So you bought yourself a "Fixer Upper" Jukebox. Not to worry here are some hints and Tricks and advice to get your juke running. First I  STRONGLY recommend you get the repair manual for your jukebox read it from front to back to get familiar with your machine. These are available here on Ebay. If you cannot find the manual for your particular machine ask a seller (that has several listed if he/she has one and is willing to put it on Ebay for you [if they have it])[This has always worked for me]) You can "wing it" but I have always been of mind "I know I am going to need the manual sometime because if a part is not identifiable then I will need the manual to determine what it is" Also there are several types of manuals for each and every machine. One is the Service manual (This one is good for repairing the machine) another would be a Parts Manual (This manual is good to use for parts identification and very useful if you bought a jukebox in "Basket Case Condition.. hmm where did this part go?? LOL. This is where the parts manual fits in also some sellers sell by part number only.) Lastly there is an installation manual (These were issued when the machine was new and are not really all that useful unless you want it for collectability or need quick reference to oiling and lubrication points on your machine). First off never forget this... NEVER plug in a Jukebox with a bad power cord if it is showing wear, bare wires, crumbling insulation its a sign that its no good, if you use it it could result in a fire or you can get electrocuted. Also when testing your amplifer NEVER PLUG IT IN unless you have looked it over very carfully and insured that there is no leaking or shorted capactiors also look at the wiring an see if someone has messed with it!! I cannot stress this enough!! Power can KILL and also an exploding cpacitor is dangerous both to the body and the ears. Also inspect "Plug in cords" I am talking abut the ones that supply AC voltage. Like power cords that goto motors, amplifiers, power supplys, mechs etc. A quick test is to bend it a bit if its gummy or its brittle and in the extreme case crumbles in your hand in NEVER, ever plug it in. You could get shocked or start a fire. (Crossed wires = Danger). Just replace these.You can get cheap extension cords anywhere and these can be adapted with ease to suit your need. After you have this problem solved (or maybe your juke was ok). Next check all the fuses with a multimeter if they are bad replace them with a correct one (don't put a 5 amp fuse in a 1 amp socket again this could cause a fire or blow other parts in your jukebox. Now move on to inspecting the amplifier. If the juke has sat for anymore then 3 years without being played (with the exception if the amp has been rebuilt and your sure about it being rebuilt (you can tell visually by clean solder joints and parts that look new), PLEASE DON'T power the amp up) You could damage vacuum tubes, transistors and other vital parts in the Amplifier). Even if the seller says the amp is rebuilt examine it yourself (again the  clean parts will be a tell tale story if in fact the amp IS really rebuilt). 99% of the people I have talked to and have done what I have suggested have in fact found that the amplifier was in need of attention. You can tell yourself.. if it looks as if it was a home for Spiders and other insects then its likely it has not been rebuilt recently if ever. Also look for leaky capacitors. (These are the parts that [in some cases] have a wax coating on them) and are marked EXAMPLE .05 Mfd @ 400 Volts DC (uf or MFD means Microfarad thats the value and 400 volts DC means that it can handle 400 Volts Direct Current). You can use your finger and scratch one and the wax will come off with ease. Note that some are not wax but if you use a cheap (available on Ebay) Capacitor Tester (a excellent investment) you will know which ones to replace.(in most cases these digital capacitor testers are NOT the inline type so you will have to unsolder one side of the capacitor to get an accurate reading. If you have seen the wax drip on the side of a candle these types of capacitors will look like they have a drip on them (it will be a small dark spot) and in some cases they will have a puddle in the bottom  where there amplifier was. Lastly concerning capacitors if in DOUBT go with your gut feeling replace them all including the BIG silver can ones that are mounted on the chassis. A Great Ebayer with the nick name electricstories has a GREAT inventory of capacitor kits available for YOUR particular Jukebox at a good price! Next look for chard wiring (wiring that looks like its black) this indicates it has been subjected to alot of heat which was (in most cases) caused by a failing part (capacitor, resistor or transformer). Also look at the resistors (these are the smaller parts that have colour bands on them) These can show signs of being bad too. Look for hairline cracks and also discoloration. Don't be afraind to move them around a bit to make sure that they are not loose or cracked. If they are quesitonable again DON'T hesitate to replace them. They are VERY cheap and alot of good Ebayers have them available at all times. If you want to test a resistor you can get a meter here on Ebay for $20 or a bit more for one that will do a great job. Check the net for the resistor colour code and also note the last band (No Band {aka no colour} Gold or Silver) These are tolerances