I have frequently been asked to provide some restoration tips for vintage toys whether it's Tonka, Buddy L, Nylint, Doepke, Smith Miller, Keystone or you-name-it.

PROBLEM: "How do you get the hard rubber exhaust stack inserted into the small hole on my grader or dozer?"  RESTORATION TIP: The exhaust stack has a semicircular "bulb" tip at the bottom with a groove in it which is supposed to slip into the toy's exhaust hole.  I have found that if you will hold the semicircular end of the rubber exhaust up against a naked light bulb for about 20-30 seconds it softens the rubber enough to make it more pliable and willing to slip into the hole; you might want to wear a glove or use needlenose pliers to protect your hand.  Some people have used a hair dryer to heat up the rubber; either way you accomplish the same thing - warm up the rubber to make it more flexible.  Also try using some dishwashing detergent on the end and it will help it slip into the hole easier.  As you are pushing down on the exhaust trying to get it into the hole, twist the exhaust like you are trying to screw in a bolt; don't twist back and forth as you won't accomplish much; continue placing downward pressure and screwing it in the same direction - that should help it slip into the hole and the groove in the exhaust will hold it in place.

PROBLEM: "How do I remove the old hubcaps from my Tonka tires?"  RESTORATION TIP: Get a small flat bladed screwdriver and insert the tip of the screwdriver in your vice - bend it slightly making about a 45-90 degree angle about 1/8th inch from the end.  With this new bent-tipped screwdriver, you are able to slip the tip into the holes of your hubcaps and gently pry upward until the hubcap slips out of the retaining lip of the tire.  Don't be too aggressive, you don't want to tear the rubber on your tires.  Again, the old naked light bulb trick should help; hold the hubcap itself against the naked light bulb and the metal will heat up and hopefully aid in releasing the hubcap from the tire groove.  If you remove the hubcap slowly, you should be able to preserve the lip on the tire and insert a replacement hubcap into the old tire when the time comes.  You can add some dishwashing detergent to the edge of your hubcap to ease in its removal as well. This method also works for removing the whitewall insert of tires so equipped.

PROBLEM: "How do I insert my new or replacement hubcap into a Tonka tire?"  RESTORATION TIP: This is normally a trying experience, however here are a couple of helpful hints: first, get a box cutter or something such as an X-ACTO knife with a sharp blade and carefully slip the tip of your blade into the groove of the tire.  Be careful here, you don't want to cut yourself or damage the retaining lip of the tire.  If you will dig out the groove slightly on just one side of the tire, the new hubcap should be able to be slipped into the expanded groove far enough to let you then slip it under the retaining lip on the opposite side.  You can use your small hubcap removal tool (screwdriver you modified in the previous problem) and nudge the hubcap from the newly deepened groove into a "centered" position.  I have also found that if you warm up the tire by holding it directly against a naked lightbulb for about 60 seconds (or the previously mentioned hair dryer), this will make the rubber more pliable and willing to flex to accept the hubcap.

PROBLEM: "How do I remove the front bumper in order to strip the paint and rust off the cab prior to repainting?"  RESTORATION TIP:  This one is easy - go to Wally World, Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware and buy a Dremel tool (other brands are available such as Ryobi and they work just as well).  Using the small grinder tip, grind off the "inside" rolled over part of the rivet opposite the bumper side.  When you have the rivet ground off even with the sheetmetal, use a small drift or punch and gently tap the rivet out from the inside.  The bumper will fall off and you are ready to remove the cab for paint and rust removal.  The cab removal is super easy, Tonkas have a small tab underneath the front bumper which is bent inward to hold the cab securely to the frame.  Use a small screwdriver and slip the tip under the bent over tab and pry upward far enough to slip the tip of some needlenose pliers under the tab, then straighten the tab.  Centered at the rear of the back of the cab is a single tab that slips into a notch in the cab to hold it to the frame.  This tab is sometimes bent over or twisted.  Grab your pliers and straighten it enough to slip the cab forward off the previously straightened front bumper tabs and the center tab at the back of the cab and it can be removed from the frame.  The Dremel tool has several other applications in restoring old toys and the cost is not prohibitive; I encourage everyone to get one for your workshop.

PROBLEM: "How do I remove the old tires?" RESTORATION TIP: After following the previous tip about removal of your hubcaps, apply hand pressure inward on your tires enough to show the "peened or rolled over" end of the axle.  Now, using your newly acquired Dremel tool with the grinder attachment, gently grind off just the rolled over edge of the axle in a circular manner.  Do not grind from the end because you don't want to shorten your axle; just grind off the peened over edge around the end of the axle.  When the edge has been removed, the tires slide easily off the end of the axle. 

PROBLEM: "How do I replace my tires and use my old axle if I have ground off the peened or rolled over edge?"  RESTORATION TIP: Go to your friendly eBay store known as TONKA TOWN and buy a package of black axle nuts.  These little beauties are a God-send.  They slip over the straight end of your axle and not only hold the wheel in place but they are hidden beneath the hubcap.  Installing them is easy, just use a small open socket or nutdriver the same size as the axle nut and lightly tap them into place on the axle.  The teeth of the axle nut take a "bite" and prevent them from coming off.  NOTE: Only tap them on far enough for the axle nut to take a bite and hold the tire in place.  You don't want to drive them all the way up snug against the tire or they will prevent the tire from rolling.  In addition to holding your new tire in place they are not readily visible if someone decides to peek through a hubcap hole - they are black and blend in with the tire color.

PROBLEM: "How do I get my original bumper and grill to look more presentable without the expense of buying a new reproduction part?" RESTORATION TIP: Again, your TONKA TOWN eBay store carries a wonderful product called Simichrome Polish.  I discovered this stuff many years ago when I was restoring my first Model A Ford and was in the process of polishing the stainless headlight buckets and the radiator shell.  It is imported from Germany and is the best thing since sliced bread.  Just wrap your finger tip in a double thickness of an old t-shirt or towel and dab a tiny bit on the tip of your finger.  Rub briskly with the polish and you will be amazed at how it takes tarnish off and makes the bumper or grill look like it has been replated!  Plus you'll have bragging rights should you ever decide to list your truck for sale on eBay since you can point out that it has the original bumper and grill (not a repro).  As you rub the part you will notice your towel or t-shirt becoming blackened and that's the chemical reaction of the polish removing the old tarnish.  Move your towel or t-shirt on your finger to a clean section and continue to polish until no black shows up on your rubbing cloth.  Try it, you'll like it.

PROBLEM: "How do I remove small scratches from my original plastic windshield?"  RESTORATION TIP: Again, this may sound like a commercial for Simichrome Polish, but it works!  Apply a small dab to the end of your finger (wrapped inside a t-shirt or towel) and rub the windshield aggressively.  After polishing with Simichrome Polish, run warm tap water over the windshield to rinse it off and polish it dry. It removes small scratches and makes your windshield shine like new.  This stuff can even be used as a final polishing compound on the paint of your newly repainted Tonka or it can be used to bring out the color and shine in an old paint finish that has gone flat from the elements.

PROBLEM: "I don't own a beadblast cabinet and don't like working with caustic paint removers. How do I clean up and remove the rust and paint from an old toy that I want to repaint?"  RESTORATION TIP: Click on "See all guides by tonkatoyman" and read my "Paint and rust removal guide for old metal toys and antique car parts."  I have used that technique on literally hundreds of pressed steel trucks and antique car parts and it really works.

Restoring vintage toys can not only be lots of fun, it can be profitable if done right.  Maybe some of these tips will help you in your efforts.

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Fred Carlton ~ TonkaToyMan from Tonka Town