After having worked in the costume industry as  a Designer and as a Head of Wardrobe for some of the biggest theatre and dance companies in Western Canada, I feel I have a knowledge of products that I wish to share with you so you can make better choices while shopping on ebay.

One of the biggest contraversies to hit ebay is that of Crystals or Rhinestones.  I am going to take this opportunity to explain a few things and perhaps de-bunk a few myths.

First, there are varying grades of stones from each of the producers of those stones,,yes,,even the coveted Swarovski will be sold in a few different grades based on cut and brilliance.  Not every Swarovski stone is the same. Same goes for any other company that produces stones as well.  There are other companies in Austria making glass rhinestones of comparable quality and brilliance.  There are even companies in Korea and Czechoslovakia that produce glass rhinestones.  Rhinestones will come in varying colours, different finishes and even different cuts. There truly is an endless amount of info about rhinestones, info that should be compiled into a definitive book one day.

Second there is no company called "Swavorkian" as one ebay seller likes to call her rhinestones.  Although it does conjur images of a         Star Trek episode I think I saw once.

Here is the biggie.  Most stones used on western horse show clothing, dance and figure skating costumes are flat back with some sort of a mirror finish on the back to enhance reflectivity.  These stones can be attached or "set" a number of different ways. 

The first way, which is probably the most traditional in dance and skating costumes was the "tiffany setting".  Getting its name from a setting often used in jewellery making, tiffany set rhinestones are attached with a setting that is put on the back side of the fabric with "claws" coming out of the front or good side of the fabric.  A stone is individually placed within the claws and then a tool is used to "clamp" the claws around the rhinestone.  This method of setting allows all the facets of the stone to reflect light, thus utilizing the most brilliance out of your particular stone.  A drawback to this setting is that sometimes the claws can get caught on other fabrics and allow the stone to fall off and get lost, not to mention the snags it makes on other fabrics.

The second way to attach rhinestones is the "rim setting" system.  This settting is exactly as you would picture.  A metal rim surround the stone from the front side of the fabric with the "claws" coming through to the back side of the fabric.  The claws are then "clamped" using a tool, usually a hand press, than curls the claws around the fabric inside the rim set at the back.  This method is undeniably the most secure method of attaching rhinestones to fabric, hands down!!  It comes, however, with its own set of drawbacks, the first of which is the rim hides a whole lot of facets of the stone.  Less facets exposed to light equals less reflective surface to bounce light off of, limiting brilliance.  The other drawback, which happens when an inexperienced person is "creating western wear or dance costumes" is using a tool that does not "bury" or "curl"  the claws enough, causing the claws to scrape and scratch the person wearing the garment.  Those of you , who have been maimed by the ill attached rim set know how much this can hurt!!!

The third way comes in two different sections.  The first is "cold glueing" while the second is "hot glueing".  The first method of glueing stones to fabric utilizes glues that are sold exclusively for setting stones on a variety of different fabrics.  These exclusive rhinestone and jewel glues are made to withstand multiple washing and even can be put through the dryer on hot cycles.  This technology as grown immensely within the last few years and I suspect is not done growing yet.  The second of the glue method is the "hot fix" system which utilizes stones that are bought with a heat activated glue applied to the flat side of the stone.  All the major rhinestone companies are producing stones for this rapidly expanding market.  With the use of a "hot fix" applicator, one can affix rhinestones on a variety of different surfaces.  These applicator tools heat the glue to very high temperatures before the stone is place on the garment.  Be wary of companies that sell stones that they claim can be attached via a normal household Iron, this in my opinion is just not possible if you want the stones to stay put.   This method has advantages and disadvantages.  One of the disadvantages, happens with human error.  Not every fabric, leather, or vinyl surface will accept glue in either the cold or the hot attachment method.  Tests should be done before one decides to use this method.  One of the big advantages of this method is that the entire rhinestone is being used to its fullest with every facet available to work their reflective magic, often a lesser grade of hot fix rhinestone can achieve as much reflectivity as a rim set swarovski rhinestone.

I hope that this info will help people make up their minds.  I for one use each of the three methods on my clothing.  I choose the most appropriate method for the job.  I trust that ebay shoppers will appreciate my knowledge of clothing construction, decoration, and design ability to produce some amazing garments that they will love and keep for years.

Have fun and have a good day