What underclothing, if any, did women wear in early Europe and the Renaissance? There are two basic undergarments: The Underdress and the Chemise. The underdress was worn from basically pre-historic times in Europe when it may have been as simple as roughly woven plant fibers, such as linen, under fur or tanned hide. As we come toward the 400's-600's (or Society For Creative Anachronism start Periods) it became a woven garment from neck to knee or ankle and with different length sleeves, some an open bell to elbow or wrist, other that fit tighter to wrist. It sometimes had patterns woven into the fabric and the Early Celts, or Irish, even has a "checky" plaid woven in. It was woven from linen or flax---cotton was very late into the Chemise Period, silk somewhat in between.

As we get into the 1100's to 1300's we begin to see a sleeve fitted tightly to forearm, sometimes it was even laced or buttoned under the forearm for tightness. Different garments were then worn over the Underdress which varied in length from under knee to ankle.

There is a change from Underdress to Chemise in roughly Pre-Renaissance times 1300's to 1400's---this happened in different countries at different times.  The difference between a Chemise and an Underdress is the fullness of the body and the sleeve of the Chemise---it had "Poofy "Sleeves instead of tight. A Chemise is much like a "Granny" Nightgown today---which explains why so many SCA women sleep in them at Events! The neck was gathered onto a drawstring or ribbon in Period times---as were the wrist gathers. These were white or off white in Period, but today as a "Anachronism" in the SCA they come in colors and with "Angel Wing" sleeves.

At this time a garment came into use OVER the chemise that was the start of an item known today as the "Bra". It was called a "Bodyss" or Bodice today.

Another convention of the modern SCA is the use of elastic at neck and wrist of the modern chemise---this allows one to pull the neck of the chemise down the arms if the weather heats up during the day AND allows for the bountiful displays of cleavage (also called "Bustage") the SCA is famous for! The Bodice provides the "Liftage"!

I personally keep my Chemises white or off-white due to the mud that I drag through at Events---they can then be bleached!

This confusion between when to wear a Underdress or when to wear a Chemise is the Most Common Beginner Mistake in the SCA or the Renn Faire Circuit.