calendar function. With the same characteristics of Steel watches like their Oyster cases, Triplock bracelets, 300 meters waterproofness and synthetic sapphire glass with Cyclops magnifier over date window.  The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16618 comes with a Luminescent dial of different nature from previous models called Superluminova, which is a modern chemical composition free from extra-radioactivity. One difference in Gold models is they come with two different dial and bezel colors, black and blue. The Sport Bezel of these Rolex Submariners is uni-directional rotative, anti-clockwise. So this feature on bezel makes it safety for its diving functions and it’s a difference between the Ref. 16618 watches from previous Submariners. Another special feature of the Ref. 16618 is the variety of dials, the classic black or blue with diamonds and blue sapphires and also in lapis lazuli semiprecious stone, all with Superluminova accents.

  Submariner Ref. 16618

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 14060: First Sapphire Crystal watch and Superluminova indexes
Produced in between 1988 and 2001, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 was the first with tropic glass, sapphire crystal and rotative bezel with a maximum submersion depth of 1000 feet or 300 meters. This Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 keeps the same general features on the case but its movement were improved and updated with the Caliber 3035. Dials on latest 90’s models have an inscription added at 6 marking: SWISS-T/25 means the tritium component – of luminescent markers and hands - has a different substance with close to non-radioactivity called “Superluminova”.

 

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 14060M: Updated automatic movement
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060M launched in 2001 is still being produced until today. The only difference between Ref. 14060M and its previous model is the Caliber 3130, a movement with 31 jewels and better accuracy. The last number of previous Ref. 14060-0, which indicates the material of the watch, was replaced for the letter “m”. The actual Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060M keeps the same general characteristics on dial, case and bracelet of the Submariner watches.

ROLEX Submariner Ref. 16610v: Green Anniversary Bezel
Period of production from 2004 till nowadays
This watch has Caliber 3135 movement with 31 jewels and quick-set calendar function. Some important characteristics of these watches are their Oyster cases and their Triplock bracelets. Besides, it was manufactured in order to be water resistant to 300 mts featuring a synthetic sapphire glass with a Cyclops magnifying glass over the date window. A special improvement introduced in the Rolex Submariner is its luminescent dial, which from a different nature comparing to the previous models, it is called Superluminova, a modern chemical composition free from extra-radioactivity.
The Submariner 16610V, or LV "Lunette Verde" was issued in 2004 to commemorate the 50th  anniversary of the Rolex Submariner. It is possibly the greatest diver watch ever created and, certainly, the most famous one. While initially it was thought to be a limited edition model, the 16610V or the also called 16610 LV Submariner, has remained in production since its introduction. There are only cosmetic differences between the 16610V or LV Submariner, and the regular black bezel counterpart - the bezel color, markers, and hands are the only difference. The LV Submariner uses the Rolex "Maxi Dial" large size hands and markers, first introduced on the Yacht-Master.

  Submariner Ref. 16610v Green Anniversary Bezel

New Rolex Submariner Date - Elegance and quality in a Diver’s watch

•    A new submariner based on the "supercase" used in the GMT II was presented at the 2008 Basel show. The first Submariner models offered are a yellow gold with blue face and bezel and a new white gold with blue face and bezel.
•    More recent models of the Submariner (late 2008) have a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel" known more correctly as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange"[10] (English).

Ref.         Model                                         Calibre                     Production Yrs   

6204         First Submariner                          9 3/4'" A.260             1953 - 1954
6205         First Submariner                          9 3/4"' A.260             1954 - 1955
6200          Mercedes Hands - Coroncione    10 1/2"' A.296             1954
6538         Big Crown                                  1030                          1954 - 1959
6538A       Military Submariner                     1030                          1954 - 1959
6536         Small Crown                               1030                          1955 - 1959
6536/1      Chronometer                               1030                          1955 - 1959
5508         Small Crown                               1530                          1957 - 1961
5510         Small Crown                               1530                          1958
5512         Chronometer- The Cornini             1530-1560-1570         1959 - 1978
5513         First Crown Guard                        1520-1530                 1962 - 1989
5514         Comex Submariner                      1520                           1969 - 1977
1680/8       First DATE in Yellow Gold           1575                          1969 - 1978
1680         First Submariner Date                  1575                          1969 - 1979
5517         Military Submariner                       1520                         1977
16808        DATE  Sapphire crystal Gold        3035                         1979 - 1987
16800        DATE  Transitional model             3035                          1979 - 1988
16803        DATE  Sapphire crystal SS/YG     3035                         1983 - 1988
16610        DATE  Superluminova Dial            3135                         1986** - Today
16613        DATE  Superlum. Dial SS/YG       3135                         1986** - Today
16618        DATE  Superlum. Dial Gold          3135                          1986** - Today
14060        First with Sapphire crystal            3000                          1988*- 2001
14060M     Updated Automatic Movement      3130                           2001 - Today

