If you're looking to purchase a bit of garb from the 15th - 16th century, you might find this info helpful.  This is sort-of a common Q and A that I've put together from my clients and bidders over the years. Hope it helps :)

--Frankie (welldressedlady)

Q: What's the right size bodice for me?

A:  Most costumers will tell you that you should look for something that's two to three inches smaller than your actual measurements.  So, if you're a 36 bust, 32 waist, a bodice that's 34/30 will fit you great. HOWEVER...the smaller the bodice, the more "squish" you should be expect, and the more you'll look forward to getting the darn thing off at the end of the day.  If you're going to be participating in a faire or similar event for 8 hours or more, you might prefer a bodice that's only one inch smaller all around.  You should also keep in mind that your measurements will change after a big meal (or "feast"), so a back or side lacing bodice with a modesty panel will allow you to relax those laces a bit while your food digests.  If you're a very small lady, then really you don't have much to squish -- your rib cage ain't movin' no matter how much you tug on those laces! -- so you should also aim for something close to your actual measures.  Finally, beware of taking your measures during menstrual times... we all know what happens to our figures that week....

Q:  What type of bodice is historically accurate?

A: Well, that's a big question to answer, but here are a few things to keep in mind.  First of all, they didn't have princess seams or grommets. Princess seams are the seams between your front center and side seams (or back center and side seams). The often curve towards the arm opening or to the shoulder, but in general they show off your curves in a very non-period way.  During Tudor and Elizabethan times, ladies tried to flatten and lift the chest.  This was accomplished by using just side seams or side-back seams in the bodice.

Now almost every seller on ebay (including myself) uses grommets even though we all know they're not quite right.  To be frank, they're just easy to use/install and most everyone turns a blind eye at them. However, if you really want to go for gold, you can request that your seamstress use lacing rings OR you can embroider over the grommets with embroidery thread to cover them up.  Grommets DO eventually tear out, so I myself prefer lacing rings on my gowns. 

Regarding construction, please keep in mind that all bodices would have been worn over a corset. The corset was often a strapless garment, but I have never seen a bodice that did not have shoulder straps.  Most sellers will build in enough boning to your bodice that you don't actually need to wear a separate corset, but the strapless bodices are really NOT true to period.  Many bodices also have shoulder rolls, loops, or taps at the waist, etc. This is all good. It was also quite common to have trim and jewels applied to the bodice.  Italian bodices were very straight across the front, compared to the Elizabethan bodices which often dipped quite low in the front. (The Spanish adopted something in between I think).

Q:  What type of fabric/materials should I look for in my garb?

A:  Velvet, velveteen, silk (dupioni), linen, brocades and damask with relatively large patterns.  Also look for trims with geometric shapes (not large sweeping or circular patterns).  Cotton is controverisal I think, it is a "new world" fabric if you really think about it :)  Make sure your bodice is lined or interlined  with canvas or duck cloth, this keeps it from sliding up to your neck when you cinch it up.  Also ask your seamstress to use steel boning -- plastic boning just doesn't hold it's shape over time.

Q:  What kinds of skirts should I purchase?

A:  During the day, they would have pleated their skirts into a waistband.  With that said, an A-line skirt with an elastic waistband can usually pass if the material is lightweight.  If you're going to purchase an overskirt (usually split in the front to reveal an underskirt), there are two types of pleats you should aim for:  cartridge (by far the most common), or knife.  "Gathering" is a modern technique and was not used during Renaissance times. Some seamstresses will attach the skirt to the bodice, but all evidence I've seen suggests that was not the common practice.

Q:  What about sleeves?

A:  Sleeves were considered "accessories" during this time.  It's not uncommon for a seamstress to spend many more hours working on the slashes, puffs, and beading of sleeves then she does on the gown itself. Ladies would often switch their sleeves among gowns just like you would with a purse.  This was easy to do because almost all sleeves tied onto the gown via lacing rings.  If you plan to attend "court" or if you are a high-ranking lady, you certainly wouldn't want to be seen without your sleeves.  If you find a gown that you like, ask your seamstress if she can add sleeves!

Q:  What accessories should I purchase?

A:  At the very least you'll need a good chemise/camica/smock to wear under your bodice.  This was typically a linen undergarment that was worn often at night as well.  A light-weight muslin (more modern version) of this usually works well as it isn't really seen if you're wearing sleeves.  I would also suggest a hoop slip and bumroll.  Make sure to take your measurements with these items ON if you plan to purchase a gown or skirt from an ebay seller.  Finally, a lady would have a nice hat or something to cover her head.  These are not as easy to come by, but I often reseve my scrap fabric to have a hat made which matches my gown.

If you have questions regarding this discussion, please feel free to message me via ebays message system!