of the resistors. Next we move on to Vacuum Tubes. Its always good to have a good tester or a Friend that has a good tester. High on my list of good tube testers are the B&K 707, Jackson 648, Hickok 539B, Stark 99-6 and the TV7. All of these are great and will suit your needs if Price is a factor the Jackson 648 is your best bet. It will test most tubes and do a mutual conductance test as well. If your Jacksons chart does not cover your tube then not to worry alot of Ebayers have the other charts or books available. Now we move on the transformers if it looks like there is a tar like substance leaking from the transformer then its time to get out your multimeter and your Jukebox manual and measure the windings in the transformer. One side is the primary (this is the side that the voltage comes in [where it has the cord leading to the wall plug] measure this on the other side (this is the secondary side) see if you get a reading.. if you do it's likely still good but if you see leaking.. better to replace it. Also do this with the output transformers. (these are the smaller ones located near the speaker connections). Next check your speakers for connections and cone rot. I have seen speakers have the connections broken and also the paper cone rotted because of extreme dampness and also "critters" such as mice that took a time out from the cheese and ate the cone. This again will require repair or replacement. A band connection is as easy as soldering the connection or adding in a piece of wire or using finger nail polish to repair a small rip in the cone. If the tear is too bad then I use toilet paper soaked in nail polish and bond it to the speaker cone. (its a temp fix but works well and I have seen it work for years until I find a replacement). If your mech has a problem most of the time it is just dirt and old hardened grease (in most cases these machines have never had the original grease removed and because of its age it hardens this prevents free movement of parts that need to move freely. Take it apart and use Gum-Out or Brake Cleaner (you can get this at an automotive parts store). If you get confused on how to reassemble your mech refer to an exploded view of you mech in your parts manual. This can help alot with reassembly also you can use your digital camera and take pictures of it before you take the mech apart and print them out and use them as an aid to reassemble the mech. After the mech is clean clean all the contact "wafer type switches in the jukebox" (also refer to your manual for adjustments). Just use a business card or a burnishing file again these are easy to find to clean contacts. NEVER use sandpaper to clean a contacxt as this leaves micro sized valleys and peaks in the contact point which will later cause you headaches as it will arc at the high points and cause a bad contact.  After you have this done then re-lubricate the mech. NEVER use WD-40 as this is Kerosine based and is both flammible and also will gum up in a year or two. Use a light machine oil (not one that has Parofin wax in it) Mineral oil is best also Grease what needs to be greased. I like to use white grease where I know there are parts that are known to bind and come into Heavy use. Again refer to your manual on points that need lubrication if you lubricate and point that is not supposed to be greased this can cause you troubles. On Rockola's make sure that write in and write out coil arms are free to move if not clean them and they should be fine if not check with your multimeter to see if your getting a reading if not they are bad and replace them. On Seeburgs make sure the clutch (located behind the motor) is not sticking and can move up and down. (when you have the mech off its rails this is the best time to do it since you really cannot get at it any other way). AMI's are pretty standard and easy to get at once you remove the entire mech from the machine. The big issue with later AMI's such as the model J and model K, Continental 1 and 2 is to make sure the carridge alignment is correct and also the blade wipers are adjusted correctly. Make sure all the pins on the pin bank that the rear of the machine are free to move in and out. If they are binding because of lack of lubrication or binding because of old grease this can cause the machine not to select that record. Use De-Oxit DP-5 to work all the pins free. At this time you might want to clean your selector switches..(spray all your selector switches and work then back and forth) I recomment De-Oxit DP5 made by Caig. This stuff is.... a MIRACLE in a can.. I cannot stress enough how good this is. It cleans protects and de-oxidizes all controls and switches and contacts it's simply put the BEST! Also put in a new needle (at the least and maybe a Cartridge with new needle) this will make your juke sound great and protect your records. Needles (aka Stylus) are cheap and will give you thousands of flawless plays. Lastly some of the  products and tools you will need are the following: Good Soldering Iron (I prefer a good 150 watt Weller, Solder, Novus (Plastic Polish for those finishing touches), De-Oxit DP5 by Caig, Q-Tips, Toothbrush  (for cleaning), Needle Nose plyers, Scewdrivers (of various sorts), Side Cutters, Oil, Brake Cleaner and Spray Nine (Spray Nine is a Heaven Sent.. works great to degrease and get off Cigarette smoke!) I hope this Guide helps you get your Juke working and if it doesn't drop me an Email! Happy Juke'n