Current Rolex Submariner Watches and References (2008)

Reference      Model name                         Metal          Retail

14060M         Submariner (No Date)              Steel         5,300
16610             Submariner Date                   Steel           5,850
16613             Submariner Date                   SS & YG     9,050
16618             Submariner Date                   18k YG       25,250
16610LV        50th Anniversary                    Steel           6,225

Collectable Submariner Prices in AUCTIONS

The past lots hammer fall or realized prices of the most prestigious auction houses are the reference we should take to set prices of collectable or vintage timepieces. The professionals of these institutions really know how to estimate the real value of luxury timepieces. Something we need to know too is that each timepiece has its particular characteristics and condition. Another important point of review is that some references are more collecatble than others. Please don't take the following as a fixed price list, it's just a review.

Ref. 1680 Submariner (White Printing) Circa 1979
Christie's $6,785 11 May 2009 Sale 1366
Antiquorum $4,800 10 May 2009 Lot 275

Ref. 1680 Submariner (Red Printing) Circa 1972
Christie's $12,439 11 May 2009 Sale 1366
Antiquorum $10,315 10 May 2009 Lot 272

Ref. 1680/8 Submariner (Yellow Gold) Circa 1970
Christie's $18,093 11 May 2009 Sale 1366
Sotheby's $18,750 23 April 2008 Lot 149
   
Ref. 16808 Navy Blue Submariner (Yellow Gold) Circa 1987
Christie's $14,675 17 November 2008 Sale 1357
Antiquorum $12,500 10 May 2009 Lot 278

Ref. 5508 Submariner Small Crown James Bond Circa 1958
Sotheby's's $13,200 8 December 2006 Lot 303
Christie's $12,439 11 May 2009 Sale 1366

Ref. 5510 Submariner Big Crown James Bond 1950's
Sotheby's $43,750 17 October 2008 Lot 119
Christie's $115,711 12 May 2008 Sale 1353

Ref. 5512 Submariner Pointy Crown Guards Circa 1967
Christie's $17,333 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Sotheby's $30,000 17 October 2008 Lot 110

Ref. 5513 Miltary Submariner Circa 1972
Christie's $64,805 3 December 2008 Sale 2627
Christie's $37,924 11 May 2009 Sale 1366

Ref. 5513 Submariner 1970's
Christie's $8,481 11 May 2009 Sale 1366
Antiquorum $3,720 5 May 2009 Lot 359

Ref. 5514 Comex Submariner 1970's
Sotheby's $43,370 16 July 2008 Lot 17
Christie's $132,924 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Antiquorum $75,935 23 March 2009 Lot 364

Ref. 5517 British Royal Navy Submariner 1970's
Christie's $87,022 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Sotheby's $107,429 26 July 2008 Lot 16

Ref. 6200 Submariner (Big) "Brevet" crown Explorer dial - James Bond
Christie's $144,399 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Sotheby's $115,000 23 April 2008 Lot 163

Ref. 6204 Submariner James Bond (without crown guards) Circa 1950's
Sotheby's $9,476 19 December 2007 Lot 129
Christie's $21,516 12 May 2008 Sale 1353

Ref. 6204 Submariner "Lollypop seconds" M. Cal. A260 9 3/4"
Antiquorum $30,000 29 March 2009 Lot 359
Antiquorum Estimate: 16,000 USD - 21,000 USD 10 May 2009 Lot 302

Ref. 6205 Submariner Large Crown Guilt Dial Circa 1950's
Christie's $49,153 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Christie's $20,355 11 May 2009 Sale 1366

Ref. 6536 Submariner Small Crown 1960's
Sotheby's $2,760 15 June 2009 Lot 137

Ref. 6536-1 Explorer Dial (Chronometer) 1950's
Sotheby's $9,600 26 October 2005 Lot 1526

Ref. 6536-1 Chronometer James Bond 'transitional' Circa 1956
Sotheby's $12,500 19 October 2007 Lot 122

Ref. 6538 Submariner (White Print) Big Crown (without crown guards) Circa 1959
Christie's $81,284 12 May 2008 Sale 1353

Ref. 6538A Submariner Big Crown Military version
No Auctions found

Ref. 14060 First Submariner with Sapphire Crystal
Christie's $5,379 12 May 2008 Sale 1353
Sotheby's $2,183 19 December 2005 Lot 35

Ref. 16800 Transitional Model
Christie's $4,828 29 May 2008 Sale 2612
Sotheby's $4,828 13 November 2007 Lot 56